Cost of construction.

   / Cost of construction. #21  
9' high is kind of an odd size, go at least 10'. Also, one bag of concrete per pole might not be enough. My county made me put 20" round by 8" deep footers under each post. My barn is 30 x 48 x 12 cost ~ 11k materials if I remember right plus cost of garage doors.
 
   / Cost of construction. #22  
here is a ball park for the material from the place I'm looking at.

30x48x9
4x6 pole, 8 o.c.
1 bag of secrete per pole
2x6 skirtboards, 2 rows
2x4 side nailers 24 o.c.
2x4 roof purlins, 24 o.c
Trusse 8 oc 3 5/12

I think 29 ga metal.
Insulation, 1/4" Fan Fold on roof.

2 ag winds, 3x2 with screens
1 36 entry door.
2 9x7 overhead doors

Approximate cost $7K.


Wedge

30x48 is a good size.

4x6 post will work, but 6x6 are better. They stay straight better, and will be stiffer. Especiallly 8 ft apart.

How deep do you have to go for your posts? I'd budget three sacks per hole, but hope to use just two. Holes will need to be three feet deep at a minimum with four feet being better in some climates. find out what is needed in your area.

Why do you want to use two 2x6's for your skirt, or bottom boards? The cost of one 2x12 is the same as two 2x6's. I'd base the size of this board on how much change in height you have around the barn.

You call them side nailers, I call them purlins. Going 8 ft with a 2x4 is going to give you some movement in time. I would use 2x6's that are 16 feet long and overlap the ends when attaching them to the posts. Put them up every four feet if you are using metal for siding. If you are using wood or a sheet product, then go 24 inchs.

Same thing with your roof purlins. You'll never get 2x4's on their edge to last with an 8ft span. I'd use 2x6's that are 16 ft long and overlap the ends. Put them every four feet if you are using metal R panels.

I wouldnt' use the thin metal. 26 gauge is prett good and if you only want to do this once, it's worth the extra money for the thicker metal. The metal is going to be more then you expect. Not only do you buy the panels, but you need screws for fastening the metal to the wood, and the metal to the metal. If your pitch is shallow, you'll need to seal the overlap. If it's steeper, 4:12 or more, it's not needed. You'll need edge trim, ridge caps and vents. Gutters can be added later, but are a good idea if you can keep them cleaned out.

Shop around for windows. We have stores that sell regects and other stores that sell used windows. Allot of the time you can find brand new windows for half price at the lumber yards where the contractors buy from. Either the homeowner changed their mind in what they wanted, or somebody messed up on the order. Either way, if your not picking on size, color or style, you can get some very good windows for a big savings this way.

36 in walk through door is a good idea.

9x7 shop door is just begging for regrets. 9ft wide is tight, but doable if that's all that will fit. 7 ft tall is going to be a huge mistake. That's how tall a standard residential garage is, and you don't want that in your shop. With nine foot ceilings, you can go 8ft for the shop doors. That's still too small, but if you are set on the low ceiling, that might limit your door height.

Where will the shop doors go? If it's at the gable ends, then you can go up another foot and have the opening at the very height of the celing if you put in a roll up door. Given a choice, I'll always pick a roll up door over any other style.

For you ceiling height, why 9ft? Are you thinking that your posts will be 12 ft tall and you'll put them in 3ft? While this would be the cheapest way to go, it's also going to be just a little on the low side, and a source of frustration over the years. You can build this as cheap as possible, or you can build it as something that you'll get good use out of the rest of your life without any regrets. I'd buy those 6x6 posts 16 feet long. This will give you 12 feet to the ceiling. Trust me, that's not very tall, and for a really usable space to work in, 12 ft is ideal.

12ft to the ceiling will allow you to have ten foot tall doors!!! This will let you drive just about anythng into your shop that you will need to work on. My door is 10x10 and it's just right. I had one in my previous shop that was 12 ft wide, and that was easier to back my trailer into, but not such a huge difference that I went that big again. With ten feet wide, I have just a big more wall space for my welder and garbage can.

You'll find that no matter how big you make it, you'll soon use up every inch of it and wish you had more space. If it's getting too expensive, you can always do the posts and get the roof on this year, then do the walls the following year.

I always tell my clients to tell me what they really want. Not what they think they can afford. Then we work on what it will take to make that happen.

Eddie
 
   / Cost of construction.
  • Thread Starter
#23  
I guess I should have clarified.. This is NOT what I plan on building. I have not figured everything out yet. Sort of why I started the thread. It was just a basic package that they offer. Like all of the companies they will build what you ask, it just going to cost a little more.

I plan on 32x48x12 as far as over all size.
And at least one 10x16 overhead door, but will see if the budget can allow for two.

Not sure why they use 2 2x6 skirts. I wonder if 2 of these are cheaper then one 2x12. I think the the one place makes its own lumber as well.

Eddie This just the start.. I really need something to get under roof. Then as money allows I'll finish it. I do plan on having a 4" slab with radiant heat installed. Again heat source to be installed at a later date. In the mean time a couple of well place hanging tarps and propane heater can do wonders to warm the place up in the winter for use.

To make sure I dont put too much in there prior to the floor being poured, I'm going to leave it just plain old dirt/clay.

Also I have easy access to water and septic, so a regular bathroom with shower is planned as well.

I'm only about 100' from my power meter and maybe 150' from the pole, so I will decide which to run from. I plan on 100 amp service at minimum but will see what the difference is to run 200 amp.. I'm guessing not much?

I'm going to start putting all my building requirements on paper and take that in for estimates. When I think I have my requirements I'll post them here and let you guys comment.

There are two Amish builders within 10 mile of each other and they really like to compete, but from what I'm told prices are usually with a $100 or so.

They sell building material but have a dedicated crew for pole barns. Guy at work had a 48x102 or something like that built in a little over 2 days. We were talking and he figured they could put something my size in a day, maybe a little more. I dont think they split time between multiple jobs, they will give an estimated start date and then show up for start to finish.

Thanks for all the input so far.
Wedge
 
Last edited:
   / Cost of construction. #24  
Whew. Now I can go to sleep. I was worried you were going with such small doors, it was keeping me up. ;)

Sounds like you are planning well. It's gotta fit a budget, but it needs to be useful as well, if it's only the cheapsest thing one can build, it might not actually be worth that! :)

Are you in a situation where you can deduct it for taxes? Like farming, or self employed or something. Sometimes that piecemeal building can really help, take advantage of some of the tax rules to deduct more every year, instead of small deductions spread over 20 years. But - that's a whole 'nother discussion.

--->Paul
 
   / Cost of construction. #25  
30x48 is a good size.

4x6 post will work, but 6x6 are better. They stay straight better, and will be stiffer. Especiallly 8 ft apart.

How deep do you have to go for your posts? I'd budget three sacks per hole, but hope to use just two. Holes will need to be three feet deep at a minimum with four feet being better in some climates. find out what is needed in your area.

Why do you want to use two 2x6's for your skirt, or bottom boards? The cost of one 2x12 is the same as two 2x6's. I'd base the size of this board on how much change in height you have around the barn.

You call them side nailers, I call them purlins. Going 8 ft with a 2x4 is going to give you some movement in time. I would use 2x6's that are 16 feet long and overlap the ends when attaching them to the posts. Put them up every four feet if you are using metal for siding. If you are using wood or a sheet product, then go 24 inchs.

Same thing with your roof purlins. You'll never get 2x4's on their edge to last with an 8ft span. I'd use 2x6's that are 16 ft long and overlap the ends. Put them every four feet if you are using metal R panels.

I wouldnt' use the thin metal. 26 gauge is prett good and if you only want to do this once, it's worth the extra money for the thicker metal. The metal is going to be more then you expect. Not only do you buy the panels, but you need screws for fastening the metal to the wood, and the metal to the metal. If your pitch is shallow, you'll need to seal the overlap. If it's steeper, 4:12 or more, it's not needed. You'll need edge trim, ridge caps and vents. Gutters can be added later, but are a good idea if you can keep them cleaned out.

Shop around for windows. We have stores that sell regects and other stores that sell used windows. Allot of the time you can find brand new windows for half price at the lumber yards where the contractors buy from. Either the homeowner changed their mind in what they wanted, or somebody messed up on the order. Either way, if your not picking on size, color or style, you can get some very good windows for a big savings this way.

36 in walk through door is a good idea.

9x7 shop door is just begging for regrets. 9ft wide is tight, but doable if that's all that will fit. 7 ft tall is going to be a huge mistake. That's how tall a standard residential garage is, and you don't want that in your shop. With nine foot ceilings, you can go 8ft for the shop doors. That's still too small, but if you are set on the low ceiling, that might limit your door height.

Where will the shop doors go? If it's at the gable ends, then you can go up another foot and have the opening at the very height of the celing if you put in a roll up door. Given a choice, I'll always pick a roll up door over any other style.

For you ceiling height, why 9ft? Are you thinking that your posts will be 12 ft tall and you'll put them in 3ft? While this would be the cheapest way to go, it's also going to be just a little on the low side, and a source of frustration over the years. You can build this as cheap as possible, or you can build it as something that you'll get good use out of the rest of your life without any regrets. I'd buy those 6x6 posts 16 feet long. This will give you 12 feet to the ceiling. Trust me, that's not very tall, and for a really usable space to work in, 12 ft is ideal.

12ft to the ceiling will allow you to have ten foot tall doors!!! This will let you drive just about anythng into your shop that you will need to work on. My door is 10x10 and it's just right. I had one in my previous shop that was 12 ft wide, and that was easier to back my trailer into, but not such a huge difference that I went that big again. With ten feet wide, I have just a big more wall space for my welder and garbage can.

You'll find that no matter how big you make it, you'll soon use up every inch of it and wish you had more space. If it's getting too expensive, you can always do the posts and get the roof on this year, then do the walls the following year.

I always tell my clients to tell me what they really want. Not what they think they can afford. Then we work on what it will take to make that happen.

Eddie

Eddie,

Almost every building around here with 8',9', and 10' spacing has 2x4's on edge.

I am curious what you mean by "never get 2x4's on their edge to last with an 8ft span"?

How do you fasten 16' 2x6's to the truss?
 
   / Cost of construction. #26  
A 2x4 on edge will sag over time when only supported at the ends. I've seen it on fences, railings and roofs. I don't know your area, or what you've seen. I wouldn't do it.

Eddie
 
   / Cost of construction. #27  
I love these discussions!!! :)

Eddie's last post pointed out a long list of things that need considered. Each cost money. Wedge's $7K building almost doubled under Eddie's scrutiny. That's perfectly normal and understandable.

I agreed with everything Eddie offered with one exception. You can double park in a 12' wide doorway if needed, it's almost impossible in a 10', the difference in cost is very small. My old building had a 10' door and a 12' door. I hated the 10', always had to be careful. This time all doors are 12'.

Also, there is a thread running around here somewhere with a bunch of pictures concerning driving an 8' tall tractor thru a 7' tall door. Go tall, go wide. :)

I went thru the same processes with my building. Started planning a smaller building with smaller doors, fewer windows, thinner concrete, no hot water, minimal lighting, etc., etc. As I planned I made a very important decision. I decided to build what I wanted/needed and adjust the finances accordingly. When I was done I had my idea of a perfect building and it was empty. Nine months later it's full. Sure glad I built what I needed/wanted and didn't cut corners.

It's really expensive to add on or cut new doors in or chisel concrete or vault trusses after it's completed. I enjoy these debates and am always interested in seeing the end result. :)
 
   / Cost of construction. #28  
Separately I want to comment on the Amish. Here in my community they offer materials or will do the whole package including construction or will do the construction with your materials, very flexible. That's the good part.

The bad part is they bend their own metal. They purchase rolls of steel that are blems or thin gauge (29) or are painted with interior quality paint. They have a machine to press out the panels and sell them at considerable savings. A close inspection reveals flaws in the quality of the finished panels with variations in the ribs and size. The panels built from inside panel material fade very quickly. In every case a drive-by will spot the difference in an Amish building and a commercially purchased building. People around here hire them all the time, they are always busy. I can't live with their standards. I think they are a perfect example of you get what you pay for. :eek:

I guess I just have a problem with someone's values that condemns me for owning a gas powered machine but who ride in one to get to their work site. Or someone who comdemns me for having electricity, but gladly will use mine during construction. Hmmmmm, what values will they instill in their product or work?? Hmmmm.... :)
 
   / Cost of construction. #29  
A 2x4 on edge will sag over time when only supported at the ends. I've seen it on fences, railings and roofs. I don't know your area, or what you've seen. I wouldn't do it.

Eddie

I agree, it depends on your area, but here in Northern Missouri, a late winter, 6-8" wet snow laying on your roof will definitely sag 2x4 roof girts. :eek:
 
   / Cost of construction.
  • Thread Starter
#30  
The metal they use is guarenteed for 50 years. I figure that's pretty good. I will also price out the difference between 29 and 26 ga, because they offer both.

Wedge
 

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