OP
Converting manual snowblower chute to hydraulic
- Thread starter PineRidge
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PineRidge
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OP
PineRidge
Super Member
Henro
Super Member
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- Few miles north of Pgh, PA
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- Kubota B2910, BX2200, KX41-2V mini EX
Pineridge,
Nice project. Can't wait to hear how that motor works.
I must say I am a bit shocked at seeing all those quick disconnects where they are! Only because when I put mine in a similar position (well not all, but four of them) I discovered that when I tilted my 3PH, the top link cylinder, since it shifts left and right with tilt, wanted to push the disconnects out of the way. So I had to move them to a different location... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
Your project looks great! Keep the progress reports coming!
Nice project. Can't wait to hear how that motor works.
I must say I am a bit shocked at seeing all those quick disconnects where they are! Only because when I put mine in a similar position (well not all, but four of them) I discovered that when I tilted my 3PH, the top link cylinder, since it shifts left and right with tilt, wanted to push the disconnects out of the way. So I had to move them to a different location... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
Your project looks great! Keep the progress reports coming!
OP
PineRidge
Super Member
This shot is basically just from another angle showing the completed project.
Once we fired up the New Holland and bled the air from the hydraulic lines the chute started to move but it was way to fast to suit us. We started throttling the two flow control vales down and we are very pleased to report that we can make the chute travel at any speed that we need. From a crawl to flat out spinning. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
We also deliberately ran the hydraulic motor past the travel of the snowblower chute rotation and our make shift clutch seemed to perform just as we expected. It is also very easy to tighten down on the stainless clamps to prevent any slipping but we think in this case a little is better in the extreme ends of the travel than none at all.
We really do not see any foreseeable problems since we have the rotation adjusted where it is easily controlled by one of our 3 rear remotes. We hope this project helps any of you that may be thinking of adding hydraulic assist to your own snowblower. We are also sure that you can pick up the majority of your materials from eBay and some of the other discount suppliers that we mentioned in our earlier posts and still save a few dollars in the process.
Once we fired up the New Holland and bled the air from the hydraulic lines the chute started to move but it was way to fast to suit us. We started throttling the two flow control vales down and we are very pleased to report that we can make the chute travel at any speed that we need. From a crawl to flat out spinning. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
We also deliberately ran the hydraulic motor past the travel of the snowblower chute rotation and our make shift clutch seemed to perform just as we expected. It is also very easy to tighten down on the stainless clamps to prevent any slipping but we think in this case a little is better in the extreme ends of the travel than none at all.
We really do not see any foreseeable problems since we have the rotation adjusted where it is easily controlled by one of our 3 rear remotes. We hope this project helps any of you that may be thinking of adding hydraulic assist to your own snowblower. We are also sure that you can pick up the majority of your materials from eBay and some of the other discount suppliers that we mentioned in our earlier posts and still save a few dollars in the process.
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PineRidge
Super Member
Henro thanks for the compliement. We were really expecting problems with the motor but that never materialized. the process was smooth from start to finish, I even surprized myself. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
The arrangement of the quick connects is stock for New Holland's 35 through 45 HP ranges on the Class IIIs. The only time we experienced any problems was when our T&T hoses were 60" as they were always getting tangled in everything and anything. We have had no problems since we had them shortended to the proper lengths.
BTW Your friends treated us well on the hoses and they were delivered very quickly, thanks for the tip!
The arrangement of the quick connects is stock for New Holland's 35 through 45 HP ranges on the Class IIIs. The only time we experienced any problems was when our T&T hoses were 60" as they were always getting tangled in everything and anything. We have had no problems since we had them shortended to the proper lengths.
BTW Your friends treated us well on the hoses and they were delivered very quickly, thanks for the tip!
Henro
Super Member
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- Few miles north of Pgh, PA
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<font color="blue"> BTW Your friends treated us well on the hoses and they were delivered very quickly, thanks for the tip! </font>
Pinridge,
Glad to hear everying came together as planned/expected!
I guess the guys at the hose/fitting place should be consider all of our friends as long as they perform as we expect. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Like others here I am just a customer though...so I would not want to give the impression that there is any more than that. I have been satisified with the service this vendor provides without question. Glad they served you well. In a different thread MadRef said he received hoses with the wrong ends on them today. Will be interesting to see how they correct the problem
I can say I had an issue with a damaged hose and some wrong fittings being sent, and that they corrected the problem and paid shipping boths ways to make it right.
Glad your project came together as expected...I'm not surprised it did though! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Pinridge,
Glad to hear everying came together as planned/expected!
I guess the guys at the hose/fitting place should be consider all of our friends as long as they perform as we expect. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Like others here I am just a customer though...so I would not want to give the impression that there is any more than that. I have been satisified with the service this vendor provides without question. Glad they served you well. In a different thread MadRef said he received hoses with the wrong ends on them today. Will be interesting to see how they correct the problem
I can say I had an issue with a damaged hose and some wrong fittings being sent, and that they corrected the problem and paid shipping boths ways to make it right.
Glad your project came together as expected...I'm not surprised it did though! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
rswyan
Super Star Member
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Mike,
Looks sweet - great job !
Looks sweet - great job !
PILOON
Super Star Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Thanks, I too have been looking at purchasing a motor for the same reason, but there are a lot of those
My answer was to use an electric wheelchair motor which was a reduction 90deg gearbox affair.
I fitted a small (about 12 or 14 tooth) sprocket and wrapped a mating chain around the chute.
While the motor was actually 24 volts it rund great on 12 v.
A simple spring loaded, center off DPDT switch controls the motor.
Much easier to route wires than hoses!
Used it all last winter and was very pleased to find that it could free itself from accumulated frozen snow and ice effortlessly.
Baring being able to locate a similar motor, I would believe that the cheap import winches sold on EBay for $39.00 would
do the tric quite well with a bid of modifying.
Heck they even provide the reversing switch!
My answer was to use an electric wheelchair motor which was a reduction 90deg gearbox affair.
I fitted a small (about 12 or 14 tooth) sprocket and wrapped a mating chain around the chute.
While the motor was actually 24 volts it rund great on 12 v.
A simple spring loaded, center off DPDT switch controls the motor.
Much easier to route wires than hoses!
Used it all last winter and was very pleased to find that it could free itself from accumulated frozen snow and ice effortlessly.
Baring being able to locate a similar motor, I would believe that the cheap import winches sold on EBay for $39.00 would
do the tric quite well with a bid of modifying.
Heck they even provide the reversing switch!
OP
PineRidge
Super Member
Piloon we also thought about the idea of the electric operated motor. Junkman first suggested to us that we use a simple motor assembly normally used for power windows in an auto.
But since we already had rear remotes we were thinking that hydraulic lines with quick couplers were still easier to attach than messing with the electrical system of the tractor itself. We were also concerned about moisture problems with the electric motor since a window mechanism is normally protected somewhat within the door skin itself.
It's still interesting to see that there is more than one option and we're happy that your solution has actually been proved for your application. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
But since we already had rear remotes we were thinking that hydraulic lines with quick couplers were still easier to attach than messing with the electrical system of the tractor itself. We were also concerned about moisture problems with the electric motor since a window mechanism is normally protected somewhat within the door skin itself.
It's still interesting to see that there is more than one option and we're happy that your solution has actually been proved for your application. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
Junkman
Super Member
Mike...... Do you need to hold a Master Plumbers degree to know where all those lines go and to install them properly????? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
OP
PineRidge
Super Member
Well Junk my wife must think I'm a Master Plumber cause she keeps handing me the toilet plunger. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
JDFANATIC
Veteran Member
PineRidge,
Not taking anything away from your ingenuity, but the chute on my JD blower operates off of a hydraulically operated cylinder that actuates a cable by its action that is wrapped around the chute. It requires two couplers and since I use it on the front of my tractor, it uses the side-to-side detents on the loader joystick. If anyone is interested, I can post some pics. That said, this has got to be one of the handiest things to have while blowing snow. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
Not taking anything away from your ingenuity, but the chute on my JD blower operates off of a hydraulically operated cylinder that actuates a cable by its action that is wrapped around the chute. It requires two couplers and since I use it on the front of my tractor, it uses the side-to-side detents on the loader joystick. If anyone is interested, I can post some pics. That said, this has got to be one of the handiest things to have while blowing snow. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
OP
PineRidge
Super Member
ALL ideas are welcome. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Pks
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For what it might be worth:
One thing to pay attention to is how the flow controls are configured with relation to system pressure going into the motor and the flow and pressure (or lack there of) leaving the motor.
When controlling motors with flow controls, control the flow going into the motor. This is known as upstream flow control. That way if your pump can supply 20 GPM, the flow control that is upstream of the motor will act as a limit to the oil entering the motor and reduce the flow to say 5 GPM. Thus slowing the motor's operation. The key here is that the oil entering the motor is limited.
If the flow control limits how fast (GPM) the oil leaves the motor, a pressure backup will exist at the output port and within various motor seals. This output port back pressure will damage most motors. If that pressure is not carefully monitored or if you don't know what the motor can handle, then the motor may (most likely according to some texts I've read recently) become damaged.
One thing to pay attention to is how the flow controls are configured with relation to system pressure going into the motor and the flow and pressure (or lack there of) leaving the motor.
When controlling motors with flow controls, control the flow going into the motor. This is known as upstream flow control. That way if your pump can supply 20 GPM, the flow control that is upstream of the motor will act as a limit to the oil entering the motor and reduce the flow to say 5 GPM. Thus slowing the motor's operation. The key here is that the oil entering the motor is limited.
If the flow control limits how fast (GPM) the oil leaves the motor, a pressure backup will exist at the output port and within various motor seals. This output port back pressure will damage most motors. If that pressure is not carefully monitored or if you don't know what the motor can handle, then the motor may (most likely according to some texts I've read recently) become damaged.
kennyd
Advertiser
Peter,
Your explanation makes perfect sense, however, in theory could only be applied to a motor that is only going to turn one way. Mike's setup needs the motor to turn both ways, so the pressure and return are always changing.
I can understand that if a motor was running all day like you described how damage could be done, but with the intermitent use this motor will see I can't see where there will be a problem.
Your explanation makes perfect sense, however, in theory could only be applied to a motor that is only going to turn one way. Mike's setup needs the motor to turn both ways, so the pressure and return are always changing.
I can understand that if a motor was running all day like you described how damage could be done, but with the intermitent use this motor will see I can't see where there will be a problem.
OP
PineRidge
Super Member
<font color="blue">If the flow control limits how fast (GPM) the oil leaves the motor, a pressure backup will exist at the output port and within various motor seals. This output port back pressure will damage most motors. If that pressure is not carefully monitored or if you don't know what the motor can handle, then the motor may (most likely according to some texts I've read recently) become damaged.
</font>
Peter the reason we used the flow control valves that we chose were that each valve only limits the flow in one direction only, that is toward the motor itself. The hydraulic oil leaving the motor lifts the check in the other flow control valve so that there is no restriction on the return leg of the motor whatsoever. It's always as though there is only one flow control valve on the inlet side of the motor regardless of which way that it is needing to turn. It's a very basic hydraulic circuit.
</font>
Peter the reason we used the flow control valves that we chose were that each valve only limits the flow in one direction only, that is toward the motor itself. The hydraulic oil leaving the motor lifts the check in the other flow control valve so that there is no restriction on the return leg of the motor whatsoever. It's always as though there is only one flow control valve on the inlet side of the motor regardless of which way that it is needing to turn. It's a very basic hydraulic circuit.
