Crowning 3 miles of access road

[Egon]

Those are nice looking blades.

From the picture I would think a small ditch on the inside with swales or small culverts to divert the water to the downhill side would help.

Also check out Henro's gauge wheels for a rear blade. They are just what you need for your situation.

Egon

 

[btolle]

I had a straight blade a few years ago to maintain a road. It was a cheap, lightweight, model but had all the adjustments except offset.

I had 2 old V8 engine heads laying around so it used some allthread rod (2 pieces per head) and bolted them to the back of the blade for added weight. They worked out just right for my situation.

The blade takes a little experimenting to get the angles just right for your particular type of material but once you get it adjusted it will work really well.

Bill Tolle

 

[djradz]

That Midwest blade looks pretty nice too, but don't forget the shipping cost. Also, it appears that getting that blade to "offset" would be more involved, and maybe over time become quite difficult as you have to pull pins and slide the entire blade over in it's frame.

Don't think I'd be putting oil or grease on anything back there, /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif it's sure to get full of sand and dirt. If you're really concerned, might I suggest a dry-type spray or graphite paint. My old IH blade is exactly like the one he's looking at and the two pins, located up top, have never bound.

 

[Bob_Skurka]

<font color="red"> it appears that getting that blade to "offset" would be more involved </font>

I found a pretty easy trick to offsetting the blade, I raise it up but tilt it back so that when I pull the rear pins the blade doesn't fall forward, it allows to fairly easily slide the offset in its track. I've used the Midwest blade for 2 seasons now and I'll admit that before I figured out my trick I did utter a few well seasoned words when adjusting the blade.

As for shipping, I think the best bet is to contact Midwest and get a list of dealers in your area, they sell to many dealers and they also make blades that are sold under other private lable names.

 

[rdrce698]

i just bought what i would say is the same blade but 60" from Corrier tractors in N.C it was around $350.00 +$105.00 shipping. Got it in 2 days and it seems to be a very sturdy unit I cant imagine what heavy duty is, i would assume the three point on my B7200 would rip off before this thing thought of bending /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif looks like a good deal i will try it out this week.Let me know if you want a review

 

[jyoutz]

You might want to try buiding some "rolling dips" with lead-out wing ditches into your road system in strategic locations. We use these for forest roads all the time. They are longer-lasting and easier to maintain than culverts. Talk to a forest road engineer to find out about these. The only problem is that you will need to get a small dozer to construct them. But they are very easy to maintain. We usually use about 16 dips per mile to drain forest roads.

 

[Westonium]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( We usually use about 16 dips per mile to drain forest roads. )</font>

This explains all the "dips" I encounter on these forest roads...

/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[Soilworks]

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Good Luck!

 

[davidseaquist]

thanks for posting the e-bay rear blade. I sent them an e-mail to see if I could get a 5' one for my bx22. Is a 5' blade a good size for my tractor?

 

[John_Mc]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( You can see from this picture what is happening. During rains, the slopes gradually deposit dirt at the bottom which pushes the water towards the center of the road. This particular road is graded toward the inside slope. The dirt builds up more than I can tilt my box blade as my tires ride up on it.)</font>

I believe that statement hold the key to your problem. You need to address the drainage issues to prevent the water flow that is depositing the dirt in all the wrong places. As someone already stated, you're ahead of the game since you've already installed culverts, bu tthe real key is getting water away from the road, and keeping it away, except in carefully controlled places (like at your culverts)

John Mc