cpvc plumbing

[Raspy]

Your thinking of polybutelyne pipe that grey stuff with the crimps bands that failed. i think it was an early try at a cross bwtween pex and cpvc, The bands let go and ruined many houses. There was a huge class aciton law suit over it. That was the stuff they used in trailers also.

I guess the polybutylene tube has some problems, but I've never seen any. My use of it was in closed loop radiant systems that are now as much as 35 years old with no tubing problems. It could be that domestic water and it's chemicals were not compatible with poly. The plastic fittings definitely had problems though and I steered clear of them. It wasn't the copper crimp rings, it was the acetal fittings that cracked or melted and weakened. Some crimp rings were aluminum, which could have been a problem in salty conditions.

Copper crimp rings and brass insert barbed fittings and an excellent way of connecting PEX. I've used many hundreds of them with no problems ever. Stainless cinch rings are fine too as far as I can tell.

 

[clemsonfor]

I guess the polybutylene tube has some problems, but I've never seen any. My use of it was in closed loop radiant systems that are now as much as 35 years old with no tubing problems. It could be that domestic water and it's chemicals were not compatible with poly. The plastic fittings definitely had problems though and I steered clear of them. It wasn't the copper crimp rings, it was the acetal fittings that cracked or melted and weakened. Some crimp rings were aluminum, which could have been a problem in salty conditions.

Copper crimp rings and brass insert barbed fittings and an excellent way of connecting PEX. I've used many hundreds of them with no problems ever. Stainless cinch rings are fine too as far as I can tell.

It was all in the condos that were built in the 80s that my mom lived in. The downstairs unit below us had one connection fail and flooded that floor and bathroom, caused a good bit of damage if i remember. The whole things were redone for that reason and they had verticle cedar siding that allowed water in and a good bit of rot, so those two issues cause a total exterior rebuild.

 

[Deere Dude]

I had to install some 1" PVC for some deionized water in a factory a while back. That day I was given 2 cute female helpers and worked on this pipe with them in the scissors lift by the ceiling. I must have not had my mind on the job because a day later one of the glued fittings blew apart and flooded a big area of the factory before I could shut it off. The fitting slipped apart half way before the glue was dry and through my inattentiveness I missed it. Of course I was having fun anyway.

 

[crazyal]

I used the stainless side cinch ring style. They have a lock so when you've crimped them enough they lock so they can't come undone. Plus it's an easy way to know you've crimped it enough. I only used PEX for the radiant heating and copper for the domestic water. But back then PEX was mainly used for heating and I didn't want to learn the hard way how not to install PEX. Now I would just use PEX.

 

[jchewie]

I plumbed a cottage with it 15 years ago.
Then I replaced 40 year old galvanized plumbing with CPVC in my previous house, that was 11 years ago.
Then I replaced 25 year old polybutylene in my current house with CPVC.

No plastic taste.
Goes together quick and easy.
Don't use old CPVC cement or cement that has been frozen.
Use the (relatively expensive) CPVC to brass transitions wherever you might happen to need NPT fittings ESPECIALLY FEMALE NPT!!!
Use brass ball valves as well.

CPVC does expand with temperature change so you may have some ticking if you have a piece buried in the wall run through several studs.



After plumbing a hot water heating system in this house, any future plumbing work elsewhere will be all pex, homerun style, with copper crimp rings and brass fittings.

 

[Hill Farmer]

Anybody have cpvc plumbing in their home? Can you taste or smell the plastic? Would you use it again?

Yes. No. Yes.

 

[rtimgray]

I've really enjoyed reading this thread, because it seems to be relatively regional what products are preferred. PEX is still relatively rare in my area, although not unheard of. I've used PVC and CPVC for going on 25 years, with no problems besides freezing. I had my PVC water line underneath my old mobile home freeze when it was very cold and my heat tape quit working.

In our new home (and addition) all I used was CPVC with brass nipples for faucets and such where needed. My primary reasons were 1. Durability 2. Availability 3. Ease of Installation 4. Cost. My favorite local hardware stores don't carry much PEX, mainly enough for small repairs. I don't recall that I've ever had a failure in CPVC piping. I do use fresh glue when I install, and, at least in my area, CPVC is pennies on the dollar compared to copper.

Good luck and take care.

 

[paulharvey]

I've really enjoyed reading this thread, because it seems to be relatively regional what products are preferred. PEX is still relatively rare in my area, although not unheard of. I've used PVC and CPVC for going on 25 years, with no problems besides freezing. I had my PVC water line underneath my old mobile home freeze when it was very cold and my heat tape quit working.

In our new home (and addition) all I used was CPVC with brass nipples for faucets and such where needed. My primary reasons were 1. Durability 2. Availability 3. Ease of Installation 4. Cost. My favorite local hardware stores don't carry much PEX, mainly enough for small repairs. I don't recall that I've ever had a failure in CPVC piping. I do use fresh glue when I install, and, at least in my area, CPVC is pennies on the dollar compared to copper.

Good luck and take care.

Pretty much what he said. CPVC is a breeze to install, repair, replace, ect. Every Ace, HD, Lowes, TSC carry the fittings, pipe, and glue. For PEX, your going to have much less selection.

 

[Deere Dude]

I worked with CPVC for a lot of years but don't ever recall how long to let the joint dry or set up before putting full water pressure to it. Is it just a guess? I heard 24 hours but most of the time that will never work. Any expert advise on that one??

 

[bcp]

I usually find my expert advice on the can label.

But here is an example:



Bruce

 

[Deere Dude]

I usually find my expert advice on the can label.

But here is an example:

View attachment 449246

Bruce

Now I am embarrassed!! I could have swore I checked the label over the years, but not lately, and never saw the times. Thanks for not rubbing my nose in it.

 

[woodlandfarms]

Uhmmm your a guy.... Reading instructions reduces your man credits.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

Instructions? We dont need instructions, we're men.

 

[clemsonfor]

yea i rember reading it on the can last time i used it. I ignored.

 

[rtimgray]

I think I usually wait 10-15 minutes, when I'm making repairs and additions. When I've plumbed my house and addition, it had months of curing time. I don't recall ever having a failure from the solvent weld. I'm pretty sure that the 15 minutes to 2 hours recommended has a huge safety factor - nothing wrong with that.

I do recall that the first time I turned on water after I had plumbed my house (2 stories with a basement) - i had opened valves to let air out - and I was running up and down the stairs shutting off valves and listening for leaks (house was framed with no drywall on yet). After about a minute, everything had settled, I closed the last valve, no noise, no leaks - I was doing great. Then

BOOM - from the basement. I went running down the stairs and a 90 fitting had blown off my 1" incoming PVC line (located before I converted to CPVC). Luckily, I had installed a shut-off valve right where the water supply entered, and I got it closed quickly. Upon examination, I had never put any glue on that joint (should have used purple) and it had probably just held as long as it did from friction until the pressure overcame it.

All in all, not to bad for my first time plumbing a house, but it could turn into a mess in a hurry.

Good luck and take care.

 

[mddorange]

Now I am embarrassed!! I could have swore I checked the label over the years, but not lately, and never saw the times. Thanks for not rubbing my nose in it.

That 2 hour cure time is fairly new. It used to be 24 hours so don't feel bad.

 

[clemsonfor]

24 hours!!! no wonder you would want copper, who wants to wait a day after a cpvc repair to use the water. i am not sure anyone but new construction kept to that, just like i am sure very few wait two hours, at least people doing a quick repair to get back up and running. 15 mins is easy by the time you get out or put back what your doing 15-30 mins have passed.

 

[OldMcDonald]

Apart from one mention of a 10ft length of cpvc at $5 and copper at $14 for the same, nobody has mentioned actual prices. Looking at UK sites I am not finding any info there either. Does cpvc come in coils as well as lengths? Can someone give a US price comparison for PEX and cpvc please?

 

[newbury]

<snip>Can someone give a US price comparison for PEX and cpvc please?

Home depot -
1/2 inch 100 feet PEX $28.52, 1/2 inch 5 feet $1.86
1/2 inch 10 feet CVPC $2.70

 

[woodlandfarms]

The thing is that PEX has some costs you may need to factor in. The pipe is cheap, but the fittings not so much, and the tools have a cost. Again, in my book, totally worth the costs as it is still way below copper in my hood.