Crossed cables while trying to jump start.

[4get gto]

Fortunate you didn't get a kaboom..!

 

[WranglerX]

Crossing the jumper cables doubles the Voltage on the system: 2 x 12 Volts = 24 Volts! Voltage is pressure to push electrons through the electronics. It can fry a lot of components, in a short amount of time... It is possible the maker put in a protective circuit, to prevent over-voltage damage from reversed cables. It costs them money to do that, so they may not have done it.

If the fuses do not fix it, you are likely looking at replacing circuit boards. I was an Electronic Technician for 3.5 years, doing component level repairs -- replacing resistors, diodes, transistors, capacitors, etc. I worked on Switching Power Supplies for computers: high wattage, high voltage, with literally explosive failures. It was always fun to turn on a repaired Power Supply for the first time, to see what happened... I wish you the best of luck. Cheers!

Totally clueless are we..... You don't get 24 volts you get more like dead short....

 

[sd455dan]

The worry is as was posted earlier. Reverse biasing the Alternator output since you are making the alternator case "+" and the Alternator + battery output terminal negative that can forward bias the diodes into into an avalanche current condition since instead of the stator windings output you are now only limited by the jumper batteries ability to supply current which without some sort of an interruption (fuse) damages them, usually taking out the integrated voltage regulator as well.
Maybe the Op got lucky and the fusible link went open first. Here's Hoping. Many manufacturers place the fusible link very close to the starter in the B+ cable it may not be obvious because many times it is wrapped in a covering concealing that is not just a regular wire. A few manufacturers have placed the fusible link in the Alternators B+ cable in close proximity to the alternator or in the fuse box as a master system fuse. Heck these days not expensive to just place a resettable circuit breaker in line.

edit: it appears from Wranglers linked diagram a slow blow fuse should be located near the starter in the smaller B+ wire
If replacing that gets the tractor to where it will start then get out a volt meter and check that the voltage increases well above 12.6 VDC once the tractor starts to ~14.. If you have a meter that can read "true" AC switch it to that and make sure that there is not AC on the B+ line from the alternator.
If the diodes short, this can happen. Also even if the diodes survive good idea to also check that the regulator is in fact still regulating the system voltage. If it rises much above 15 VDC there is likely a problem with the regulator.
Hopefully nothing but the slow blow fuse went.

 

[John_Mc]

You've probably already checked this, but in addition to the fuses, I would check the battery itself. shorting it to another battery in reverse polarity can fry the battery.

 

[ray66v]

As stated, it's very common for there to be a fusable link or a large fuse, that will blow in this circumstance. They are not always easy to find.

Without that protection, you can get a nice electrical fire going, pretty fast.

 

[4570Man]

Why would a fuse blow with reversed voltage? Fuses aren’t directional.

 

[Fuddyduddy1952]

Why would a fuse blow with reversed voltage? Fuses aren’t directional.

Because of the alternator diode and any other diode or polarity sensitive device in the circuit.
The first drawing, negative ground battery when you close switch nothing happens.
Reverse battery leads, close switch and fuse blows. Diode is forward biased and draws lots of current.
The first negative ground drawing diode that direction current doesn't flow.

 

[jonathentyquan]

Had a customer this week post in our forum for VW cars that they did the same. Lots of control modules in the car were smoked. Felt bad for the guy. He is living a painful error.

Accidently crossed the positive and negative cables while trying to jump start my Kioti Dk45s. Now i can't get anything when i turn the ignition key. Dash electronics are completly dead. No clicking noises, nothing. Any help?

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