Core Aerator

[cp1969]

Don't expect quick results. I've been core aerating twice a year for three (or is it four?) years, and honestly, I can't tell any difference.

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

Don't expect quick results. I've been core aerating twice a year for three (or is it four?) years, and honestly, I can't tell any difference.

Me too

 

[lawn_king]

Core aeration performed in conjunction with a high quality lawn program will produce excellent results. In addition to compaction reduction, it prunes tiller roots, and increases the soils ability to utilize water, oxygen and elements. The topdressing of plugs breaks down thatch and fertilizer applied after an aeration is subject to far less photodecomposition.

 

[thatguy]

A few weeks ago I bought one at Northern Tool that is identical to the Agri-fab except the tines are painted instead of galvanized. The A-f was $179 at Lowes, the Northern Tool version was $129. With a little welding, I converted it to a 3 pt mount. I use it on a BX24. The plastic bearings probably wouldn't last if I pulled it several miles a day in a large commercial or farm application but it works great in the yard. The 3 pt conversion was an easy mod with a great payback in performance and ease of use. Sears sells a 3 pt version for about $289 (same aerator tines etc) but didn't have it in stock. As usual I couldn't wait. Saving $160 didn't hurt either!

Can you post a pic of your conversion.. My friend is about to 'reclaim' his Sears pull behind 48" core aerator in the very near future and I want to buy a similar unit and convert it to a 3pt version using an old cultivator (less tines, frame only) that my dad never uses.

thanks

Brian

 

[cp1969]

Core aeration performed in conjunction with a high quality lawn program will produce excellent results. In addition to compaction reduction, it prunes tiller roots, and increases the soils ability to utilize water, oxygen and elements. The topdressing of plugs breaks down thatch and fertilizer applied after an aeration is subject to far less photodecomposition.

Yeah, I know, I read all that, too. That's why I started doing it.

But the bottom line is my eye can't tell any difference.

 

[Blagadan]

Beautiful wheelhorse Volfandt! I would love one of those...

Just a tip for you regarding your aerator... I know they are designed to be used with concrete blocks for adding weight, but in my experience, the blocks ruin your weight tray. Even with them strapped down, they move around, and tear the paint off. I suppose you could put a rag under the blocks to stop them sliding around but I would recommend sand bags instead. Each of mine weighs about 25lbs and they stow very well on the tray (or any other implement needing weight) without moving around....

cp1969 and Yankees fan... No matter what garden/lawn forum you go to theres always tons of threads about aerating as you probably know. There are loads of various reasons why it may not be working out better for you. You guys are right though, its not an instant "fix" for any lawn it takes years to notice an improvement... Everyones conditions are different - soil, climate, grass type etc. A friend of mine uses a spike aerator and he finds it good for him but he also adds ammendments after he aerates. Adding sand has made a big difference to my lawn but it is back breaking work. Tons and tons of sand every year.. The sand keeps my soil open. Last spring, I also over seeded with 20lbs of grass seed. That made a big "visual" difference. My plan for next year is to top dress with a good quality top soil just to add organic matter to my clay soil. It goes on and on...

 

[Volfandt]

Beautiful wheelhorse Volfandt! I would love one of those...

Thanks Blagadan, I've had the 856 for nearly 25 yrs and I liked it so much I bought another 1966 model last winter. An 876 which was the HST model.
The 856 recently got it's 1st engine rebuild and a good "red washing" so she's ready to go another 41 yrs

I recently found a stack of 50lb bags of hardened quick-crete and I'll be switching the ballast over to them. I added another block (total of 4) and still didn't feel like they were distributing the weight as equally. And yes, I've also noticed they do bouce around a bit.

With our lack of rain this past yr the conditions haven't been very favorable for aerating and in the several trys I've run it, I've yet to get the 3" depth nor any appreciable amount of cores laying about. I estimate the hole depth at around 2" and what does get distributed on top is more like bits and pieces.
I've been waiting on rain now for months.........

Thankfully my rocky/clay former pasture seems to respond well to any and everything that I do that improves it and hopefull this core aerator will prove it's worth.
One thing I've been noticing on all the commercial L&G trailers I pass daily is these powered aerators, seems they all have them so they must be something of value.

 

[c-and-a]

Here is my setup...front mount dethatch so I can bag the thatch and a 3pt core aerator - I use both and have noticed a huge difference...

 

[c-and-a]

OOPS - something strange happened with the attachment...try this one

 

[KeithInSpace]

That is one heck of a setup, Mr. C-and-a. With the 3PH aerator, you cannot leave it ground-engaged through a turn, correct? I try using the "less expensive" (Agrifab) type aerators and my clay eats them for lunch. Not to mention that I end up running the thing at 6 or 8 MPH...

I'd love to get a spike aerator mounted to a barrel that is in turn mounted to the draw-bar instead of hard to the 3PH. Many trees, you know.

Then I'd have to store the darn thing...