Converting to wood heat....getting cold feet..

   / Converting to wood heat....getting cold feet.. #31  
Looks very interesting. What would one expect to pay for a Tarm "Warmth Machine" Thanks for the link. I'm going to get some info from them.
 
   / Converting to wood heat....getting cold feet..
  • Thread Starter
#32  
OK guys, thanks for all the info...unfortunately, I had to put my purchase on hold when I discovered I don't have an extra flue in my chimney...there were two thimbles, but both went into a single flue, which is a no-no in Massachusetts at least....

So, since adding a new masonary chimney anytime soon is out of the question, I need to regroup and make a new plan...

I did find out from my insurance co, that there is no problem or increase in premium for a wood system, as long as it is properly installed and inspected (hence the single flue problem)...

Anyway, now I need to reconsider an outside unit, which has obvious benefits; unfortunately, the only ones I have ever seen are the most god-awful smoky messes...not very enticing.

Also need to look into a duel fuel unit; that way I could use the single flue and have the benefits of oil/wood in one device, with one chimney...

Oh well..hope I can find some use for the 15 or so cords of wood I felled, cut, split and stacked....
 
   / Converting to wood heat....getting cold feet.. #33  
Is the value of dry firewood about $200 per cord in your area? That would be one use for it, and the $$ could go toward an outside unit.

Many that burn wood in outside units burn wood that is not dry (dry to me is cut to 18" length, split to less than 8" thick, and kept dry under waterproof cover for at least 3 years!). But, many around here just cut in the summer and burn that winter, meaning most of the wood energy goes to boiling out the moisture, and makes for a lot of steam, creosote, and smoke.

Inefficient to me, but anyone can do as they like best.
 
   / Converting to wood heat....getting cold feet.. #34  
Without a doubt, if it emits over a certain number of grams per hour, it is not allowed here in California. They have gotten pretty tight on meeting EPA requirements. Open fireplaces indoors are no longer allowed. With the exception of Regency, almost all indoor wood burning products have catalytic converters.
 
   / Converting to wood heat....getting cold feet.. #35  
</font><font color="blueclass=small">( OK guys, thanks for all the info...unfortunately, I had to put my purchase on hold when I discovered I don't have an extra flue in my chimney...there were two thimbles, but both went into a single flue, which is a no-no in Massachusetts at least....

)</font>

Someone should have told that to my father in law when he was alive. His old woodstove is piped right into the furnace pipe using a T fitting. He used that stove for many years with no problems. Last year I used the woodstove it to thaw out the furnace after it quit running during a very cold spell. The heat from it thawed the pipes out also. My mother's house also has a two thimble system single chimney with an oil fired furnace and wood stove. That house was built in 1952 and still uses both oil and wood to heat the house. So what is the big deal about seperate flues if the system works fine? I think the insurance companies are scamming people out of their hard earned dollars.
 
   / Converting to wood heat....getting cold feet.. #36  
Jim, I imagine it's all based on statistics. Do you have the option to buy earthquake insurance? Here in California it is an option. If we don't buy it, I suppose that we are betting that there will not be a earthquake capable of destroying our home or that the Federal government will provide us with assistance. Same for Florida and perhaps even more so in light of things regarding hurricance insurance. If your mothers home is paid for, she could opt or decide not to have any insurance. If the house burnt down due to a chimmney fire, she certainly would be have second thoughts about the extra premium. It's all a gamble. It's all based on statictics.
 
   / Converting to wood heat....getting cold feet.. #37  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Do you have any sample pricing on the tarm units? Couldn't find any on the website. )</font>

Yes I do - from what I recall off the top of my head the base unit (without any heat storage tanks) is in the $4K to $6K range depending on the size of the unit.

Give me a few hours and I'll dig up the exact numbers from the quote I got (I have to run out this morning for awhile)
 
   / Converting to wood heat....getting cold feet.. #38  
I picked up abrochure from TARM at the local fair, it is at my house though (at my GF's place again /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif ) anyhwo it was smaller than the standard utdoor wood stove as it was lined with fire brick on the bottom... not sure how the water is heatd that way if much of the heat is absorbed by the fire brick!?!? not sure how they get the much hotter temps, unless they are making it a STEAM BOILER. the brochure didn't have much info at all. like the web site not much there.

I like to see how they work, adn then I can visualize it's usefull workings and KNOW more about it... maybe the unit I saw was for show only? as it wasn't much bigger than a standard fire box. Surely would not last more than a few hrs between stokings... UNLESS it was a corn stove and I simply didn't notice it, (woman didn't let me stop and see much, as it was last day of fair and SHE had to eat!) I managed to snatch a brochure which was laying down by the side of it as she drug me off... next fair (next weekend) I'll get a better chance to LOOK it over. also maybe ask some questions. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Mark M
 
   / Converting to wood heat....getting cold feet.. #39  
rswyan and ejb,

I looked into the Tarm wood boilers. I stayed out of this thread until I found the info from Tarm. I found it tonight. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif I thought I looked at this early in the year but the price list I have is from 3/15/2003. Yikes! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I like the Tarm units. We looked at having radiant flooring in the new house and the thought of a Tarm unit sound real good. But for our climate it just did not make money sense to put in the radiant flooring. The really nice thing about the Tarm is that it stores the heat from the burn in a water tank. This way you can limit the number of fires you need and you could burn them in the most efficient manner. The water was then used in the floor and/or hot water requirements in the house. The bad thing is that you have to have a water tank to store the heat. The tanks are pretty big, 415 to 1550 gallons. 48 inches tall and up to 96" inches in diamter. We did not have room for the tanks either. They do make custom sizes.

They have a couple of different models. The Exell 200/2200 are Wood and oil/gas boils that cost $7,895/8,995. There is the Solo units run #3,195 to 5,495.

If we where in a colder climate I think we would put one of these units in the house.

Hope this helps,
Dan McCarty
 
   / Converting to wood heat....getting cold feet.. #40  
The TARM site has more info on the questions you asked. You have to do a little digging.
 

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