Copper Air Lines?

[dummy]

Great idea on using the normally open solenoid for the drain line. Thanks

 

[Boondox]

DocHeb has some great ideas! I shoulda done that! One thing I did do right is hanging the copper with a slight slope so all moisture condensed and ran away from the compressor to a drain valve.

Pete

www.GatewayToVermont.com

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Refridgeration copper is built to withstand far greater shock loads than your air lines will ever see. Use soft silver solder on the fittings and you're good to 400psi.
When using copper for compressed air, make damn sure your lines have plenty of pitch and are thoroughly drained when conditions go below freezing, or you'll find plenty of buldges and splits.
Also make sure to use vibration mounts on the compressor if it's in the attic, or learn to like drum music.
An outside air intake will also reduce noise in the shop, and compressor life will be extended.

 

[frank_f15]

a little late on this thread but, here is my .02 worth. if u are going to use copper, then type L at min. type k if u really want to be safe. use silver solder or phos copper as soldering medium and be sure to use a condensate drain at point of use. water will paly havoc with certain air operated tools.also use a fexible connector bet, compressor and pipeing, a ruptured air line can be very dangerous, just the sound can hurt your hearing.

 

[Paul_in_CT]

Guys I`m getting ready to install radiant floor heat in my first floor.When I went to pick up the tubing I notticed some blue tubing they had. They use it for air lines also can be used for water lines. Not sure on the spec but could find out. I just used some of the orange radiant tubing to pipe in my buddy`s radiators. Much easier and quicker than copper. If I ever build my garage I planned on looking into it further. Here`s the link to the stuff. American radiant is who I bought from they are down to earth guys and have always been honest when answering any questions.
http://www.americanradiant.com/kitec.htm

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Plastic has been used for just about every air line on every truck made in America for the last 20 years. The big bugaboo about plastic air lines got started cause some fool used cheap plastic from some home center, and blew the line.
Like anything, the skill ain't in the material, it's in the mechanic. Fittings for plastic tubing usually run the cost above using copper and soldering it. R-22 runs at head pressures of 300# and has thermal shock to contend with that make an air system look like a kids baloon, yet R-22 systems run every day in copper with silflos joynts.
Seems like most air systems I see are plumbed with undersize pipe cause the guy who installed it never heard of fluid resistance in a line.
Bottom line, if you don't know what you're doing, leave the job alone.

 

[jdrotert]

I've been lurking in the wings on this thread just trying to pick up some info. I purchased a house with a detached 3-bay shed last May. The shed came with a 60-gallon compressor (woo hoo!!!). There's all but no plumbing for air in the shed. I'd like to run piping for 3 or 4 outlets around the shed along with one outside. Copper seems the way to go. What would a good rule of thumb be for pipe size. It looks like I'll need at least the type L kind, but what size. My longest run will be around 100 feet. Would 1/2 inch be good enough for this kind of run?

 

[Bird]

I'm going to guess you don't have any really BIG air tools that require a lot of volume and since most use 3/8" inlets, then 1/2" lines should be plenty. I don't have any runs with my permanent 1/2" air lines more than about 30', but I sometimes hook up 150' of 3/8" air hoses to one of them./w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

 

[Boner]

I have always used lead free solder (not sure of specific type) for plumbing H20. Does anybody know what is the max psi for for standard lead free solder joints?

 

[Bird]

I don't know what the maximum psi is, but it's a bunch. It's used on air-conditioner lines also.