Cranks but does not start
- Thread starter Eustis
- Start date
ROUSTABOUT
Elite Member
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- Jan 30, 2008
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- Luther Willis Hill, AR
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- Pettibone, Ford, Massey Ferguson, International, JD, David Bradley, home mades
No unscrew solenoid and take plunger out and put solenoid back on. Then start it.
Roadworthy
Elite Member
If tractor will crank over all safeties are probably satisfied. I'll agree - check the fuel shutoff solenoid.
Thanks for the replies. The fuel solenoid is not getting power. It will run and stop with a jumper to the battery. Dealer checked the ignition switch and is ok. Seems not be power to the back of the fuse block. Dealer solution: $2200. wiring harness or $750. Jumper and switch to the battery. Anyone know how to fix this issue without doing the above options. I could do a jumper by cutting the wire going to the solenoid and using that wire and making a jumper to the battery and installing a switch at the dash for $50. Is that the way to go or how is the problem located and properly repaired?
If there wasn't power to the back of the fuse block there would be other things not working, so that doesn't seem to fit the symptom. I would do more diagnosis on your own first. For grins I'd stick a new fuse in that location, it's unlikely but occasionally fuses get a cold joint. Find the fuse that feeds the solenoid and make sure there's power coming into that fuse location. Generally those fuse boxes have like a small bus that feeds all the input sides of the fuses. So see if the other fuses in that box have power to the input side. If it's just the fuse location for the solenoid, I'd try to look carefully at the contacts that hold that fuse. If there's power coming out of that fuse location, then you'll have to start looking at the wire that leads from the fuse to the solenoid. It would help to have a wiring diagram to know where the wire goes, and you may have to pull off some of the flexible plastic conduit to follow the wire. Before I'd take too much apart, look for places where the wiring harness might be rubbing, that way you don't have to take the conduit off you can just look for rub spots. This ain't rocket science, it might take some time and you may have to take off some parts to get at the wiring, but you're not dealing with solid state devices, it's just a wire.
Henro
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Wow!
Since you know the solution, I would suggest you just install a switch, and turn the switch off when you want to shut the tractor off.
Your safety circuits are intact...what do you lose?
Seems like a no brainer to me.
Then IF you get serious, start troubleshooting the problem yourself. Cannot be that difficult to solve...
BUT you do not need to solve it immediately...save yourself BIG bucks...
Beezfun, I have checked the two wire female connecter for the fuel solenoid and both connections are getting power when the ignition is switched on. The solenoid works and tractor runs when jumped straight from the battery but does not run when connector is used. So I am stumped. Any suggestions?
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TMGT
Elite Member
What condition is your battery in? I had an issue where the tractor would turn over but the voltage has just low enough while cranking that it wouldn't activate the fuel solenoid every time. Took me a while to find the problem, new battery solved my problem.
If it's not the battery it could be high resistance somewhere in the fuel solenoid circuit, first place I would check is the voltage drop across the fuse block. It's also a possibility that the fuel solenoid is getting weak.
Sent from my SM-G715U1 using TractorByNet mobile app
If it's not the battery it could be high resistance somewhere in the fuel solenoid circuit, first place I would check is the voltage drop across the fuse block. It's also a possibility that the fuel solenoid is getting weak.
Sent from my SM-G715U1 using TractorByNet mobile app
dcarman
Bronze Member
I had a similar problem with a car that was given to me because no one could get it to start including the dealer. It turned out to be an open 10 gauge wire between the ignition switch and the fuse block. A jumper with scotchlocks fixed the problem. I finally sold it after putting 185000 miles on it. Never had a problem with thew wiring again.