Converting this Huskee 22 ton log splitter to electric

[Texasmark]

Most motors today run around 85% efficiency... at least the ones I read specs on.

The current method of determining hp is what is referred to as "locked rotor" rating. As previously stated. The point where the voltage starts to fall off drastically and the current spikes....bam they get max voltage and max current (for a split second) and multiplying and all get hp. Has nothing to do with real usable hp. Just more marketing hype to charge more and supply less.

On comparing weights, I have a 1/3 hp motor my grand dad gave me when I was young. It is about 12" in diameter and weighs about 50#. Motors have come a long way and not all are made from the same components, especially any magnetic parts.

The fact that I see two humps on top of the motor tells me it is a capacitor start....aka starts under load easily and capacitor run, meaning it balances the inductance for a PF of around 1 while supplying high current. Being compressor rated also tells me that the motor is either series or compound wound which deliver high torque.

Again, the high pressure/high current demand is just a spike for just a second and the normal stress on the motor is otherwise minimal. Idle running current is just a fraction of full load current so cost to run is nothing.

Running a 3 hp motor would be akin to about 2.2 kW if running at full load. Ok so you leave the motor running at full load current for a full hour and at the 11 cents per kWH I pay for electricity, that would have cost me about 2 bits (25c). Man that's going to break the bank! Ha! But it doesn't run at rated current for the full hour, but just a second per log. So it won't cost that much. Gimme a break.

Mark

 

[LD1]

Most motors today run around 85% efficiency... at least the ones I read specs on.

I would agree with you on 3 phase motors. But most smaller single phase motors are lucky to get 80%

The current method of determining hp is what is referred to as "locked rotor" rating.

Any sources or links to back that up??

With the exception of these compressor motors that have "special" or "SPL" next to the HP rating, All of the motors I have ever seen (now and in the past), the HP rating matches almost exactally the calculation of Volts x Amps, Divided by 746. times efficiency.

That Leeson 20.8A at 230v and 80% efficient comes out to 5.13HP. Certainly aint figuring locked rotor current.

On comparing weights, I have a 1/3 hp motor my grand dad gave me when I was young. It is about 12" in diameter and weighs about 50#. Motors have come a long way and not all are made from the same components, especially any magnetic parts.

Comparing old to new has little to do with the comparison I am making. Cause BOTH motors are new, and both "claim" to be 5HP. While one only weighs half as much, and pulls far fewer amps.

Running a 3 hp motor would be akin to about 2.2 kW if running at full load. Ok so you leave the motor running at full load current for a full hour and at the 11 cents per kWH I pay for electricity, that would have cost me about 2 bits (25c). Man that's going to break the bank! Ha! But it doesn't run at rated current for the full hour, but just a second per log. So it won't cost that much. Gimme a break.

Mark

Unless I missed it somewhere, I dont think anyone in this thread saying anything about costing alot to run. It certainly is cheaper, which was one of the reasons I converted.

 

[ajmaxham]

I found a TEFC motor on ebay for $499.00 from PTJ Industrial (enter 131549 Leeson).

It is a 131549.00 5hp Lesson Electric Motor 3450RPM TEFC

F.L. Amps 19.8 - S.F. Amps 23 - S.F. 1.15 - continuous duty - 82.5 efficient - Motor Wt. 96LB - no overload protection.

With this motor I would get the Motor Control for a 5 HP motor (start stop reset) about $114.00.

It would make very good motor for your electric conversion.

 

[Texasmark]

I would agree with you on 3 phase motors. But most smaller single phase motors are lucky to get 80%



Any sources or links to back that up??

With the exception of these compressor motors that have "special" or "SPL" next to the HP rating, All of the motors I have ever seen (now and in the past), the HP rating matches almost exactally the calculation of Volts x Amps, Divided by 746. times efficiency.

That Leeson 20.8A at 230v and 80% efficient comes out to 5.13HP. Certainly aint figuring locked rotor current.



Comparing old to new has little to do with the comparison I am making. Cause BOTH motors are new, and both "claim" to be 5HP. While one only weighs half as much, and pulls far fewer amps.




Unless I missed it somewhere, I dont think anyone in this thread saying anything about costing alot to run. It certainly is cheaper, which was one of the reasons I converted.

WW Grainger (started out as an electric motor supplier) catalog on how motors are rated today and efficiencies. As stated somewhere on this thread, do the math and the 5 hp your vacuum cleaner is supposed to put out on 115v with a 20' 16 gauge wire just doesn't get it.

On cost to run it was in the thread somewhere otherwise I wouldn't have made a comment. I'm not going to do the research!

I didn't do the math on the verbiage about what is claimed to be a 5 is really only a 3. I just went with the 3 and elaborated.

So, what's the point? Where are we headed with this? Is this a "my 4wd monster truck" is bigger than yours?

 

[Steve_Miller]

Don't be fooled by HP ratings, they can be deceiving. Some manufacturers will rate HP as continuous, peak or stall and these are very different. Compare it to generators (in watts) or compressors (in HP) ratings that some companies use, the bigger the number the more impressive it becomes although continuous would be a better number to see. Service factor and duty cycle of a motor can also be things to watch for. Overload protection (not fuses) if matched to the motor can save you your motor but it won't be cheap either. There are several classes of motor protection as well, class 10, 20 & 30 to name a few basic ones. Efficiency ratings of a motor are mostly when the motor is running at or near full load, as the motor loading drops off so does efficiency. Matching your motor HP with the hydraulic pump flow and adjusting your pressure relief settings to allow the motor to max out at relief will go a long way in longevity. Believe it or not there is engineering that goes into designing a system, we may not call ourselves engineers but a lot of things that are discussed on projects like these are just that. My two cents for what it is worth. Just for a tidbit of info, out of an ordinary 15 amp wall outlet, the most you can likely get would be 1 HP and that is pushing it. Another tidbit, when you get down to 2 HP and below it is hard to use the amps X volts / 746watt = HP as they are less efficient than larger motors.

Steve

 

[LD1]

WW Grainger (started out as an electric motor supplier) catalog on how motors are rated today and efficiencies. As stated somewhere on this thread, do the math and the 5 hp your vacuum cleaner is supposed to put out on 115v with a 20' 16 gauge wire just doesn't get it.

I agree with you on items like mentioned that "have" an electric motor. Vacuums, shop vacs, power tools in general, etc. All are fudged. But actually buying an electric motor, of good quality/brand, the HP rating on the nameplate is typically the good honest working HP with the only exception I have found being compressor motors. And those usually have a SP, SPL, or special after the HP rating.

On cost to run it was in the thread somewhere otherwise I wouldn't have made a comment. I'm not going to do the research!

Good chance I missed it then. I know it wasnt me. In about 99.9% of times, if you can replace a gas motor with an electric, it will be cheaper to run.

So, what's the point? Where are we headed with this? Is this a "my 4wd monster truck" is bigger than yours?

Good Question. I dont know where this is headed.

my posting to this thread is just trying to clear up some mis information that has been given so the OP can make an informed decision based on good info instead of bad. Someone earlier listed a motor that "should" work and it was a 15A compressor motor. Sure it is cheap, but wont hold up long term. I posted why, and that it isnt truly a 5hp. If this thread stopped after that thread, the OP would be thinking he could spend $200 and have an adequate motor for the long haul and be none-the-wiser.

My last post quoting you wasnt meant to be confrontational or hostile. I deal with alot of electric motors say to day. Bout the only time I see efficiency ratings over 80% is 3 phase. So I was just clarifying that. And the comment about motors being rated as locked rotor, again, just trying to get clarification. Cause if you are looking at a leeson, baldor, GE, reliance, etc. And buying an actual motor with a nameplate. They certainly arent figuring the HP as locked rotor. But the power tools and vacuums earlier mentioned....I agree with you.

 

[bcp]

In about 99.9% of times, if you can replace a gas motor with an electric, it will be cheaper to run.

Over the years, I've probably spent the cost of a new motor in carb parts and rebuild time. But I've never spent a cent yet to rebuild a carb on an electric motor.

Bruce

 

[LD1]

Over the years, I've probably spent the cost of a new motor in carb parts and rebuild time. But I've never spent a cent yet to rebuild a carb on an electric motor.

Bruce

Yea, but how much is it costing ya annually to change the oil and filter in that electric motor....:laughing:

 

[franklin2]

Yes I am using a 3. Not sure what you are calling out though. I disclosed all of the info and why I am using it.the pump at max pressure draws 11amp on three phase. Granted, it don't happen much when splitting, but the unit is still capable of of burning up my 8amp rated motor. But given that I have a ton of them, big deal.

But if I was doing it from scratch, and buying a motor, AND wanted it to last, I would get an actual 5hp motor.

But hey, it ain't my money. But you get what you pay for.

I appreciate the info that the motor I linked to was not really a genuine 5hp motor. But what I didn't understand is why you never said it would be "good enough" since you said you used a 3 hp motor, and the motor I linked to could reliably only supply around 3 hp. Considering the intermittent loading in this application, and if he puts a micro switch and a contactor on it, it would not even be running 100% of the time, wouldn't this motor serve the desired purpose?

I also am thinking anyone on here who builds their own stuff, is not going to run the ram to the end of it's stroke and hold it till the motor burns up, or actually hold it into a piece of wood very long if it's not making any progress. Just trying to balance theory with real world practice and of course cost plays a big part.

 

[Texasmark]

On cost of the project, I had an old riding lawn mower and a 4 x 24 cylinder driven splitter I designed and built.....wedge/knife took 4 iterations before I got it where it really worked well. I had the engine, the frame, wheels to roll it about, and the splitter. Geez all I had to do was to get a pump and hook it up to the engine. Walk in the park. Yeah right!

Well, about $500 later I got what I wanted. Things just kept coming op that were required. However, I have a slick unit now that does what I want, don't have to get the tractor out to run it, runs unloaded 7 sec. out, 6 back and sits at ground level.

Not that anybody is interested since this is an electrically driven question, but I do have some pics. Just a little effort to get the chip out of the camera and work through the posting process.

Mark