Cost estimate on splitting L4310

[Little Red Tractor]

A few years ago I split a B7500 that had a bad motor. Im fairly mechanically inclined but had never done this type of thing before. I did it by myself in my garage.. I have a very well equipped garage.. so tools were all available when needed.
What I learned fairly quickly is that the bolts you don't think you need to remove.. you do.... Every single one of them.
It was not particularly hard to do.. Just took time to unbolt everything..and take pictures as you go so you can remember where things went and what held them there.
I went full throttle for a couple days pulling it apart.. Spent lots of time looking at stuff trying to figure out how it was attached and in what order it has to come apart.
Then a few days to put it all back together .. Had absolutely no extra pieces when i was finished which is good.
I would imagine your machine may be a bit easier because its bigger and there is more room to get your hands in places to get at bolts.. But the weight of the pieces may take a few more hands to move around.

No extra pieces? I'm truly impressed!

 

[Skrizan]

Slightly off topic, but I have the same issue on a 2004 Kubota L3130, but my leak is slower. It only leaks while using the tractor and leaves a small puddle after parked. ( I started placing a coffee can under it) I changed the fluid when I bought the tractor in 2017 and only added a quart or 2 since. (Only put 200 hours on it in 7 years) I have a cab, so would be an even bigger project. I plan to just let it go. Any problems with that?

 

[Fxfymn413]

Any leak, hydraulic, water, etc. in any application (house, car, tractor, etc.) can really fool you if you don't really take the time to establish exactly where it is coming from. Leaks have a funny way of following a path that can easily fool you into thinking it is something way more major that it really is.

So my advice would be to thoroughly clean the machine and then watch for any tell tale spots that show up anywhere on the machine before you spend a lot of cash trying to fix something that may not need fixing. Every leak eventually ends up at the lowest spot before it drips off, but that doesn't mean that is where it originated.

 

[MaxDirt]

Folks, I have been a long time lurker on this forum but rarely post. I searched this question but didn't quite find exactly what I'm looking for. Here is my question: I have a 2000ish Kubota L4310 that is leaking hydo fluid from the condensation weep hole. It's not too bad, I just add a gallon of Hydro fluid every 6 months or so. That being said I don't expect it to get better. Can you help me with a ballpark if I bring it to the man? The internet tells me this is a leaky seal and you need to split the tractor to get to it. The tractor has no cab. Thanks in advance!

Check with farmers in your area. Most are mechanics. Might get to it in winter

 

[mmranch]

I split my cabbed tractor a few years back (posts here on the forum somewhere) and I'd do it again... but it wouldn't necessarily be fun. Tractor was split to replace leaking input shaft seal.

Dealer gave rough estimate of 5K back in the day. Plus hauling the tractor there and back pushing costs even higher. Not really a practical thing where I live here in the mountains so I did it in my shop. A non-cab tractor would be easier.

For me, the FEL comes off and all sub-frame stuff (FEL and backhoe). Heavy stuff (like FEL mounts) are removed with engine lift. Tractor rear was stationary and front engine side moved with engine lift.

You should also be thinking about whatever else you might want to do while it's split. I put a new clutch in mine (even though I really didn't need one - saved the old clutch it was so good). Inspected the ring gear and it looked great.

But later I'm having starting problems and it's not the starter. May have to split again if it's a worn ring gear... arrrgghh!

 

[Skrizan]

My leak is definitely from the weep hole, no way to tell where it starts without splitting the tractor. Normally this sort of thing drives me nuts and I would have to fix it, but with the amount of work involved I am OK with it. Maybe when I retire in a few years I will decide to tackle it, but if it doesn't get any worse I highly doubt it.

 

[OrangeGuy]

The problem is your front wheel assist shaft seal as it comes into the clutch housing cavity. Tractor has to be split to replace. I had the same issue with my cabbed 4240. I repaired it myself. Not terribly difficult if you have some mechanical knowledge and a couple of floor jacks (I used my Bobcat to remove the cab) and chocks at the front axle so front half doesn't tilt. Get a service manual that explains how to in detail and look for a you tube video of someone who did it. The seal is about the size of a silver dollar. It has a spacer next to it about the same size. Eliminate the spacer and put two seals in. Be careful to keep the back half of the front wheel assist shaft in its place when you split it. Shaft splits just ahead of the clutch housing. Pulling the shaft out of the trans/rearend will drop a coupler into the rearend. Not life and death but a bugger to get back in place. Dealer told me about $3 grand. Parts were minimal. New oil was biggest expense. Good luck

 

[Walter L]

I think I would try Lucas hydrolic seal fix or stop leak , I have used it before with good results.

 

[arto98607]

I split my Ford 1310 during winter of 2006 and would do it again if needed.

It is obviously smaller and perhaps simpler tractor with manual 12-speed transmission, but the same idea.

Factory shop manual, engine hoist, couple of hydraulic jacks, hand tools and some mechanical repair skills are needed.

 

[HammerGrips]

I'm all for protecting the environment and watersheds, but that said, one can buy a ton of hydro fluid for the cost of splitting a tractor. My 4240 has had a leak for years. I keep the fluid full and park it on some cardboard or a mound of kitty litter and all is good.