Coolant Temperature Sensor

[minidozer]

Will be replacing my thermostat this year when I do my annual maintenance and would also like to replace the coolant temperature sensor. My engine is a TY395T manufactured in 2002.5.
Has anyone sourced a sensor that can be purchased in an auto parts store?

 

[Loadstar]

Couldn't you just ohm it out and verify it's in range. Just a thought.

 

[minidozer]

Loadstar,

Temperature guage has never worked properly. Guage does move slightly when using dozer but when I lost my fan/alt belt and the engine overheated, temperature guage never showed a problem. Changing the sensor seemed to me to be the logical first step.

 

[Loadstar]

I see and agree might give the gage a test also.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Your thermostat, gauge, and sending unit are probably fine. The real issue is that the themostat is not installed in a way to let it work. See this recent thread. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...stalling-thermostat-jinma-ty395-engine-2.html

And btw, I use a linked belt. Never have to worry about belts again. Vibration Free Link Belt

And fwiw, I replaced my electric temperature gauge with a mechanical Murphy Switchgage and alarm.

And fyi, once the coolant has boiled out and loses contact with the sending unit, it renders the gauge, any gauge, useless. That's only one valid reason to have a coolant recovery system on your engine.

Also, any dealer that supports the TY395 engine will have the part you need. Circle-G, Affordable, Keno, to name just a few.

 

[Bob Rooks]

 

[minidozer]

Finally got around to checking the coolant temperature circuit. My fingers said I had two wires attached to the meter, one going to the sensor. After pulling the meter, I found that one wire was just for the meter light therefore the meter is mechanical, not electric. Will be switching to a simple electric temperature gauge. Will also switch to the link belt as suggested. Should have checked first before asking the question!

 

[Bob Rooks]

Will be switching to a simple electric temperature gauge.

Nothing is simpler than a mechanical gauge. :thumbsup:

 

[greg_g]

Your definition of mechanical is inaccurate. A mechanical gauge would have ZERO wires, and be inserted directly into the media being probed. Your coolant gauge is electrical, and needs a minimum of two wires. The wire between the sensor and the gauge is ground. The other one is 12v from the battery. The fact that it also illuminates the gauge face is incidental. 12v hits the gauge from the battery side, and passes through the sensor on the way to ground.Otherwise you'd never have a complete circuit. The sensor itself is a thermocouple, in which electrical resistance changes relative to temperature. As the temperature changes, so does the resistance to ground. Ground resistance is what subsequently varies the voltage passing through the circuit. These variations are what move the needle.

//greg//

 

[minidozer]

Greg,

I am sorry I was not clearer. What I thought were two wires was wrong. One was a wire only for a small light bulb and the other was not a wire but what appears to be a small copper tube. The reason I pulled the meter was testing with an ohm meter showed no resistance from this "copper tube" to ground. Now I understand why.

A mechanical temperature meter may be very simple but it never worked properly. I am not against replacing my defected temperature gauge with another mechanical temperature gauge but my thinking is I have more thread options with a thermistor sensor and where possible, I want my parts to come from the local auto parts store.

Now if only I could get rid of my "diesel bugs" I would be a happy camper. Yes, I have been using a biocide but it is not controlling/solving the problem. Have decided to switch to a product called Bio Kleen. Have not been able to find locally so will have to purchase from Amazon.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Greg,

I am sorry I was not clearer. What I thought were two wires was wrong. One was a wire only for a small light bulb and the other was not a wire but what appears to be a small copper tube. The reason I pulled the meter was testing with an ohm meter showed no resistance from this "copper tube" to ground. Now I understand why.

A mechanical temperature meter may be very simple but it never worked properly. I am not against replacing my defected temperature gauge with another mechanical temperature gauge but my thinking is I have more thread options with a thermistor sensor and where possible, I want my parts to come from the local auto parts store.

Now if only I could get rid of my "diesel bugs" I would be a happy camper. Yes, I have been using a biocide but it is not controlling/solving the problem. Have decided to switch to a product called Bio Kleen. Have not been able to find locally so will have to purchase from Amazon.

Be aware that if you use domestic gauges from a local parts store you will have to make adapters (see the picture of my temp. gauge in post #6). Domestic gauges are typically 2" OD and will fall through the dashboard otherwise. You can special order 2-5/8" OD domestic gauges but then you will have to enlarge your existing holes. The threaded holes in your thermostat housing are 1/2" NPT metric equivalent.
Wasn't aware you are having bug issues. If you aren't able to control your bugs then you aren't using a true biocide, or your fuel source is badly contaminated and not treated. On the tractor, you must drain and thoroughly clean the fuel tank, clean all screens, change the filter, and refill the tank with known good fuel treated with a real biocide such as Hammond's BioBor JF, and treat subsequent fuelings at least three times. You will have to continually monitor the screen in your sediment bowl for traces. The bugs are highly corrosive to fuel systems and can do some very costly damage.

Biobor Jf Fuel Additives - Products

 

[minidozer]

Bob,

I am aware that hole for the gauge is slightly bigger than 2 3/8" and the domestic gauge is 2". This is an easy fix. Also found out the threads are 3/8" NPT so I purchased another mechanical gauge.

Thanks for the information on the Biobor. The stuff I was using was purchased in a marine store and I do not think it is dual phase. Bio Kleen and Biobor are both dual phase. Will start another thread if the new stuff does not inprove my problem.

 

[greg_g]

My diesel experience is limited to small (<3.3 liter) diesels, 5 tractors and 4 autos over 25 years. Never once have I encountered a mechanical temp gauge. Oil gauge, yes. Temp? No. Is there a chance that some previous owner retrofitted an oil temp gauge in place of a coolant temp gauge?

Regarding the biocide, it only kills live organisms. You have to clean out the dead stuff yourself. Boil out the tank and the sediment bowl and the low pressure fuel lines. Might be easier to simply replace bowl and lines with new. Once the fuel path to the filter housing is clean, replace the fuel filter. If you're lucky, the filter caught most of the dead stuff - and the high pressure side may have remained comparatively "bug free".

//greg//

 

[minidozer]

Greg,

Dozer was a crate shipment i.e. brand new. My experience on gas or diesel is zero! OJT, reading on sites like this and helpful people like yourself, Bob, Rich, Tommy, etc. have made all the difference. I knew this would be a learning experience before I even purchased the dozer. Have not regreted the purchase and to all those that share their experience, a special THANKS.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Greg,
Every one used mechanical gauges before the advent of electrical gauges.
Capillary tube temp gauges are still very common on diesel powered equipment.

 

[greg_g]

Again, my comments are based upon five Chinese tractor engines under 3.0 liters displacement - model years 1999 through 2006. Given the OP forum join date, my comments are submitted on the assumption of a 2004 or newer dozer. That would likely give it the 2.2 liter engine. I never once considered that it might have been delivered with other than an electric gauge.

Minidozer - if you in fact do have a mechanical gauge, look closely around the thermostat housing for a removable plug. That's where a thermistor-type coolant sensor would screw in. Wire that to the ground side of an electric gauge, and connect battery supply to the other side (of the gauge)

//greg//

 

[Bob Rooks]

FWIW, my dozer came from the factory new in '06 with a mechanical temp. gauge.

 

[timbatrader]

I have a similar dozer to Bobs but branded as an East Wind the Bourdon tube (mechanical) temp gauge failed early on and I have replaced with an electric one easy cheap and it works The Bourdon tube type only need a kink or a bruise to the tube to stop working


Mechanical gauges utilize an internal bourdon tube. One end of the bourdon tube is connected to a gear and shaft assembly that moves a pointer. When the pressure inside the bourdon tube increases, the bourdon tube uncoils slightly. The amount of uncoiling that occurs is proportional to the pressure inside the bourdon tube. As the tube uncoils, its motion activates the gear and shaft system that turns the pointer on the gauge. While all that you see when you look at the gauge is the pointer moving, you should understand that there is a small, bent tube (the bourdon tube) that's coiling and uncoiling with each change in the pressure inside that tube.

Mechanical pressure gauges are connected directly to the process fluid being measured (i.e. oil). As the process fluid pressure changes the pressure on the bourdon tube also changes which in turn moves the pointer on the gauge.

Mechanical temperature gauges also utilize a bourdon tube. They have a sealed capillary tube and bulb assembly that is filled with temperature sensitive liquid that produces a proportional vapor pressure on the bourdon tube. As the temperature changes, the pressure inside the bourdon tube changes, which in turn moves the pointer on the gauge.

 

[minidozer]

Replaced temperature gauge with another mechanical gauge, radiator cap (7 psi), thermostst (180 degree) with 3/8" thick rubber doughnut on top and fan belt with HF link belt. Engine temperature came up to ~180 degrees and held. All parts came from local stores.

Coolant System Parts for dozer w/ TY395T 2002.5 engine.

Top Radiator Hose: Goodyear 56024 (5” length, 1 1/2” ID)

Bottom Radiator Hose: Goodyear 52413 (13 3/4” length flex hose, 1 1/2” ID)

Radiator Cap: Stant 18282 (7 psi)

Fan Belt: Harbor Freight link belt

Thermostat: Napa 133, Stant 13548 or MotoRAD 245-180
Note: Need to reduce diameter of flange to fit in engine block and add ~ 3/8” rubber doughnut between top of thermostat and thermostat housing to allow engine to come up to temperature.

Thermostat Housing Seal: FEL-PRO 35063
Note: Needs minor elongation of bolt holes.

Coolant Temperature Gauge: Eguus 6242 (2” mechanical gauge)
Note: OEM temperature gauge hole is 2 3/8”. Equus gauge comes with a mounting bracket that can be modified and screwed to the dash covering this hole. Engine sensor hole is 3/8” NPT. Equus gauge comes with a 3/8” and 1/2” NPT adapter. A ground wire needs to be added for the gauge light to work.



FILTERS

Air - WIX 46210

Fuel - WIX 33972 (5/16” inline 50 micron screen prefilter)
Note: Replaces three hidden OEM screens.

- WIX 33195 (10 micron spin on)

Hydraulic - WIX 51551 (Northern Tool add on)


Oil – WIX 51515

 

[Bob Rooks]

Replaced temperature gauge with another mechanical gauge, radiator cap (7 psi), thermostst (180 degree) with 3/8" thick rubber doughnut on top and fan belt with HF link belt. Engine temperature came up to ~180 degrees and held. All parts came from local stores.

Coolant System Parts for dozer w/ TY395T 2002.5 engine.

Top Radiator Hose: Goodyear 56024 (5 length, 1 1/2 ID)

Bottom Radiator Hose: Goodyear 52413 (13 3/4 length flex hose, 1 1/2 ID)

Radiator Cap: Stant 18282 (7 psi)

Fan Belt: Harbor Freight link belt

Thermostat: Napa 133, Stant 13548 or MotoRAD 245-180
Note: Need to reduce diameter of flange to fit in engine block and add ~ 3/8 rubber doughnut between top of thermostat and thermostat housing to allow engine to come up to temperature.

Thermostat Housing Seal: FEL-PRO 35063
Note: Needs minor elongation of bolt holes.

Coolant Temperature Gauge: Eguus 6242 (2 mechanical gauge)
Note: OEM temperature gauge hole is 2 3/8? Equus gauge comes with a mounting bracket that can be modified and screwed to the dash covering this hole. Engine sensor hole is 3/8 NPT. Equus gauge comes with a 3/8 and 1/2 NPT adapter. A ground wire needs to be added for the gauge light to work.



FILTERS

Air - WIX 46210

Fuel - WIX 33972 (5/16 inline 50 micron screen prefilter)
Note: Replaces three hidden OEM screens.

- WIX 33195 (10 micron spin on)

Hydraulic - WIX 51551 (Northern Tool add on)


Oil WIX 51515

Nice post. Your dozer didn't come with a hydraulic return filter? Wow. Glad you got one on.