Cost of 250 gallon tank & pump/meter system.

   / Cost of 250 gallon tank & pump/meter system. #31  
LBrown59 said:
...Here is a close up look at the $99 pump I got on sale for $69 at northern tool.
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk286/lb59/100_2296.jpg...

I was looking at your filter setup. I want to set up my own fueling station and I'm trying to learn as much as I can about how people make their decisions.

Is there any other difference, between the type of filter you're using and the kind that has a clear case with the fluid and filter canister visible, that you can see the amount of sediment residual and being able to remove it with the drain valve below the filter?

Also, it doesn't look like you have a particle filter, just water block. Any particular reason why one and not the other, or instead of the other?
 
   / Cost of 250 gallon tank & pump/meter system. #32  
Rolando said:
I was looking at your filter setup. I want to set up my own fueling station and I'm trying to learn as much as I can about how people make their decisions.

Is there any other difference, between the type of filter you're using and the kind that has a clear case with the fluid and filter canister visible, that you can see the amount of sediment residual and being able to remove it with the drain valve below the filter?

*Also, it doesn't look like you have a particle filter, just water block. Any particular reason why one and not the other, or instead of the other?
*The way I understand it a water block filter will block particles but a particle filter won't block water.
 
   / Cost of 250 gallon tank & pump/meter system. #33  
my coop gave me a raggedy tank on a stilt for free to use... i think it's like 300 gallons? 5' long by 32" or so in diameter.... gravity nozzle and filter on it already... call your local coop and see with them first.....
 
   / Cost of 250 gallon tank & pump/meter system. #34  
Skerby, I paid $75 for the same thing at an auction.

Regarding filters:

I like the transparent plastic filter cannisters with the removable water absorbing filter element. As a previous poster said, a water absorbing filter will stop particulate contamination but a particulate filter will not stop the water.

My filter assy has a petcock to drain the accumulated condensation. The filter elements last a very long time for me as I only use 100-200 gal a year. The dual Fram filters are really good too. They have a water coalescer/separator followed by a particulate filter. You can get the elements in different micron sizes. The smaller single filiter body setups have both filter elements in the one cartridge but the larger ones have the water coalescer/separator and the particulate filter is separate cans. These are superior filters. I have used Raycor filters with good performance too (another clear plastic container.) I like the clear plastic so I can see the condition of the water accumulation and such.

Pat
 
   / Cost of 250 gallon tank & pump/meter system. #35  
I'll also check out the Fram filters, but I found the Goldenrod website and their descriptions for the filters with clear housing. It looks like the filter that only handles particulates removes down to 10 microns, while the water-block filters only filter particulates down to 15 microns. Is this enough of a difference in particulate filtering that should make you hesitate to use only the water-block filter? How efficient a particulate filter do you need to be shooting for? Should you consider going with separate particulate and water filters to reach a good level of performance for both types of filtering?

Probably the pertinent information for my situation is that I live in a climate that gets very hot and humid over the summer (and spring and fall) in north-central Florida. Winter only lasts for about two or three months. The other thing is that I will probably turn over the fuel only about once a year.
 
   / Cost of 250 gallon tank & pump/meter system. #36  
I was able to find this Fram Filter, that handles particulates down to 1 (one) micron, and this Fram Dual Filter that also handles water, but they don't have the clear housing that I was looking for.

It looks like the Frams give higher performance (and a higher price) than the Goldenrods, but you have to give up the clear housing. Is there also a clear Fram filter out there that I haven't found? Or what do you think of the compromise and on which side to come down? I guess with the Fram, you have to plan to drain periodically and wait for flow to slow down to know you need to replace the canister.
 
   / Cost of 250 gallon tank & pump/meter system. #37  
I've only noticed 1 filter on the pumps at the service stations.
Based on that i figured 1 would be enough for my system.

I did however put a screen on the entrance ends of the 2 suction hoses to prevent the bigger stuff from getting into them.

Also how clean is the fuel when you get it and where do you get it?
 
   / Cost of 250 gallon tank & pump/meter system. #38  
I'm going to be getting the fuel from a local oil company that has been around for a long time, like decades. I don't however have any knowledge about their reputation, although there are a few people I would be able to ask, like my tractor dealer.
 
   / Cost of 250 gallon tank & pump/meter system. #39  
Rolando said:
I'm going to be getting the fuel from a local oil company that has been around for a long time, like decades. I don't however have any knowledge about their reputation, although there are a few people I would be able to ask, like my tractor dealer.
Mine will be coming from the local Ashland/Marthion bulk plant about 7 miles from me.
They only have one red fuel available and it's used in diesel engines and home furnaces.
There are 3 distributors hauling from that bulk plant so I'd say a large volume of fuel is being turned over there so the fuel should be very fresh.
That being the case I feel the filter I'm using is probably more than adequate.

I'm very familiar with this bulk plant as I worked for a bottled gas company delivering 100 LP gas tanks to rural homes back in 1961 and 1962 and would visit this plant every morning to load up the truck I drove with 100 pound cylinders.
 
   / Cost of 250 gallon tank & pump/meter system. #40  
Although there is only one filter body visible at service stations that is no proof that a single filter is optimum. Every large diesel engine I ever saw in marine service had both a water filter and particulate filter. Fram was a favorite. Lots of 18 wheelers run a separate water coalescer/separater and particulate filter.

The Frams are in steel bottles but if you periodically open the drain and let the condensate out you don't really need to see inside the cannister.

Don't confuse the coalescer/separator with a water absorber type filter. A water absorber absorbs the water until it can hold no more and then you are not protected. They work well until exhausted. The coalescer coalesces the moisture into droplets large enough for the water separator to separate out from the fuel. With a particulate filter up stream of the water coalescer/separator you rarely plug up the separator.

I thought Fram had cartridges down to 1/2 micron but it has been a while so maybe it was 1 micron. With filtration, more is better but there is a point after which you will not receive a practical return on increased filtration. I would not go courser than 5 micron nor finer than 1 micron but that is my personal preference. Some guys would pour diesel fuel through a roll of toilet paper endwise and be happy.

Pat
 

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