Creek Crossing for Tractor

kensfarm · Oct 5, 2004

Here's my crossing.. on the far side.. I graded the ramp to a lesser angle.. still need more stone to cover over it to prevent washout. On the near side.. I had the same problem as you.. very mushy.. I ordered a 20 ton load of 3-4 inch rock.. and spread on the path going into the creek.. def. makes for a very bumpy ride.. but provided a good rock base. I then bought a load of "crushed run" to go over the big rocks.. and packs down nicely.

The creek at this crossing point is about 2 ft.. after very heavy rains it's like a flash flood.. I just don't go across it then.

kensfarm · Oct 5, 2004

Though I don't have a picture of the nearside road.. (it would be to the left of this picture).. you can get a feeling of the steepness going down to the creek crossing.

john_bud · Oct 5, 2004

Tom,

I think your initial idea was close, but you need bigger rock. Get some 6" to 12" rock delivered and spread in the bed. You might have to dig it out some avoid making a dam. Then top it with reground concrete. It won't cost very much and will stand up to the flooding you describe. Oh sure, you will probably need to add more small rock every 3-5 years to keep it smooth, but that's still cheaper than what your bridge will cost. Just add about 50% to 100% extra width of rock to the upstream side to account for the movement during flooding. It will also buffer it some too.

As to regulation, most states own the waterways and control the reparian (sp?) zone 75 feet on each side of the banks. Having a "boat ramp" probably give you the right to maintain what has always been there by adding stone. But, you would probably get into mucho trouble by making a bridge. Most states do arial surveys anually to check for unauthorized construction without permits, it is a year by year comparison done (as I understand it) by computer. Here in Wisconsin, you would have to remove the bridge, repair the damage caused by building the bridge, pay a fine to the DNR for the ecological damage and a fine to the county for building without a permit. The work, fines and inspections could easily make your wallet squeal like a pig.

rambler · Oct 5, 2004

(

Will I still need permits, government approval, etc.? Any other counsel? Thanks.

Tom

)

Between fedral, state, & county regulations, pretty much every bit of flowing water in this country is regulated, and any effort to alter it in any way is regulated. How badly it is regulated depends mostly on your local county. The state & Fed gets involved if someone complains or you make a real noticable mess of it. County seems to inspect properties every 3-5 years for taxes, and note new unapproved things.

So, how is your county on such issues?

How close is this project to a road?

How do you get along with your neighbors? Anyone near you that is looking for a reason to turn you in?

If you build it with out permits, do not change or restrict the flow of water in any way, and build it heavy enough & safe enough for a car to get across, and you will probably be ok - if the other things are in order.

Issues with a bridge too weak: As property changes hands or people change what they own, the bridge gets too small. Someone sells a chunk of land off, & this is the only access - so then cars want to use it, or hunters, or... Anyhow, it becomes a mess for the county to re-permit it later on, someone to rebuild it, a safety hazzard for new land owners.... This is why some counties have gotten pretty fussy on the strength of a bridge - if they don't, it becomes a liability to them later. Also, your insurance company might view a too-light bridge as a safey hazzard & have some issues with getting insurance. Just some thoughts.)

It is generally much easier to get permits to cross a dug ditch - all they want are assurance you will not change water flow. The EPA gets involved on natural creeks these days, and that just snowballs off the deep end...

Some local govts get real aggressive about building any bridge to hold rescue equipment, which means a full fire truck.... Sometimes it's best not to ask if the above things are in order & you feel you won't have any issues with anyone.....

Other counties don't much care at all, just don't mess up the water flow...

--->Paul

BB_TX · Oct 5, 2004

Tom22 - Have you done all the necessary calculations on the I beams? Or had someone else knowledgeable in civil engineering do it? 14" beams are pretty substantial. BUT. 10000 lbs of tractor plus enough railroad ties to cover the bridge end to end over 35' is a LOT of weight. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif Make sure it will handle the static and dynamic loading before you start.

TOMDUALLY · Oct 6, 2004

Since I only need a carrying capacity of 10,000 lbs. (tractor, loader with full load, bush hog, operator), I think I can use a pair of 14"-34lb/ft I-beams at 35 feet long to span the entire creek with footings about 8 - 10 feet back from the edge (allowing for future bank washaway. A local steel supplier quoted me around $1,500 for the pair, including priming and holes punched for attaching wooden decking. Another $1,000 for railroad ties, lag screws, concrete, miscellaneous items, and free labor (me) might let me finish for around $2,500.

Tom, I'm sorry but I can't follow your logic, I'm a KISS (keep it simple stupid)kind of a guy.
What it sounds like to me is that you are going to build is a semi trailer without the wheels for about the same price that you could buy one already assembled,decked and everything.
Just pull it across your creek, pour your footings on each end, remove the landing gear and rear running gear and lower it onto your footings, grade your road up to each end and PRESTO!! you have an instant bridge /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gifcapable of a load of 30,000lbs. or more, without fighting with those two I-beams and the 50 railroad ties.
You might even be able to sell the landing gear and axle assembly to a truck repair shop to help offset the cost /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

Dargo · Oct 6, 2004

The semi flatbed trailer would be a viable option for his needs. I wish it would have worked for me. I had a place that was going to sell me 2 of them for $1500. I was going to place them side by side to give me more width. However, with the much heavier load rating I would need, they wouldn't work. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif It would have been a "relatively" cheap and easy fix.

TOMDUALLY · Oct 6, 2004

I don't know the load rating that you were looking for, but think about it these semi's are out there every day hauling tractors, trucks, cars and other equipment on these trailers and they are only supported on each end just like a bridge.
Now they haul around 30 to 40 thousand pounds per load ---pretty good size tractor.

Dargo · Oct 6, 2004

I need to replace a bridge in my driveway. At times I bring in some heavy equipment and also will have concrete trucks back over the bridge. Therefore, I'll need something to handle about twice what the trailers would handle. No "cheap" out for me. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

greglinda · Sep 13, 2017

I have this problem and questions Seasonal creek bone dry 75% of the year. New neighbor bought the adjoining property trench the only ford, which was blown out from large equipment anyway. Now I have to drive 3/4 of a mile and cross all of his land to brushing my back 5 acres. Cut a nice lane thru the woods, had to cut 20 to 25 trees up to 12" in dis. This is a private drain so improving it is no problem in Michigan. All stumps less than 4" high. Creek bed is dry now mostly sand humus and tree roots. I have to get the stumps down and need to put some stone in as it gets real soft when the creek is running. I have several tons of field stone softball to basketball size to put in to shore up the muck. Only need to access during dry season but it takes all summer to dry out. I have no excavation equip. Went to rental to price stump grinders, I can rent a mini excavator or a Kubota mini backhoe for the same price as the grinder. Thinking I could maybe pull the stumps rather than grind them and then use the ex. or the bh to dig out the creek bed. So my questions are will either the ex or the bh work for the stumps and dig out the stream bed? Which is better? How deep do in need to dig . I will have to leave some of the big roots or cut some massive trees and degrade the banks. I own most of the creek and the neighbor doesn't care. I know I need to return the creek bed to the depth it is at now. Forgot to mention creek is 8' wide and 12" deep. Muck is 6" when saturated. Planning ford to be 7' w wide and 18' across the flow to give a good footing in and out. Should be able to get my Ford 600 across on that. What do you think?