Counterweight to Avoid Rollover?

[Bill_in_MI]

I even thought about clamping down on a log ...offset in the bucket...with my 4 in 1 bucket. I have done this before by accident on flat ground and could feel the tipping torque at work. Just don't know if I want to rely on the bucket maintaining the "bite" It would be pretty easy to bump the joystick and drop the load somehow. Thanks. My barrell actually may be 30 gallons and it is filled with sand and water.

 

[Bill_in_MI]

I even thought about clamping down on a log ...offset in the bucket...with my 4 in 1 bucket. I have done this before by accident on flat ground and could feel the tipping torque at work. Just don't know if I want to rely on the bucket maintaining the "bite" It would be pretty easy to bump the joystick and drop the load somehow. Thanks. My barrell actually may be 30 gallons and it is filled with sand and water.

 

[Soundguy]

I've seen county tractors with boom mowers for doing ditches and WRA with big side counterweights.. probably mostly to offset mower.. however I'm sure it helps some with stability mowing on an edge.. etc..

Soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

I've seen county tractors with boom mowers for doing ditches and WRA with big side counterweights.. probably mostly to offset mower.. however I'm sure it helps some with stability mowing on an edge.. etc..

Soundguy

 

[bbse]

I have steep hills also. Luckily, I can go up and down most of mine. Two things though, my tractors have all been more stable with the loaders off. I do not cut with the loader unless it is thick stuff and I need to knock it down. I have cut sidewayways on some very steep parts close to the bottom of the hill just to test stability and I find that I will start sliding before I it starts tipping. I never push beyond that. As soon as I feel it start to slide I loose my nerve and turn downhill. I also found I can cut at a diagonal angle and up and down in a compromise fashion and do fairly well.

 

[bbse]

I have steep hills also. Luckily, I can go up and down most of mine. Two things though, my tractors have all been more stable with the loaders off. I do not cut with the loader unless it is thick stuff and I need to knock it down. I have cut sidewayways on some very steep parts close to the bottom of the hill just to test stability and I find that I will start sliding before I it starts tipping. I never push beyond that. As soon as I feel it start to slide I loose my nerve and turn downhill. I also found I can cut at a diagonal angle and up and down in a compromise fashion and do fairly well.

 

[beenthere]

If 25° slope, and the power rake on the 3pt, I'd just go on the slope without a counterweight. Keep the power rake low (not raised high) as well as the loader kept low.
If a counterweight can be easily attached, I'd go ahead, but would think twice about water as it will slosh around. A dead weight would be my preference.

 

[beenthere]

If 25° slope, and the power rake on the 3pt, I'd just go on the slope without a counterweight. Keep the power rake low (not raised high) as well as the loader kept low.
If a counterweight can be easily attached, I'd go ahead, but would think twice about water as it will slosh around. A dead weight would be my preference.

 

[Henro]

<font color="blue"> would think twice about water as it will slosh around. A dead weight would be my preference. </font>

Nit picking I know... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif...but if the barrel were full, or say 99% full, there would be VERY little sloshing to worry about. As compared to the sloshing that one might encounter in tires that were only half full, for example.

 

[Henro]

<font color="blue"> would think twice about water as it will slosh around. A dead weight would be my preference. </font>

Nit picking I know... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif...but if the barrel were full, or say 99% full, there would be VERY little sloshing to worry about. As compared to the sloshing that one might encounter in tires that were only half full, for example.