Oil & Fuel Correct Oil Viscosity

   / Correct Oil Viscosity #21  
Sully2 said:
If they are so smart...why did they specify oils whos API rating went OBSOLETE in 1995..????

CG is a current API rating. Newer oil ratings require less sulfer in the fue.
API Oil Service Categories

Kubota's oil recommendations depend on type of fuel used.
CF with any diesel fuel including "off road" fuel
CG-4, CH-4, CI-4 with Low Sulfer Diesel
CJ-4 with Ultra-Low Sulfer Diesel
Kubota Tractor USA - Lubricants Schedule

So if you use Ultra-Low Sulfer Diesel as sold at your local "gas" station, you can use oil with the latest rating.
 
   / Correct Oil Viscosity #22  
I was checking on oil today in Wally World and was disappointed to find the 5W-40 RotellaT synthetic is only rated CI-4 plus, while RotellaT 15W-40 dino oil meets the CJ-4 spec. :eek: If anything, I would have expected the opposite. I guess that until Shell reformulates RotellaT synthetic, you might be better off not using it with ULSD.
 
   / Correct Oil Viscosity #23  
David Cockey said:
CG is a current API rating. Newer oil ratings require less sulfer in the fue.
API Oil Service Categories

Kubota's oil recommendations depend on type of fuel used.
CF with any diesel fuel including "off road" fuel
CG-4, CH-4, CI-4 with Low Sulfer Diesel
CJ-4 with Ultra-Low Sulfer Diesel
Kubota Tractor USA - Lubricants Schedule

So if you use Ultra-Low Sulfer Diesel as sold at your local "gas" station, you can use oil with the latest rating.

But in MY Kubota owners manual...CC; CD and CE oils were specified..and I bought my tractor in 2005. AT LEAST they could have included the LATEST SPEC ( at the time) for their tractors. There are tons of "info" in their owners manuals that is "hokie as hades" and doesnt make a bit of sense..to anyone including them!
It doesnt really matter to ME because I will changes oils etc...much more frequently that their sched says...because of my low hours of usage per year. Im not leaving oil..as an example...in for 5-6 years just because of low usage...but I'll always use a product that is vastly superior to their specs and to their branded products!!
 
   / Correct Oil Viscosity #24  
Blackbird_BX said:
I was checking on oil today in Wally World and was disappointed to find the 5W-40 RotellaT synthetic is only rated CI-4 plus, while RotellaT 15W-40 dino oil meets the CJ-4 spec. :eek: If anything, I would have expected the opposite. I guess that until Shell reformulates RotellaT synthetic, you might be better off not using it with ULSD.

You can use CJ-4 oil with Ultra-Low Sulfer Diesel fuel. The limit for the oil is the maximum amount of sulfer in the fuel. Less sulfer in the fuel is okay. Have a look at the links I posted above for more information.
 
   / Correct Oil Viscosity #25  
i think mboulais has the best advice in this thread so far.

oil is changing a LOT these days. there is a great deal of technology and it is all bound up in the api classification codes and mysterios additive pacs that are proprietary and known by no one - not even the engineers who developed them. just some old guy at the plant named bob who actually ads them to the vat and he is blindfolded en route to the facility.

the classification codes are what the typical consumer should follow for the best results. if you want to get obsessive, Bob Is The Oil Guy has all the gory details, user testing, lab analysis, etc. anybody could want.

a good example of this is the legislation around synthetic oil and what characterises a full syn lube. several manufacturers have been criticized for bending the rules because their full syn is actually a blend coming from a different base oil group (III rather than IV). recent court case allowed some creative marketing, so now most full syn labeled oils are actually dino blended synthetics or multi base blends. only a handful (royal purple, redline, amsoil, etc.) are actually 100% synthetic before the additive pac is added. and you'll pay a pretty penny for the purity.

writing of additive pacs, there is another area of high tech wizardry. again, legislation has forced confusion. want the zinc and other additives that make your valves last longer in your gas engine? buy mobil 1 truck and suv. it's regular mobil 1 that has the additive pac which was outlawed for regular autos due to emissions, but over the road truckers started experiencing high mileage valve train failures. it was traced to the additive packs missing additives. so if the oil is branded for "truck" use, its allowed to contain the additives outlawed for the regular auto user.

some folks swear by the german made castrol known as GC gold. it is a true synthetic and is the only syntec made in germany. somehow, it manages to turn in some of the best engine wear analysis numbers from any oil. some attritubute it to elves, gummi bear additives or green beer used in the manufacturing process.

oil selection is a complex topic and you can't just do what your dad or grandfather taught you when you were younger. it's virtually impossible for the average person to keep up with this technology.

follow the instructions of the engineers who developed your engine and wrote the manual. use the vicosity recommended by them and make sure your "brand" meets or exceeds the classification code specified.
 
   / Correct Oil Viscosity #26  
canoetrpr said:
rdam - I'm no expert on oils but why pick 10W-30 over 5W-40? I would think that the latter would run better in colder and warmer temperatures.

Whatever did come with the tractor (I assume 10W-30) did run way to hot in the summer time as I have noticed last summer that with the 15W-40, the engine ran a lot cooler.

Somebody gave the best reason for staying with the recommended 10-30. It went something like this: The Kubota engine is manufactured to a very tight tolerance. High quality...like a swiss watch. The thinner viscosity oil is able to get into the tighter tolerance spaces. Hence the recommendation from the factory.

The 30 weight will flow easier in colder temps. A synthetic 30 weight will REALLY flow better in cold weather, and will (should) have the engine running cooler in hot weather. This is based on my experience with an air-cooled motorcycle where the oil temperature was consistently between 5 and 15 degrees less.

15w-40 is not "diesel" motor oil. Yes it is commonly recommended for many diesel engines, but not all...including the Kubotas.
 
   / Correct Oil Viscosity #27  
Sully2 said:
If they are so smart...why did they specify oils whos API rating went OBSOLETE in 1995..????

You mean CD? Does it matter? I think the main issue is the weight, and that it is diesel rated. CD is still listed on oils as follows. I even see CC in there!

"Is recommended for diesel engines and other applications requiring any of the listed worldwide specifications and gasoline engines requiring API SL, SJ, SH... or ACEA A3."

API CI-4+/CH-4/CG-4/SL
API CF/CE/CD/CC
API CF-2/CD-II
Global DHD-1
ACEA A3/B3, E2, E3, E5
JASO DH-1
Mack EO-N Premium Plus ?3
Detroit Diesel Power Guard 93K214
Caterpillar ECF-1-a, ECF-2
Cummins CES 20076/20077/20078 (current), 20071/20072 (older)
Volvo VDS3/VDS2
Mercedes Benz 228.1/228.3/229.1
MAN 3275
MTU Type 1
MIL-PRF-2104G
 
   / Correct Oil Viscosity #28  
Kubota recommends 10w30 above 77 degrees and 10w30 below 32 degrees. These are summer temps. Even last July it got down to 46 degrees. What if it is -16 like this week? Seems odd to me. I had 15w40 when it was -10 in December and it hardly turned over enough to start. I went to Mobil1 5w40 synthetic and it started a lot easier in the same temps. Kubota is too general for oil. If I could get 0w 30 i'd use it. Anyone know of 0w syn? Later Steve.
 
   / Correct Oil Viscosity #29  
ihookem said:
If I could get 0w 30 i'd use it. Anyone know of 0w syn? Later Steve.
Mobil makes 0W-30 Mobil 1, but I haven't been able to find it for awhile. I used it year round when I could get it in my old Geo Metro (the car my dogs are "driving" in my avatar). The thinner the oil, the happier the Metro was. Fuel economy went up and it ran cooler using it. I think the a lot of people are nervous about using 0W-30 in their car, so sales aren't high enough for most stores to stock it. That Metro had over 170,000 miles on it when I sold it and it was still getting over 50 MPG in mixed driving, never used oil or needed any repair other than regular maintenance. I wouldn't use it my Kubota as it is only rated CF. If I could find it I would use it in my cars.
 
   / Correct Oil Viscosity #30  
rdam said:
You mean CD? Does it matter? I think the main issue is the weight, and that it is diesel rated. CD is still listed on oils as follows. I even see CC in there!

"Is recommended for diesel engines and other applications requiring any of the listed worldwide specifications and gasoline engines requiring API SL, SJ, SH... or ACEA A3."

API CI-4+/CH-4/CG-4/SL
API CF/CE/CD/CC
API CF-2/CD-II
Global DHD-1
ACEA A3/B3, E2, E3, E5
JASO DH-1
Mack EO-N Premium Plus ?3
Detroit Diesel Power Guard 93K214
Caterpillar ECF-1-a, ECF-2
Cummins CES 20076/20077/20078 (current), 20071/20072 (older)
Volvo VDS3/VDS2
Mercedes Benz 228.1/228.3/229.1
MAN 3275
MTU Type 1
MIL-PRF-2104G

If it didnt matter at all..then why didnt they at least specify the API spec what was the best in 2005? What their manual IMPLIES is that ANYTHING thats a higher spec that "specified" is A-OK...but like many of the screw-ups in their printed material they dont come outright and say that.

I went with 5W-40 in a SYN oil with the latest spec's and will run that till either I die or the engine blows..because I searched high and low and couldnt find a 10W-30 DIESEL RATED oil that was readily available.
 

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