Counterweight build

[Aquamoose]

Had some 8” square tubing lying around and decided to use them for my counterweight. Instead of concrete, I decided to just use sand. It’s 4’ wide and has a receiver hitch. I also had two cargo tie downs from a Chevy Suburban which were used to provide lifting points during the build. It’s secured with 3/8”-18 bolts. I may use the same attachment points to allow me to switch the tie downs for a wood sacrificial platform so I can use it for my chainsaw mount & sharpening station. I’ll be exploring ways to store chain holders, chokers, and logging tongs to it. I don’t plan on skidding or winching anything.

The “quick hitch” is so I can keep the counterweight tight against the lift arms for better maneuvering among trees. It can be picked up & dropped off without getting off the tractor. I do plan to install a locking pin to keep it from hopping off.

Next stages are welding chain hooks before caulking the gaps between the tubes before primer & paint.

It’s a work in progress so I’ll be updating as I go.

 

[Clintock]

I like the build. Especially since it doesn’t stick out from rear of tractor. Sure gonna make it easier to maneuver through the woods. Storing chains on it would be simple. Weld a few hooks on the top and let the chain sweep down between hooks. Like hanging Christmas lights. Plus 4 hooks would give different areas to pull from. Or you could always weld another piece of tubing to top with a hinge door plate on both sides.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Very nice job ! Pushing 1000lbs or am I way off ????

gg

 

[WranglerX]

Only thing I see is you probably need some pins or bolts to secure it to the attachment....IF ballast weight is low and you run over a bump it could lift off the angle brackets..... I had a issue where I tipped over my 600 pound ballast and found out my SCUT FEL lift limit is a bit less than the weight...

 

[oosik]

Nice, neat, tight. That's what I was wondering - weight??

Approximate weights.......
Tubing - - 200#
Sand - - 960#
Hitches, tubing end plates, hooks - - ??

Assuming the tubing is 8"x8"x 1/4" wall thickness - 195# to 200#
Dry sand - - 100# per cubic foot

 

[Aquamoose]

Very nice job ! Pushing 1000lbs or am I way off ????

Good estimate!

gg

Only thing I see is you probably need some pins or bolts to secure it to the attachment....IF ballast weight is low and you run over a bump it could lift off the angle brackets..... I had a issue where I tipped over my 600 pound ballast and found out my SCUT FEL lift limit is a bit less than the weight...

You missed my original comment about addressing that possibility. When raised to a full height, it’s approximately 18”.

 

[Smokeydog]

Great fabrication using what you have on hand. Boxed framing gives considerable strength.

Love to use square tubing for carrying tools. Can easily add vertical tubing for chainsaw, tools or chain pockets.

If the tubes were vertical? Some?

Good cutting sand blasting sand weighs almost twice as much as regular sand. I’ve collected metal sharps, saw dust, scrap, plasma cutting dust for ballast. A baseball cap amount weighs about 50#. Steel shot not too expensive either. Used almost free.

 

[LD1]

Nice, neat, tight. That's what I was wondering - weight??

Approximate weights.......
Tubing - - 200#
Sand - - 960#
Hitches, tubing end plates, hooks - - ??

Assuming the tubing is 8"x8"x 1/4" wall thickness - 195# to 200#
Dry sand - - 100# per cubic foot

I'm giving the metal 250# total cause if the attach points, end plates, etc.

But how are you getting 9.6 cu ft of sand. I'm only coming up with about 6.25. (assuming 7.5" square inside)

Nice build though. Kinda like a delta hitch. I always though the Delta hitch was a really nice idea. Self centering and easy hookup rather than modern quick hitches that if you are an inch off it's a no go...trying to like up one triangle seems easier than 3 hooks with 3 pins

 

[TractorGuy]

Looks good!

Since we all have some advice that might be needed: You might want to weld the top to the square tube. That much weight has a lot of stress on the top link connection.

I built a frame and used 2 inch 1/4 wall tube at the top link. Mine weights in right around 1200 lbs. It bent the tube at the top link. Mine protrudes out the rear so I have to adjust the top link to use it. I Will cut it up and fix one day.

 

[LD1]

Looks good!

Since we all have some advice that might be needed: You might want to weld the top to the square tube. That much weight has a lot of stress on the top link connection.

I built a frame and used 2 inch 1/4 wall tube at the top link. Mine weights in right around 1200 lbs. It bent the tube at the top link. Mine protrudes out the rear so I have to adjust the top link to use it. I Will cut it up and fix one day.

As close as the weight is to the tractor, there should be very little force in the toplink.

Not sure what you are suggesting he weld? Anymore weld and it will no longer be his version of a quick hitch setup

 

[WranglerX]

You missed my original comment about addressing that possibility. When raised to a full height, it’s approximately 18”.

You win, missed the "locking pin" comment in original post...

 

[Aquamoose]

You win, missed the "locking pin" comment in original post...

It’s all good. I too have skimmed conversations and based replies on pics I’ve seen.

 

[71bronco]

Instead of welding hooks on I would weld a 3 x3 angle iron on the top with slots cut in vertically every 6'' or so. Will hold chains better than hooks.
A hitch would be nice too.

Jeff

 

[ljjhouser]

Nice project - CLEAN work and EXCELLENT welds. good job. You may have come close to answering the question - How to add ballast and use 3 point. If it was not quite as tall and had pins on the back. Maybe. Like to see it when you have it painted. And, of course total weight.

 

[ruffdog]

Nice and big.....get behind it if someone is shooting at you.

 

[kpsp50]

Nice build

 

[Aquamoose]

I admit I have OCD in the design while fabricating brackets & such to the ballast. I’ve got done figuring out what I’d like to store on it while not overly “crowding it” with unnecessary items. I did add two hooks up front. I don’t plan on skidding anything

The following will be carried:

- 20” Husky Rancher
- Choker
- 8 ft 5/16” binder chain
- Logging tongs
- Timberjack
- Small box to hold odds n’ ends

My smaller 16” Stihl, oil/gas, and bar chain oil already has a place on the tractor.

Progress pics… it’s primed so it’s NOT the final color.

Stay tuned!

 

[oosik]

Hey - I LIKE that primed color. Be careful - that project is becoming so very nice - you might want to mount it on the porch. As an "object de art".

 

[Smokeydog]

Great fabrication. Nothing beats specially designed and built equipment.

Built a 3pt weight 40 years to help 2wd tractors log and FEL work. Hot water heater tank filled with scrap steel, RR rail and concrete. Plate bottom. Often had to skid the ballast on the ground using to balance and sometimes lower the center of gravity. Pulling logs chained high, hand on 3pt lift to control front end lift and steering with rear brakes. Ballast dragging on the ground when needed. My point being, think about how your ballast engages the ground. Might want some ski, edge tamer type ends on your feet? Don’t want it digging in unnecessarily.

Long tool, like cant hook or ax holder?

Hooks for buckets always helpful. Buckets are my portable tool and part boxes for a variety of jobs.

 

[Aquamoose]

Hey - I LIKE that primed color. Be careful - that project is becoming so very nice - you might want to mount it on the porch. As an "object de art".

Just about! I now want to add a certain finishing touch,… you’ll know when you see it. Now I wait for the paint to dry…