Cooling Issue

[Paul Campanis]

Is there coolant in the base pan/oil?

No, just oil. Also no oil in the antifreeze.

 

[oldtimer 66]

Knowing that new John Deere parts are extremely expensive, the Yanmar rebuild kit maybe be cheaper in the long run. There you would have all of the parts you would need but you could just pick and chose which ones you would want to use. Just a thought.

 

[Paul Campanis]

Knowing that new John Deere parts are extremely expensive, the Yanmar rebuild kit maybe be cheaper in the long run. There you would have all of the parts you would need but you could just pick and chose which ones you would want to use. Just a thought.

I love your idea. Where would I find such a kit for a Yanmar 3T80UJ engine? I tried searching the Internet with no good results.

 

[Paul Campanis]

Isn't this a Yanmar engine. You should be able to cross reference your engine model to a comparable Yanmar engine. From a quick look on line there seems to be plenty of Yanmar new parts available. A complete rebuild kit $469, sleeves, pistons, rings, bedarings, gaskets etc. Overhaul Rebuild Kit Fits for Yanmar Engine 3T80 3T80LE 3T80LE-HP 3T80

Thank you !

 

[Paul Campanis]

Isn't this a Yanmar engine. You should be able to cross reference your engine model to a comparable Yanmar engine. From a quick look on line there seems to be plenty of Yanmar new parts available. A complete rebuild kit $469, sleeves, pistons, rings, bedarings, gaskets etc. Overhaul Rebuild Kit Fits for Yanmar Engine 3T80 3T80LE 3T80LE-HP 3T80

Thanks, that looks great.
Is it difficult to remove the cylinder sleeves?

 

[etpm]

Before you remove the sleeves maybe determine if you need to do so. Your original complaint was overheating and a pressurized coolant system. Now it looks like a blown head gasket is the culprit. Find out first why the engine overheated and then determine which components need replacing. Find out why the head gasket failed. Talk to the folks checking the head and ask them about the sleeves. Please make sure you can do the work required so that it doesn't need to be done again.
Eric

 

[stephanadams]

Does tractor have thermostat?

Speed Test​

 

[Paul Campanis]

You will need to replace the head gasket anyway but it looks to me, from the pictures, like a blown head gasket, especially the center cylinder. I dunno what the part is you are showing but it should be pretty easy to find out where it goes as there are probably two more of the same part. In any case the head needs to be checked for flatness. Might as well check the block too. This can be done by yourself with a good straightedge and feeler gages. But you need to be using a known good straightedge and know how to use feeler gages. Not rocket science by any means and anybody can do it you just need to learn how. I have good straight edges and can check them for straightness within .0001" in 3 feet, but I have a machine shop. You can take the head to any decent diesel shop and they too can check for flatness and if not flat enough they should be able to show you exactly where the head deviates from flatness and how much material needs to be removed if the head is too far out. There YouTube videos, I am sure, that show how to check flatness with a straightedge. In any case don't be tempted by a cheap Chinese straightedge. It may be good, it may not be. If you do go that route then buy two and check them against each other. I have done this for a friend. The straight edges bought for so cheap were not as straight as advertised. I fixed them as a favor.
Eric

Thank you for the input. The head is at an excellent machine shop being checked for geometry and cracks. I am considering getting two of these straight edges in the link below as you suggest. I would like to check the block which is still in the tractor. The head is off at the shop. I dropped the oil pan and pushed the cylinders out of the top. The middle one had aluminum smeared all over the rings. The other two look ok. When I have the head back on I plan on fixing the middle piston by replacing the rings only. Then I will check compression on all three cylinders.

Please advise...
What am I missing?

Amazon.com

 

[etpm]

Thank you for the input. The head is at an excellent machine shop being checked for geometry and cracks. I am considering getting two of these straight edges in the link below as you suggest. I would like to check the block which is still in the tractor. The head is off at the shop. I dropped the oil pan and pushed the cylinders out of the top. The middle one had aluminum smeared all over the rings. The other two look ok. When I have the head back on I plan on fixing the middle piston by replacing the rings only. Then I will check compression on all three cylinders.

Please advise...
What am I missing?

https://www.amazon.com/Anodized-Aluminum-Tolerance-Straightness-Machinery/dp/B08VS7M9FL[/U

Are those straight edges long enou...the surface can be felt and stoned away. Eric

 

[GMIslander]

Thank you for the input. The head is at an excellent machine shop being checked for geometry and cracks. I am considering getting two of these straight edges in the link below as you suggest. I would like to check the block which is still in the tractor. The head is off at the shop. I dropped the oil pan and pushed the cylinders out of the top. The middle one had aluminum smeared all over the rings. The other two look ok. When I have the head back on I plan on fixing the middle piston by replacing the rings only. Then I will check compression on all three cylinders.

Please advise...
What am I missing?

Amazon.com

Why not clean the pistons up, new rings on them all, do a bit of fine emery cloth swirl to break the glaze on the sleeves and there all the same.

 

[Richard001]

You might also check with your local Thermo-King Dealer. Thermo-King uses the Yanmar engine in a lot of their products.

That one piston looks really bad, that should be replaced.

 

[GMIslander]

That piston IS a mess. Whats the liner look like?

 

[etpm]

Somehow my reply to the OP has become truncated. So I will try to recreate it. The straight edges need to be long enough to span the engine block diagonally. The block must be checked lengthwise, crosswise, and diagonally. After the block has been scrupulously cleaned lay the straight edges on the block and use feeler gages to determine flatness. Just try to slip a feeler gage under the straight edge all along its length. Start with the .001" feeler and increase as needed. Put only enough pressure on the straight edge to insure it doesn't lift when trying to slip the feeler gages between the straight edge and the block. Before trying to determine flatness it is a very good idea to make sure there are no tiny high spots on the block. A tiny ding will raise material around the ding. You can use a FINE india stone with diesel or WD40 or a similar thin lubricant to check for high spots. Just slide the stone across the wet surface and if the stone hangs you have a high spot. Remove the high spot by running the stone across the high spot until the stone no longer hangs up. Use moderate pressure when doing so. If you don't have an india stone and can't find one easily then you can use a NEW fine cut file to remove high spots. It will tend to hang up just like a stone but will cut much faster. So use light pressure. Using a fine india stone and thin lubricant you can detect easily a high spot that is only .0001" above the surface being checked.
Eric

 

[Paul Campanis]

Why not clean the pistons up, new rings on them all, do a bit of fine emery cloth swirl to break the glaze on the sleeves and there all the same.

Thank you for your input. There is no glaze on any of the sleeves. I'm grateful for that. Two sets of rings seem fine. The middle piston got messed up. I would like to test compression on all three cylinders before putting the oil pan back on. Please give me any other advice you think of.

Is there a way to put a temperature gauge with a sensor near the middle piston? There was air in the cooling system and I think that through the temperature sensor off. I stopped the engine as soon as the idiot like came on. That was too late.

 

[Paul Campanis]

Are those straight edges long enou...the surface can be felt and stoned away. Eric

 

[Paul Campanis]

Somehow my reply to the OP has become truncated. So I will try to recreate it. The straight edges need to be long enough to span the engine block diagonally. The block must be checked lengthwise, crosswise, and diagonally. After the block has been scrupulously cleaned lay the straight edges on the block and use feeler gages to determine flatness. Just try to slip a feeler gage under the straight edge all along its length. Start with the .001" feeler and increase as needed. Put only enough pressure on the straight edge to insure it doesn't lift when trying to slip the feeler gages between the straight edge and the block. Before trying to determine flatness it is a very good idea to make sure there are no tiny high spots on the block. A tiny ding will raise material around the ding. You can use a FINE india stone with diesel or WD40 or a similar thin lubricant to check for high spots. Just slide the stone across the wet surface and if the stone hangs you have a high spot. Remove the high spot by running the stone across the high spot until the stone no longer hangs up. Use moderate pressure when doing so. If you don't have an india stone and can't find one easily then you can use a NEW fine cut file to remove high spots. It will tend to hang up just like a stone but will cut much faster. So use light pressure. Using a fine india stone and thin lubricant you can detect easily a high spot that is only .0001" above the surface being checked.
Eric

Thank you for the input. I need to get longer straight edges too span the diagonal.

What is that smallest feeler gauge that I need for this process?

 

[Richard001]

Before you start bolting the rod ends to the crank, you should make sure that the journals are round and not flattened out.

 

[etpm]

Thank you for the input. I need to get longer straight edges too span the diagonal.

What is that smallest feeler gauge that I need for this process?

Just buy a set of feeler gages. The thinnest will be .001". Start with that. But you will either need to find out online or here or from your machine shop how flat the block needs to be. I'm pretty sure it will be fine though. You still need to find out why the engine overheated. I suspect it ran out of coolant. So maybe you have a leak from a loose hose clamp or a split in a hose. I dunno if your engine has a water pump. If it does they can go bad. If not, if your engine is a thermosyphon, then maybe you had the wrong coolant mixture. But you gotta figure it out.
Eric

 

[gengine]

Those tractors, I believe, were Yanmar engines. On a lot of those they used crank pulleys that were "Clutches", meaning they had friction material when engaged. The material wears out over time, so your cooling fan doesn't spin as fast as it should to move air through the radiator. Something to check and keep an eye on, but what I see in your video, I feel you have exhaust gasses going into your coolant from a blown head gasket. You can buy a tester, easy to use, to verify.

 

[gengine]

Just buy a set of feeler gages. The thinnest will be .001". Start with that. But you will either need to find out online or here or from your machine shop how flat the block needs to be. I'm pretty sure it will be fine though. You still need to find out why the engine overheated. I suspect it ran out of coolant. So maybe you have a leak from a loose hose clamp or a split in a hose. I dunno if your engine has a water pump. If it does they can go bad. If not, if your engine is a thermosyphon, then maybe you had the wrong coolant mixture. But you gotta figure it out.
Eric