Cub Cadet 2166 problem - transmission

[Wombat33]

I just changed the transmission fluid in my 2166. It seemed to work fine; was driving it around the yard. But, a few days later, I went to start it and the 2166 would neither go forward nor reverse. It would not move. I checked the level of the fluid, it seemed fine.

Stumped . . . Any ideas?

 

[art]

This dosen't sound right, were there any noises from the transmission?

 

[CCinCT]

Check your pedal linkage?

 

[Wombat33]

No odd sounds. In fact, it ran well after I started it.

I will check the pedal linkage.

I removed the mower and belts to sharpen the blades and do other general maintenance. That wouldn't have any effect, would it?

Oh, and instead of putting Cub Cadet transmission fluid in it, I put in 15w-50 Mobil One synthetic oil. The Stihl dealer I go to says he uses that in all his Deere's and other riding mowers they repair. Strange thing is, the 2166 ran right after I changed the filter and oil. Now it doesn't. The forward/reverse pedals feel "mushy" when pushed; the spring slowly back out.

 

[Wombat33]

Does anyone have a comment on the transmission fluid that I used in place of the recommended Cub Cadet-branded fluid? Could that be the cause?

 

[JTKub]

It's possible you need to bleed air from the system. Start the engine, pull the bypass lever and mash and release the pedals a few times while in bypass mode. Other than that, is the level ok? What trans filter did you use? I have read of maybe 2-3 cases where an automotive filter was used and the trans lost all functionality. Once the filter was replaced with an OEM or quality AM, all was well. I dunno how your climate is, but I wouldn't go with a 50wt trans oil. I'd stick with a 40wt. FWIW, I have Shell Rotella-T 15w-40 in mine (that specs Cub Cadet Drive System Fluid Plus) and it performs flawlessly.

Joel

 

[Wombat33]

I actually used a Cub Cadet filter. This weekend I will try to bleed the valve you mentioned. Oh, and I live in Dallas, TX, so climate is not a problem.

 

[Wombat33]

Update: I checked the linkage from the forward/reverse foot pedals, and they're all properly connected. My tractor still will not move.

I called a mower mechanic the other day and he said that the 15w-50 is pretty heavy and that it may need to warm up (it was about 70 degrees in Dallas this past weekend). Well, I left the tractor running for about 5 minutes and tried the pedals again. No luck.

Any other ideas? (I'm pretty close to draining the oil I just put in and splurging for the Cub transmission oil).

[JTKub: where would the bypass lever be?]

 

[moe1942]

you may have learned the sad and expensive lesson about not using the recommended fluid..about the only thing to do now is a flush and refill with CCC fluid. Then keep your fingers crossed.

 

[dahawkes]

I just changed the transmission fluid in my 2166. It seemed to work fine; was driving it around the yard. But, a few days later, I went to start it and the 2166 would neither go forward nor reverse. It would not move. I checked the level of the fluid, it seemed fine.

Stumped . . . Any ideas?

I went through the very same thing. I'll save you the cost of the repair.
There is an "o" ring on what the diagram calls a charge pump. The "O" ring gets hard and won't seal. There is a cap on top of the trans just behind the dipstick. You might have to remove the body. The cap has two small bolts that hold it on. When you remove that cap, the "o" ring is in there.
Replace that "O" ring and your problems will be gone.
If you are mechanically inclined you can save yourself the dealer expense.
Just look at your diagram that came with machine.

 

[Wombat33]

Well, I'm checking back in on this thread after about a year. I guess I never saw the post by DAHAWKES.

I'd like to explore his suggestion of checking the charge pump. However, I can't seem to find what he's referring to on my 2166.

Can anyone direct me to where the charge pump is located on the 2166?

Any suggestions GREATLY appreciated!! I'd like to try this last option before selling the 2166 for parts.

 

[diesel_nut]

Hate to ask something as silly as this but is the lever that locks the tranny out for pushing/towing pulled out?

 

[Wombat33]

That's a good question. But, yes, it's pushed in when trying to make it go.

I've been through the ringer on this one. Have purchased a Kubota, but would like to salvage my 2166 anyway.

 

[Wombat33]

Bump. . .

Any suggestions?

 

[JTKub]

Wish I has some ideas other than what's been suggested. #1 you verified oil level is correct and went through the purging procedure. #2 you are using a Cub trans filter and have verified it's full of oil (not air bound). #3 you verified the control linkage is all good and the spring loaded 'button' for the bypass isn't stuck in. I'm not familiar with the all aluminum transaxles used on the 2100 series machines, but I think they are pretty much the same as today with a Hydrogear BDU series hydrostatic drive bolted to it:

Can you hear the pump whirring along at idle? After all else, you could drop the rear and so as dahawkes suggested.

 

[Wombat33]

Thanks, JT.

I just assumed the transmission filter, which is a Cub Cadet filter, was full of oil. I will pull it and check and fill it with transmission oil before screwing it back on.

I will try to jiggle the bypass spring to ensure it's returning completely.

I'm a little stumped, however, to locate the relief valve that DAHawkes is referring to. I removed the gas tank and looked around, but can't seem to locate that valve. Any ideas? I don't see anything in the photo you provided resembling the valve that DA referred to.

 

[Wombat33]

By the way, JT, what is the black rubber hose with the red cap?

 

[JTKub]

The black rubber hose with the red sparger on the end would be your breather hose. You might wanna make sure you can blow/suck through yours. I just pulled the parts diagram for my 2544. The charge pump that dhawkes was referring to is that oval/oblong/crescent shaped cover with the 2 cap screws at either end you see on the rust colored end of the hydrostat in the picture (facing the rear). Per my diagram, the only thing behind that cover is a small gerotor assy. and a large O-ring seal. That might be the O-ring in question.

Joel

 

[Wombat33]

JT:
The sparger tube on mine does not seem to have the ability to test either suction or otherwise. The red cap on the end is fixed.

 

[JTKub]

JT:
The sparger tube on mine does not seem to have the ability to test either suction or otherwise. The red cap on the end is fixed.

That's no good. Air needs to be able to pass both ways through that hose. The red cap is only there to prevent debris, insects, etc.. from plugging the vent hose.

Joel