Corroded battery cable

[Haruhunter]

Well I took my 3016 out of the trailer and noticed the positive battery cable was very corroded. There are two wires running into the cheap brass connector. My question is can I just cut the wires and replace with two end connectors or do I need to replace with a cheap OEM part. I am unsure of the second wire and the plastic piece attached to it

 

[Shift4200]

Well I took my 3016 out of the trailer and noticed the positive battery cable was very corroded. There are two wires running into the cheap brass connector. My question is can I just cut the wires and replace with two end connectors or do I need to replace with a cheap OEM part. I am unsure of the second wire and the plastic piece attached to it

I only have experience in the automotive world, so take this with a grain of salt.

It's my understanding that you can remove the corroded part and replace with new as long as you maintain the same gauge wire, or larger. It's important to get good quality cable that is free of air to prevent future corrosion on the cable. I also find that I have had good results from using anti-corrosion pastes on all exposed parts. Be aware of anything hot when routing the wires.... normally when i do something like this, the LAST thing I do is remove the old wires. This gives me something to follow along, insuring that I don't end up melting the new wire.

(I worked in the custom car audio world for about 8 years, so my knowledge comes from my experiences there.)

-J

 

[ray66v]

Replacement battery cable ends are prone to corrosion where they connect to the cable. That corrosion interferes with the connection, and will eventually lead to insufficient current flow to crank the engine. Visually, they look like they are fine, often causing needless replacement of batteries, and starters, only to find out the problem was a $12 cable.

For that reason, I do not recommend them, except as a temporary solution.

If you want it fixed properly, you need new cables.

 

[JerryK]

AND... once you get everything fixed up... squeaky clean... and tightened down.... Invest in a can of spray battery terminal wax from your local auto parts store. Coat the krap out of each terminal, and everything should last for years. There are other things you can use. But if you would have covered the terminals on day one, you would probably never had the problem. Been using the stuff for many years and it works great...

 

[Haruhunter]

Thanks for the replies .What has me a little confussed is there are two leads coming from the positive post on the battery. Both were connected to the same crappy brass ring that was around the battery post. One looks like a normal positive lead, the other has a plastic connector just before the battery post. The oem connection is a very cheap looking part. I would like to have a heavier gauge connection there

 

[jimpen]

I would look at getting dielectric grease for any kind of electrical connection from tractors to cars to anything that is exposed to weather.

 

[RickB]

Thanks for the replies .What has me a little confussed is there are two leads coming from the positive post on the battery. Both were connected to the same crappy brass ring that was around the battery post. One looks like a normal positive lead, the other has a plastic connector just before the battery post. The oem connection is a very cheap looking part. I would like to have a heavier gauge connection there

Read your manual and see if one of the smaller wires is a fusible link. If it is, do not eliminate it!

 

[Shift4200]

Thanks for the replies .What has me a little confussed is there are two leads coming from the positive post on the battery. Both were connected to the same crappy brass ring that was around the battery post. One looks like a normal positive lead, the other has a plastic connector just before the battery post. The oem connection is a very cheap looking part. I would like to have a heavier gauge connection there

As someone said above, be sure that plastic connector isn't a fuse holder. If it is, you will likely be able to unscrew/unclip/open somehow and find a fuse inside. If you cannot, it may just be a barrel style crimp connector. Pics might help us give you a better opinion. If it is a fused line, just be sure to put another fuse holder in it's place, and maintain the size fuse.

-J

 

[RickB]

As someone said above, be sure that plastic connector isn't a fuse holder. If it is, you will likely be able to unscrew/unclip/open somehow and find a fuse inside. If you cannot, it may just be a barrel style crimp connector. Pics might help us give you a better opinion. If it is a fused line, just be sure to put another fuse holder in it's place, and maintain the size fuse.

-J

I said fusible link, not fuse holder. A fusible link will look the same as a short piece of insulated wire to the unsuspecting.

 

[Scrambler82]

Well I took my 3016 out of the trailer and noticed the positive battery cable was very corroded. There are two wires running into the cheap brass connector. My question is can I just cut the wires and replace with two end connectors or do I need to replace with a cheap OEM part. I am unsure of the second wire and the plastic piece attached to it

How did you make out on this ?
With out knowing, I would have said separating the two would be ok but wondering what you did.
Also, as stated, an anti corrosive paste is called for.

Just wondering how it turned so so please post something, maybe a pic or two.

Thks