Rims cracked rim

darrenjttu · Oct 3, 2015

I just bought a used 1998 3000hours jd 4300. On the rear tire in have some cracks in the rim around the lugs. Should I replace this rim?

sixdogs · Oct 3, 2015

You can but just an 8" center with the lug holes drilled in and then weld it to the wheel after you bolt it in place. this is a pretty easy fix and saves buying a wheel. If you do buy a new wheel, keep the lugs tight since this is likely why it cracked. You can also just weld the wheel if you have the room. Can you post some pics?

darrenjttu · Oct 3, 2015

I will once I figure out how to post pics

darrenjttu · Oct 4, 2015

Here is the cracked rim.

davesl708 · Oct 4, 2015

I would replace that. The metal looks fatigued.

sixdogs · Oct 4, 2015

davesl708 said:
I would replace that. The metal looks fatigued.

Agreed. That looks pretty sad and I would replace it. It's pretty universal and is on many tractors so aftermarket or junkyard should be available. Keep those lugs tight.

Rock knocker · Oct 4, 2015

Is that the paint failing, or the metal cracking?

darrenjttu · Oct 4, 2015

It's the metal cracked. I recently painted the rims.

Gary Fowler · Oct 4, 2015

That is a lot of cracks but it is still repairable. It will take a lot of beveling (V bevel equally from both sides ) and welding but it can be done if you have a welding machine and grinders. I would drill a 1/4" hole at the end of each crack where it is still running into the wheel, then grind a V bevel from each side so that you have nearly full grind thru but leave enough metal for the first weld bead so you don't burn completely thru. Then finish grinding from the other side till you remove all the crack and reach the new weld metal and then weld the back side.

Do this for each crack. The smaller pieces, weld up the crack from one side after making a small groove and then back grind to good metal from the other side and weld it up. I would use all E7018 stick electrodes and run them fairly hot to assure good tie-ins and no trapped slag.

Keep the metal cooled around the rim so it never gets hotter than you can touch with your bare hand and I think you can do this without removing the tire.

If you do this yourself, it will be much cheaper than a new rim but if you have to have a shop do it, it would likely be cheaper to just buy a new rim, assuming you can find one.

Gary Fowler · Oct 4, 2015

davesl708 said:
I would replace that. The metal looks fatigued.

Yes it is fatigued, that is why it is cracked. Loose bolts allow the metal to flex back and forth till it fatigue cracked. There is nothing wrong with welding up the cracks as long as you remove all of the crack and drill a hole at the end to keep if from cracking further as you weld and grind on it.
Granted, the owner should have repaired it as soon as it started cracking and it would have been an easy fix. It doesn't take long for loose lug bolts to wallow out a hole and really work the rim over.

sd455dan · Oct 4, 2015

darrenjttu said:
I just bought a used 1998 3000hours jd 4300. On the rear tire in have some cracks in the rim around the lugs. Should I replace this rim?

Some of those bolts look to be tightened down to the point that the hex head is actually touching the wheel.

i would make sure that the Lug bolts are the proper ones with a taper to center on each tapered hole.

Also it is lucky that even if you don't get the wheel lug hole tapers perfect that the wheel is also a hub centric one in addition to lug centric.

Kenneth S · Oct 4, 2015

JD's fix for that problem besides changing the wheel if it was damaged was to use Loctite on the lug bolts. Those lug bolts had a tendency to loosen on their own, those bolts had to be re-tightened a lot (the hex touching the wheel). Those threads in that hub are probably worn pretty good also.

darrenjttu · Oct 5, 2015

I think I am going to replace the rim. I feel like it's a safety issue. I don't want the rim to shatter while I have my son in it with me. If I welded it I think it would be a temp fix.

Gary Fowler · Oct 6, 2015

darrenjttu said:
I think I am going to replace the rim. I feel like it's a safety issue. I don't want the rim to shatter while I have my son in it with me. If I welded it I think it would be a temp fix.

It would be temp only if you let the lug bolts get loose again. When tight the tire rim sets on the wheel hub and there is not much side pressure on each individual bolt. Let them get loose and then the rim falls off the center hub and therefore all the pressure is on the bolt which then flexes the rim back and forth with each turn till the metal fatigues and breaks.

Keep a check on all lug bolts and tighten every 10 hours of use till you get no more movement when tightening. Then you can extend your hours up to about 50 hour between tightening checks. You should visually check them each time you use the tractor.

sd455dan · Oct 6, 2015

Kenneth S said:
JD's fix for that problem besides changing the wheel if it was damaged was to use Loctite on the lug bolts. Those lug bolts had a tendency to loosen on their own, those bolts had to be re-tightened a lot (the hex touching the wheel). Those threads in that hub are probably worn pretty good also.

I heard a similar thing today about a new JD 5---E series tractor Owner wanted to reverse the back tires for more width when lifting the 1200lbs. bales and stacking at max height in his barns.

Said he tried all the tools he had and has decided to have Jd dealer remove them ( that way when they snap off they will have to deal with it)- His words not mine...

sixdogs · Oct 7, 2015

sd455dan said:
I heard a similar thing today about a new JD 5---E series tractor Owner wanted to reverse the back tires for more width when lifting the 1200lbs. bales and stacking at max height in his barns.

Said he tried all the tools he had and has decided to have Jd dealer remove them ( that way when they snap off they will have to deal with it)- His words not mine...

It will still be the owner's problem since he is supposed to keep the lugs tight. They won't loosen, however. The OP's problem was that these smaller wheel lugs tend to loosen. The solution is to keep tightening or just tighten once with the addition of blue--medium--Loctite.

sd455dan · Oct 7, 2015

sixdogs said:
It will still be the owner's problem since he is supposed to keep the lugs tight. They won't loosen, however. The OP's problem was that these smaller wheel lugs tend to loosen. The solution is to keep tightening or just tighten once with the addition of blue--medium--Loctite.

Sorry i should have stated it clearer- the bolts never came loose and the wheel is in new condition. The owner was unable to break the bolts loose and is concerned they will snap trying to remove them, in this case Deere got them plenty tight.

also the owner is overall very satisfied with the new E series. He would like to get a back up tractor or skid steer so he can take the New tractor in for service.

darrenjttu · Oct 17, 2015

When I took this wheel off the tractor all of the cracked parts just fell off. They were all loose! I'm glad I bought a new rim instead of welding it.

Deere Dude · Oct 17, 2015

sd455dan said:
I heard a similar thing today about a new JD 5---E series tractor Owner wanted to reverse the back tires for more width when lifting the 1200lbs. bales and stacking at max height in his barns.

Said he tried all the tools he had and has decided to have Jd dealer remove them ( that way when they snap off they will have to deal with it)- His words not mine...

I would try one and if it snaps off he would need to take it to the dealer anyway.