Cost of construction.

[EddieWalker]

I had a 20" overhang on my first shop to match my house design. I was planning an addition to it when I lost it. In the planning stages I didn't consider the overhang to be a problem when adding on to the eave side of the building. With that said, and money availability considered, it is always easier to build the whole thing at once rather than add on later. It might also be cheaper. Maybe Eddie can address that??

I've added a couple of porches to homes with metal roofs, and can comment on those, but I've never built a leanto for a client who had an existing building to work off of.

The only concers for the lean to would be supporting the rafters and sliding the new metal for the leanto under the existing metal. With the big overhang, that becomes real easy to slide the metal in, and make it weather tite if you keep the same pitch. This might be important because the height of the walls and the pitch of the roof will dictate how far you can go out to get a certain height at the end of the leanto. My shop has 12 foot walls and a 4:12 pitch. I went out 12 feet and had 8ft for the height at the end of the leanto. That was part of my original plan and why I built like I did.

With metal R panels and a decent pitch, 12 inches is plenty of metal for an overlap to be water tight. If you have a shallow pitch and/or less metal, then sealing it with a good quality roofing sealant is advisable. I like a clear product called Through the Roof, but have also had excellent results with Henry products from Home Depot. One of them is designed for flashing and metal product, but I forget which one. It's grey and miserable stuff to get off your fingers or anything else that gets on it, but it's very, very good at keeping out water. The clear, Through the Roof stuff is easier to work with and not nearly as messy.

Depending on what your walls are made of, you will need a way to support the rafters. You can either plan for and make roof for them to sit on top of the same beams that the roof is sitting on, or you can add a ledger board and use joist hangers for the rafters. Planning for this now will make it allot easier and cheaper when you get around to adding on the leanto.

Eddie

 

[Lt CHEG]

I've got a quick question about material costs. I'm looking to build a place to store my tractor, implements, ATV, snowmobile and trailer. I'm figuring something along the lines of 24x32x10 or possibly 24x40x10. If I go with the 24x40x10 the last 10 feet will only be enclosed on 3 sides as my place to store the snowmobile trailer and the bush hog or mower depending on what is being used, and potentially a snowblower too. Also this will provide secure storage for tools and building materials when we build our new house in a year and a half or two.

Anyhow, for several reasons (the largest two being that I want to pay cash for the building and don't want to make the building too nice and driving my already ridiculous property taxes up any higher) I will not be putting a concrete floor in right away. It may come later or not at all as I would likely do any wrenching in my garage anyhow as I don't plan on working on anything bigger than my cars and trucks or sleds and ATV's. The most work I'll be doing on my tractor is greasing it and changing fluids. One thing that my wife insists upon though is that the building not be sheathed in metal. I must admit that I don't really want metal siding for this application either. Anyhow she's willing to compromise with T111 siding painted to match the eventual house for now and then eventually we can put vinyl siding up over the T111.

So, the question is, how much more can I expect to spend on building materials to use T111 sheating instead of metal? I've looked at a couple of kits from lumber yards around here and they say to figure for probably 50% more cost to sheath with wood over metal. Does this seem about right? I also know that basically all I'm getting is a shelter with these kits, and that is okay. I don't even have electricity to the building location yet so that's not a concern for a while either. This is basically going to be used for nothing more than a glorified garage long term in addition to the 3 car garage that will be going on our house. The building will likely be within about 100 feet of the house so I can add electricity later, and in reality don't need it for anything more than lighting and maybe two circuits for outlets that I could plug a block heater into anyhow. We don't want the building to be out of scale with the house also so that keeps size in check. Also my wife abhors RV's and would never let me buy anything bigger than a small travel trailer or pop up camper anyway so I don't need to house anything taller than my tractor or snowmobile trailer. Oh and I'm not really a boat guy either so I don't need to worry about fitting a boat in there either. A waverunner is the biggest water going vessel that I would ever own. And as I stated previously we're going to have a 3 car attached garage which will have extra space for a work bench and rolling tool storage so really the attached garage will be my shop. So keeping that in mind and leaning towards a 24x40x10 building, does a 50% premium to a kit price for T111 sheating instead of metal sound about right? As always thanks in advance.

 

[EddieWalker]

Have you ever owned anything with T1-11 on it?

I would have thought that it would be a bit cheaper them metal, but haven't priced it out. I won't use it myself.

James Hardi is a cement/fiber type material that you can get in 4x8 sheets that looks like T1-11, but will hold paint and never rot on you. It's more money up front, but allot cheaper then replacing the T1-11 when it starts to rot, warp or just fall apart.

If you want a really nice look, then the James Hardi lap siding is very nice. More money, but when done, it will be a building that you'll be proud of the rest of your life.

Eddie

 

[Lt CHEG]

Have you ever owned anything with T1-11 on it?

I would have thought that it would be a bit cheaper them metal, but haven't priced it out. I won't use it myself.

James Hardi is a cement/fiber type material that you can get in 4x8 sheets that looks like T1-11, but will hold paint and never rot on you. It's more money up front, but allot cheaper then replacing the T1-11 when it starts to rot, warp or just fall apart.

Eddie

Honestly, outside of a garden shed, no really haven't owned anything in T1-11. I know it isn't ideal, but I'm afraid that if I end up building with board and batten that we will eventually be disappointed that the walls of the building won't exactly match the walls of the house. My thoughts were that we could put up T1-11 now and have something that looks nice enough for a couple of years. Then once we're in the new house, we can wrap the T1-11 and put vinyl siding that matches the house over it.

As for the James Hardi stuff, before we bought the land that we did buy we looked at land in a subdivision that would not allow vinyl siding. Nobody in the subdivision wanted to deal with wood siding so everyone used some sort of cement type siding. I'm pretty sure that James Hardi was mentioned as the brand that was most commonly used. I also know that everyone seemed pleased with it and it looked great. So if this would work for our application, it's a definite possibility. Just so I got things straight, are you saying that I could use the Hardie Panel as my sheathing and then not have to put siding on over it? Thanks.

 

[SOS]

I'm also looking at buidling 24x40x10 and the builder quoted me at $1,038 for adding hardi board on it. They said it has a lifetime warranty.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Do not waste your money on a 12' building. If you are going to do it do it right and get a 14' building with a 14' tall door. Ask me how I know???? I built a 12' tall building saying I will never need a 14' door. I kick myself every day. Boat sits in the drive in the summer and I pay to store it every winter.

I also would now like a 2 post lift but can not really do so with trying to lift large vehicles like my F-350 or SUV's.

I did do one thing right and do a single piece 12 tall by 20 wide slider along with the standard garage door you see in the picture alone with a identical one on the back side.

Chris

 

[dave1949]

Do not waste your money on a 12' building. If you are going to do it do it right and get a 14' building with a 14' tall door. Ask me how I know???? I built a 12' tall building saying I will never need a 14' door. I kick myself every day. Boat sits in the drive in the summer and I pay to store it every winter.

I also would now like a 2 post lift but can not really do so with trying to lift large vehicles like my F-350 or SUV's.

I did do one thing right and do a single piece 12 tall by 20 wide slider along with the standard garage door you see in the picture alone with a identical one on the back side.

Chris

Maybe your boat is too big? It's the devil's choice on how high to make a building, that's for sure. Another thing I always think of is it is silly to build a shed that isn't at least big enough to park a pickup truck or tractor in. Like, if you could really use a 16' long shed, add another 8'.
Dave.

 

[dcyrilc]

I have to agree about the wall height. Our first barn, my shop, has a 10x10 door in the gable wall with a 10 foot ceiling. Worked great to work on things out of the weather, until my wife decided she wanted a motorhome for camping. It's 10ft 6" tall. Guess who gets to work on it in the rain. Speaking of which, I have to replace the headlights on it this weekend - and it's suppose to RAIN!! Ugh.

The barn I'm building now has a 12x12 roll up door so that I can at least have a dry place I can work on the motorhome. Go for the extra height.

 

[wedge40]

I can guarantee I will never have a boat that big to get inside. If (and it's a big if) I ever get a motor home part of the cost will include the price to build something to put it in. I think you lose some of the aesthetics of the building when it gets out of symmetry. I do understand the practical aspect of a really tall building, but I'm going to stick with 12'.

Wedge

 

[newbury]

Have you ever owned anything with T1-11 on it?

I would have thought that it would be a bit cheaper them metal, but haven't priced it out. I won't use it myself.

James Hardi is a cement/fiber type material that you can get in 4x8 sheets that looks like T1-11, but will hold paint and never rot on you. It's more money up front, but allot cheaper then replacing the T1-11 when it starts to rot, warp or just fall apart.

If you want a really nice look, then the James Hardi lap siding is very nice. More money, but when done, it will be a building that you'll be proud of the rest of your life.

Eddie

When I first built my little shed in about 1984 I was younger The county required permits for 150 sq ft and more. Drew up my own plans and sunk about every nail into the T1-11. It only got painted twice, original and about 10 years old. It held up pretty well, didn't require siding. But I replaced it a few years ago with the Hardi. This should last thirty years. Hardi is great stuff, looks good, paints well and the bugs don't like it. But boy does it go thru saw blades