Corroded battery cable

[Haruhunter]

Well I took my 3016 out of the trailer and noticed the positive battery cable was very corroded. There are two wires running into the cheap brass connector. My question is can I just cut the wires and replace with two end connectors or do I need to replace with a cheap OEM part. I am unsure of the second wire and the plastic piece attached to it

 

[Shift4200]

Well I took my 3016 out of the trailer and noticed the positive battery cable was very corroded. There are two wires running into the cheap brass connector. My question is can I just cut the wires and replace with two end connectors or do I need to replace with a cheap OEM part. I am unsure of the second wire and the plastic piece attached to it

I only have experience in the automotive world, so take this with a grain of salt.

It's my understanding that you can remove the corroded part and replace with new as long as you maintain the same gauge wire, or larger. It's important to get good quality cable that is free of air to prevent future corrosion on the cable. I also find that I have had good results from using anti-corrosion pastes on all exposed parts. Be aware of anything hot when routing the wires.... normally when i do something like this, the LAST thing I do is remove the old wires. This gives me something to follow along, insuring that I don't end up melting the new wire.

(I worked in the custom car audio world for about 8 years, so my knowledge comes from my experiences there.)

-J

 

[ray66v]

Replacement battery cable ends are prone to corrosion where they connect to the cable. That corrosion interferes with the connection, and will eventually lead to insufficient current flow to crank the engine. Visually, they look like they are fine, often causing needless replacement of batteries, and starters, only to find out the problem was a $12 cable.

For that reason, I do not recommend them, except as a temporary solution.

If you want it fixed properly, you need new cables.

 

[JerryK]

AND... once you get everything fixed up... squeaky clean... and tightened down.... Invest in a can of spray battery terminal wax from your local auto parts store. Coat the krap out of each terminal, and everything should last for years. There are other things you can use. But if you would have covered the terminals on day one, you would probably never had the problem. Been using the stuff for many years and it works great...

 

[Haruhunter]

Thanks for the replies .What has me a little confussed is there are two leads coming from the positive post on the battery. Both were connected to the same crappy brass ring that was around the battery post. One looks like a normal positive lead, the other has a plastic connector just before the battery post. The oem connection is a very cheap looking part. I would like to have a heavier gauge connection there

 

[jimpen]

I would look at getting dielectric grease for any kind of electrical connection from tractors to cars to anything that is exposed to weather.

 

[RickB]

Thanks for the replies .What has me a little confussed is there are two leads coming from the positive post on the battery. Both were connected to the same crappy brass ring that was around the battery post. One looks like a normal positive lead, the other has a plastic connector just before the battery post. The oem connection is a very cheap looking part. I would like to have a heavier gauge connection there

Read your manual and see if one of the smaller wires is a fusible link. If it is, do not eliminate it!

 

[Shift4200]

Thanks for the replies .What has me a little confussed is there are two leads coming from the positive post on the battery. Both were connected to the same crappy brass ring that was around the battery post. One looks like a normal positive lead, the other has a plastic connector just before the battery post. The oem connection is a very cheap looking part. I would like to have a heavier gauge connection there

As someone said above, be sure that plastic connector isn't a fuse holder. If it is, you will likely be able to unscrew/unclip/open somehow and find a fuse inside. If you cannot, it may just be a barrel style crimp connector. Pics might help us give you a better opinion. If it is a fused line, just be sure to put another fuse holder in it's place, and maintain the size fuse.

-J

 

[RickB]

As someone said above, be sure that plastic connector isn't a fuse holder. If it is, you will likely be able to unscrew/unclip/open somehow and find a fuse inside. If you cannot, it may just be a barrel style crimp connector. Pics might help us give you a better opinion. If it is a fused line, just be sure to put another fuse holder in it's place, and maintain the size fuse.

-J

I said fusible link, not fuse holder. A fusible link will look the same as a short piece of insulated wire to the unsuspecting.

 

[Scrambler82]

Well I took my 3016 out of the trailer and noticed the positive battery cable was very corroded. There are two wires running into the cheap brass connector. My question is can I just cut the wires and replace with two end connectors or do I need to replace with a cheap OEM part. I am unsure of the second wire and the plastic piece attached to it

How did you make out on this ?
With out knowing, I would have said separating the two would be ok but wondering what you did.
Also, as stated, an anti corrosive paste is called for.

Just wondering how it turned so so please post something, maybe a pic or two.

Thks

 

[celacross]

My 3016 was only 4 months old when the dealer replaced the cable on mine. They said that there was a batch of bad ones put on at the factory and they have replaced a bunch of them. Well the new one they put on did the same thing within 2 months even being coated with dielectric grease. I spent the 2 bucks and got the old lead replacement end, cut the corroded connector just before the bolt hole and put the one wire under the tightening bolt and the second wire under the other, coated it with dielectric grease and it has been that way for a little over a year now with no further problems. Oh that second wire is a fusible link according to the guy that put the new cable on when it was replaced. Other than that I have had absolutely no problems with my Mahindra. My last tractor was a 2012 Kubota of similar size and I hated that tractor. I love this 3016 and use it a lot!

 

[oldpilgrim]

I happened to notice my 3016 had a big pile of green fuzz under the red battery terminal insulator after having it for about 4 months.

I took it all apart, cleaned it, greased it and reassembled. I've heard it happens because the lead battery post is not sealed completely to the top of the battery case. I mentioned it to my dealer and he said that he's complained to Mahindra about it, as it's so common, but hasn't seen any improvements made yet.

 

[Senorbaylindo]

I'm wondering how all this turned out, I'm in the same situation. I can't find the terminal end part to purchase it and I don't know what to do about the plastic piece.

 

[arrow]

I'm wondering how all this turned out, I'm in the same situation. I can't find the terminal end part to purchase it and I don't know what to do about the plastic piece. View attachment 417501View attachment 417502View attachment 417503

Your Mahindra dealer will give you an entire new one if under warranty.

 

[Sysop]

If you can't get a replacement or whatever, as a workaround: Pour a little fresh Coke across it will kill off the corrosion. Rinse it with a little distilled water, then apply some anti-ox, no-ox, ox-guard, or some other similar antioxidant corrosion prevention that IS ELECTRICALLY CONDUCTIVE. Do NOT use dielectric grease or other non-conductive material. Corrosion typically starts with a dirty or loose connection that isn't making the greatest of contact, sometimes it is just a poor grade of metal in the contacts. Either way, soaking it in Coke to destroy the layers of oxidation throughout the connection, a rinse in distilled water to remove the components of the cola, and a good coat of a conductive antioxidant should have you back in operation for a while.

 

[JerryK]

When you get a new vehicle with a top post battery.... when everything is clean and shiny new... Tighten up the battery clamps. Then go to your local parts store and buy a can of battery terminal spray. It is a waxy solution that will get into the small cracks around the terminal and the battery case and seal the whole shebang for many many years. I have been doing this since time began, and 99.9999% of my battery terminal problems have vanished.... If this is too much trouble for you, go get a set of side terminal cables and put you in a side terminal battery. My can is so old I had to tape the label back on.... probably from the 60's..

 

[JimRB]

You can get felt washers soaked with anticorrosion that go on the battery before the cable plus small spray cans for the cables at your favorite auto parts store or megabig retail store. Walmart is our local megabig store.

 

[arrow]

When you get a new vehicle with a top post battery.... when everything is clean and shiny new... Tighten up the battery clamps. Then go to your local parts store and buy a can of battery terminal spray. It is a waxy solution that will get into the small cracks around the terminal and the battery case and seal the whole shebang for many many years. I have been doing this since time began, and 99.9999% of my battery terminal problems have vanished.... If this is too much trouble for you, go get a set of side terminal cables and put you in a side terminal battery. My can is so old I had to tape the label back on.... probably from the 60's..

I hair sprayed mine. Mahindra had used a bad batch of batteries from Exide Corp. These batteries leaked at the post insertion and corroded everything it could. They know this and will warranty the battery and the cable for a period of 2 years.

 

[JerryK]

The top of a lead acid battery is a nasty place. Some batteries vent gas or liquid around the battery post, and almost all batteries vent gas or liquid around somewhere.. People have been fighting this problem for over a hundred years. The horror story and pictures you see posted on this site should make you think of doing something everytime you see an unprotected battery.... for the rest of your life. Here is a picture of one of the batteries in a 2001 Dodge Cummins sprayed with non-hardening wax in the fall of 2001, and the picture of a Mahindra 5035 sprayed in 2011.... can't see any corrosion on either... You don't have to use spray wax... but be proactive with some type of solution...

 

[PILOON]

Vaseline, (petroleum jelly) is what was the standard preventative measure B4 everything came in spray cans.
Still works today.