cpvc plumbing

Raspy · Nov 23, 2015

clemsonfor said:
Your thinking of polybutelyne pipe that grey stuff with the crimps bands that failed. i think it was an early try at a cross bwtween pex and cpvc, The bands let go and ruined many houses. There was a huge class aciton law suit over it. That was the stuff they used in trailers also.

I guess the polybutylene tube has some problems, but I've never seen any. My use of it was in closed loop radiant systems that are now as much as 35 years old with no tubing problems. It could be that domestic water and it's chemicals were not compatible with poly. The plastic fittings definitely had problems though and I steered clear of them. It wasn't the copper crimp rings, it was the acetal fittings that cracked or melted and weakened. Some crimp rings were aluminum, which could have been a problem in salty conditions.

Copper crimp rings and brass insert barbed fittings and an excellent way of connecting PEX. I've used many hundreds of them with no problems ever. Stainless cinch rings are fine too as far as I can tell.

clemsonfor · Nov 25, 2015

Raspy said:
I guess the polybutylene tube has some problems, but I've never seen any. My use of it was in closed loop radiant systems that are now as much as 35 years old with no tubing problems. It could be that domestic water and it's chemicals were not compatible with poly. The plastic fittings definitely had problems though and I steered clear of them. It wasn't the copper crimp rings, it was the acetal fittings that cracked or melted and weakened. Some crimp rings were aluminum, which could have been a problem in salty conditions.

Copper crimp rings and brass insert barbed fittings and an excellent way of connecting PEX. I've used many hundreds of them with no problems ever. Stainless cinch rings are fine too as far as I can tell.

It was all in the condos that were built in the 80s that my mom lived in. The downstairs unit below us had one connection fail and flooded that floor and bathroom, caused a good bit of damage if i remember. The whole things were redone for that reason and they had verticle cedar siding that allowed water in and a good bit of rot, so those two issues cause a total exterior rebuild.

Deere Dude · Nov 25, 2015

I had to install some 1" PVC for some deionized water in a factory a while back. That day I was given 2 cute female helpers and worked on this pipe with them in the scissors lift by the ceiling. I must have not had my mind on the job because a day later one of the glued fittings blew apart and flooded a big area of the factory before I could shut it off. The fitting slipped apart half way before the glue was dry and through my inattentiveness I missed it. Of course I was having fun anyway.

crazyal · Nov 26, 2015

I used the stainless side cinch ring style. They have a lock so when you've crimped them enough they lock so they can't come undone. Plus it's an easy way to know you've crimped it enough. I only used PEX for the radiant heating and copper for the domestic water. But back then PEX was mainly used for heating and I didn't want to learn the hard way how not to install PEX. Now I would just use PEX.

jchewie · Nov 30, 2015

I plumbed a cottage with it 15 years ago.
Then I replaced 40 year old galvanized plumbing with CPVC in my previous house, that was 11 years ago.
Then I replaced 25 year old polybutylene in my current house with CPVC.

No plastic taste.
Goes together quick and easy.
Don't use old CPVC cement or cement that has been frozen.
Use the (relatively expensive) CPVC to brass transitions wherever you might happen to need NPT fittings ESPECIALLY FEMALE NPT!!!
Use brass ball valves as well.

CPVC does expand with temperature change so you may have some ticking if you have a piece buried in the wall run through several studs.

After plumbing a hot water heating system in this house, any future plumbing work elsewhere will be all pex, homerun style, with copper crimp rings and brass fittings.

Hill Farmer · Nov 30, 2015

Cord said:
Anybody have cpvc plumbing in their home? Can you taste or smell the plastic? Would you use it again?

Yes. No. Yes.

rtimgray · Dec 2, 2015

I've really enjoyed reading this thread, because it seems to be relatively regional what products are preferred. PEX is still relatively rare in my area, although not unheard of. I've used PVC and CPVC for going on 25 years, with no problems besides freezing. I had my PVC water line underneath my old mobile home freeze when it was very cold and my heat tape quit working.

In our new home (and addition) all I used was CPVC with brass nipples for faucets and such where needed. My primary reasons were 1. Durability 2. Availability 3. Ease of Installation 4. Cost. My favorite local hardware stores don't carry much PEX, mainly enough for small repairs. I don't recall that I've ever had a failure in CPVC piping. I do use fresh glue when I install, and, at least in my area, CPVC is pennies on the dollar compared to copper.

Good luck and take care.

paulharvey · Dec 2, 2015

rtimgray said:
I've really enjoyed reading this thread, because it seems to be relatively regional what products are preferred. PEX is still relatively rare in my area, although not unheard of. I've used PVC and CPVC for going on 25 years, with no problems besides freezing. I had my PVC water line underneath my old mobile home freeze when it was very cold and my heat tape quit working.

In our new home (and addition) all I used was CPVC with brass nipples for faucets and such where needed. My primary reasons were 1. Durability 2. Availability 3. Ease of Installation 4. Cost. My favorite local hardware stores don't carry much PEX, mainly enough for small repairs. I don't recall that I've ever had a failure in CPVC piping. I do use fresh glue when I install, and, at least in my area, CPVC is pennies on the dollar compared to copper.

Good luck and take care.

Pretty much what he said. CPVC is a breeze to install, repair, replace, ect. Every Ace, HD, Lowes, TSC carry the fittings, pipe, and glue. For PEX, your going to have much less selection.

Deere Dude · Dec 2, 2015

I worked with CPVC for a lot of years but don't ever recall how long to let the joint dry or set up before putting full water pressure to it. Is it just a guess? I heard 24 hours but most of the time that will never work. Any expert advise on that one??