CT230 - Won't turn over

[CT230 Fan]

I've been using my CT230 without issue for quite some time. I mowed about 2 weeks ago without issues. After I was done I parked it and we left for vacation. This evening I was going to mow, but I can't get it to crank at all. When I turn the key half way, you can hear the snap of the solenoid and the dash lights come on. Turn signals work, headlights work. When I turn the key to start, nothing changes. It does not attempt to crank at all. I checked my hydro pedal and PTO is off. There was corrosion around the positive terminal on the battery, but my cable seems fine. I cleaned it all up and put the cable back on, but still nothing. Just not sure where to go from there. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[arnoldziffel]

Does the parking brake need to be "set" to start this model?

 

[CT230 Fan]

Does the parking brake need to be "set" to start this model?

No, as long as the brake is depressed it works. I have tried it both ways though.

 

[EMTspud]

Check your dead-man switch

 

[k0ua]

The start relays on Kioti's (Daedongs). are a notorious failure as are the key switch's. I am not familiar what a CT230 crosses to in the Kioti stable, is that a CK30? They are a common auto parts replacement part.

 

[CT230 Fan]

The start relays on Kioti's (Daedongs). are a notorious failure as are the key switch's. I am not familiar what a CT230 crosses to in the Kioti stable, is that a CK30? They are a common auto parts replacement part.

Yes, should be equal to the CK30. I'm not really that mechanically inclined, especially when it comes to electrical. Can anyone give me some trouble shooting advice. I do have access to a multi-meter and have used it on occasion.

 

[k0ua]

Well I don't have the full workshop manual for the CK30, but on my DK35se, there is a start relay that the key energizes the coil of and it sends power to the starter solenoid. It is on the firewall on the DK35se on the far left. You really need the full workshop manual showing placement of components and the full schematic. On the DK there are three relays in a row, start relay, pre-heat (glow plugs) relay, and fuel solenoid relay. You can usually just swap the start relay for the fuel relay on the DK to see if the start relay is the problem as the start relay and the fuel solenoid relay are the same. The pre-heat relay is larger and has a higher rating (70 amps)

 

[tcartwri]

Check the neutral safety switch on the hydrostatic pedal. They are very easy to foul with grass or twigs. Takes almost nothing to hold them open. You will find this under the right running board at the pivot point for the the hydro pedal.

Spray the ignition switch liberally with electrical contact cleaner. Right down into the key hole. Work the switch with the key and re-spray. This should be part of your winter prep as well. The switch should always be covered with something if the tractor is stored outside.

I have also on two occasions had mystery no-starts, where all switches and relays checked out. I wound up jumpering the starter solenoid to get it going. Once it was restarted it would operate without issues. This is twice over four years.

 

[dfkrug]

Yes, should be equal to the CK30. I'm not really that mechanically inclined,
especially when it comes to electrical. Can anyone give me some trouble shooting advice. I do have
access to a multi-meter and have used it on occasion.

Well, electrical is the area with the most differences between the CT230 and the CK30 (both aka
the DaeDong M27). Not only did Bobcat use the standard Bobcat start switch (with no weather cover),
they also have a much more extensive interlock system.

The photo is of the interlock logic module from my 2010 CT230. The CT has so many switches, they
can be quite troublesome. I even had to disable the parking brake switch right away, as the engine
would die whenever I tried to disengage it. My 2005 CK30 only had the foot clutch switch.

I highly suggest you get the wiring diagram for starters (in the service manual). Bobcat improved many
areas of the the manual, BTW.

 

[SSdoxie]

OP has check off all the necessary switches except the Seat Switch, Bobcat has one, Kioti does not. I have had more service repairs on the seat switch than any of all the others combined.
Another point, on my tractor the PTO switch seems to have a "sweet spot" in it that if lever is slightly bumped off from Fully Off but not enough to light the dash light it will not crank.

 

[CT230 Fan]

I should get a chance to work on it tonight. I will the battery using the volt meter and a resistor to make sure the battery is good. It should be though, it was new last year. I would think that if it were the battery, or even a cable the engine would at least try to turn over. I think I might try to just jumper the seat safety switch to see if that's the problem and I'll climb under and see if the hydro safety switch is fouled in any way. I bought some electrical contact cleaner and will clean all the contacts I can get to and also the key switch. We will see where we go from there.

Would someone be able to give me instructions on how to possibly jump start the starter to see if I can get it running?

 

[tcartwri]

I would advise you to get some help if you need to do this, and make **** sure the machine is in neutral and can't roll because you will be in between the wheels.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/bobcat-tractors/198731-15hr-ct235-ign-switch-failure.html

 

[CT230 Fan]

Problem Solved I guess I should have looked harder the first time. I had actuated the foot pedal several times, back and forth and it seem to return to normal like it should have, so I just assumed it was fine. This evening, I did it again and heard the switch snap, and then it didn't'. Crawled under to find a thorn stuck between the switch and the plate it actuates on. The pedal was moving freely, but the switch was stuck. Moved the thorn, and problem solved. Glad it was something so basic, just wish I had found it the other day.

Thanks for all the help fellas, helped me think out the steps I needed to take to fix the problem.

 

[k0ua]

Problem Solved I guess I should have looked harder the first time. I had actuated the foot pedal several times, back and forth and it seem to return to normal like it should have, so I just assumed it was fine. This evening, I did it again and heard the switch snap, and then it didn't'. Crawled under to find a thorn stuck between the switch and the plate it actuates on. The pedal was moving freely, but the switch was stuck. Moved the thorn, and problem solved. Glad it was something so basic, just wish I had found it the other day.

Thanks for all the help fellas, helped me think out the steps I needed to take to fix the problem.

Well, there you go, a no cost fix.. cant beat that!

 

[SSdoxie]

Glad you got it figures out. Just goes to show just because a lever/pedal is moving doesn't mean a switch is opening or closing like it should.

 

[MESSMAKER]

I have that happen a couple times a year. First time, I was in the middle of nowhere. It started raining about 5 min after tractor stopped. Not my best day.

 

[SSdoxie]

I haven't had anything get caught in the travel pedal switch YET, but did find out a few months back that there is a "sweet spot" in the PTO lever that will cut out the safety switch but not move it far enough to light up the PTO On light in the dash. Now that is first thing I check any time it won't crank.