Cub Cadet LT1045 w.Kohler Courage Engine

[IAM4WVU]

Tractor is approximately 7 years old. I replaced all belts, spark plug, air filter, and 4 deck wheels 30 days ago and tractor has been running excellent. Today it stopped running halfway through cutting grass. It starts for 1-2 seconds but stops again. It has more than 1/2 tank of fresh gas. The PTO is fully disengaged and the choke is working properly. I've replaced the spark plug (again) to no avail. Oil level is "FULL". I've had the battery checked and it's okay. No blown fuses. Changed fuel filter and checked for leaks in fuel line, but that did not help either. I'm out of ideas. Especially since it cranks fine and tries to run but then dies. Spark plug wire checks out okay too. Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated at this juncture.

 

[DJ54]

Have you done a check for fuel delivery to the carb.?? I did a quick check at Kohler, and those Courage engines have a pulse type fuel pump. ie: Operates off the pressure in the crankcase. Not the plunger type. So you will need to be cranking it over to check.

If you have fuel delivery to the carb., sounds like it may need a cleaning.

 

[JRobyn]

Or the fuel shutoff solenoid is shorted somewhere. Definitely sounds like almost no fuel in carb. I'd check the fuel pump; shutoff solenoid and wiring; inlet needle/seat in that order.

- Jay

 

[IAM4WVU]

Thanks DJ54 and JRobyn for the input. Been out of commission myself for several days and just getting back on the tractor tomorrow. Will post results of my findings at that time. Thanks again.

 

[Wakey]

Out of curiosity, how many hours does your Cub have?

 

[IAM4WVU]

Here's my findings as of today. Checked the spark plug with an inline tester and I am definitely getting good spark. There was fuel in the fuel filter. However, I decided to replace the fuel filter as routine maintenance. There was a small amount of residual gas in the line that I drained into a pan. After changing the fuel filter, I tried cranking it over as suggested by DJ54. I am not getting gas to the gas filter; so obviously I'm not getting it to the fuel pump either. Can any of you (or JRobyn) tell me where the fuel shutoff solenoid is located and how to access it? Wakey asked how many hours on my Cub... it has 115 hours. The grass is a growing. I can use all the help/ideas you may have. Happy 4th of July everyone!

 

[Wakey]

I feel fortunate having 425 hours on mine..

See if this link helps. I have a 2008 Cub Cadet riding Mover Model Lt1045 with a Kohler

Here is the Google search with more links, including some threads from this forum https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=lt1045%20fuel%20solenoid

 

[Texasmark]

On mine it's on the bottom of the caburetor.

Pull the hose from the tank to the fuel pump and see if you have full flow assuming that like most mowers the tank sits above the fuel pump. If not disconnect the hole and move it down till it's below the level of the gas in the tank....drain some into a pan. If no or bad flow, check for a clogged ouylet filter in the tank.....take the cap off the tank and blow backwards through the hose (air hose on 5psig or less pressure) while looking in the tank at the outlet....looking for crud to be blown off the filter. If ok, move to next step.

Put that hose back and pull the hose off the inlet side of your filter. Pull the spark plug so that you can spin the engine fast. Spin the engine with the starter and see if you get fuel out of the hose. If not, bad diaphragm in the fuel pump, or the suction line from the block to the fuel pump (providing pulsation to operate the pump) is cracked or broken.

These would be where I'd be looking.

Mark

 

[IAM4WVU]

Thanks Wakey and Texasmark for the pointers. You've given me sound advice and a good troubleshooting path to follow. I'll let you know what I find out.

 

[IAM4WVU]

Texasmark:

I pulled the hose from the tank to the fuel filter input (lower end of filter). Had to lower the hose somewhat, but had good gas flow. Not sure why filter is not filling up... but it's not. I thought gas had to move "freely" from gas tank to fuel pump and the fuel pump pushed it forward from there. Am I right or wrong on that matter.

Like yours, my fuel shutoff solenoid is on the bottom of the carburetor. It is definitely not clicking when the key is turned to ON or OFF. I know that's not right, but doesn't that shut fuel off to the CARBURETOR ONLY? If I'm wrong in that assumption, please tell me how to remove it and I'll clean and test it with a 9V battery or the tractor battery.

I look forward to hearing from you.

Mike

 

[JRobyn]

The filter doesn't necessarily completely fill up. You're right that you need to have "free" flow to the pump, but the pump is a little diaphragm and check valve and WILL provide some "suction". I have tested the diaphragm pumps before by removing them and providing pulses on the pulse line via mouth, just using water as a working fluid (make sure to blow it out thoroughly afterwards.

The solenoid does shut off fuel to the carburetor (actually, shuts off the main jet). It just unscrews from the carb bowl.

- Jay

 

[IAM4WVU]

Thanks for the input Jay. I did in fact remove the solenoid yesterday morning and battery tested it. The solenoid did not work and the plunger was bound tight as a drum. Bought the entire replacement kit locally for $36.95; which included the solenoid, new bold, several gaskets, and a new metal heat shield. After replacement, the tractor started right up. Ran for 20 minutes... no gas leaks so far. Keeping fingers crossed.

For my own benefit, I would like to clear up another matter since you mention testing the diaphragm in the fuel pump. You have 3 hose connections. One from the fuel filter (which is on the right side of the fuel pump). One going to the carburetor (which is on the left side of the fuel pump). And I'm not 100% sure where the 3rd one goes (which is on the lower middle side of the fuel pump). Which one do you pulse the line with when testing the diaphragm?

Again, thanks for all the help.

Mike

 

[Texasmark]

If the filter were horizontal there would be some trapped air in the top but the fuel should still flow freely. The fuel pump should be able to suck the fuel up to it then send pressurized fuel to the bowl. Undo the hose at the entrance to the pump and see if you have good flow, even it you have to lower the hose. The pump should be able to make up your having to lower to get flow by it's sucking action. If it isn't sucking it isn't working.

On the shutoff, surely just the carb since it is mounted in the bowl but whether it shuts off the venturi port or pushes the float up can't say. I guess to get immediate action on shut down it would have to seal off the tube from the bowl to the venturi.

Since a wire goes to the doo dad on the bottom of the carb bowl I'd assume that there is a spring loaded plug on the end of a shaft coming from that thing. When you turn on the key you energize an electric coil in there and it sucks the shaft in pulling the plug away from the opening....the venturi tube. When you turn the key off the solenoid releases the rod and the spring puts the plug back in the tube.

Mark

 

[JRobyn]

Good deal Mike!

The fact that the solenoid plunger was seized suggests that you either have old fuel varnish deposits or corrosion due to moisture/ethanol fuel. So it would be a good idea to run a few tanks of gas with a healthy dose of Seafoam to help dissolve varnish, and keep some StaBil or Startron or equivalent in the fuel to help counteract ethanol issues. I have also found that if you must use ethanol fuel, it is vitally important to NEVER let small engine fuel systems sit for any extended length of time (weeks+) unless they are either totally empty or totally FULL (full is usually easiest, and thus best). But if you leave it full, also keep in mind that today's gasoline DOES get skanky more quickly, so if left for any extended periods of time, it must have fuel stabilizer additives.

The third hose on the fuel pump is the "pulse" line that connects somewhere/somehow back to the engine crankcase. It is the slight pressure pulses inside the crankcase that drive the fuel pump diaphragm. Sometimes the pump hose connections have some marking embossed in the plastic to identify which connection is which. Mouth pressure "pulses" on the pulse line are enough to test the pump function.

- Jay

 

[IAM4WVU]

Texasmark:

Thanks for the clarification. I'm getting a much better understanding as to how the inner workings of this lawn tractor. I've always been more of an IBM large mainframe service and tech support engineer. So the majority of my 42 year background has been in electronics. That's why this has been a little frustrating. But this forum has been very helpful.

Thanks,

Mike

 

[IAM4WVU]

Jay:

Thanks for the input. Where can I get Seafoam? I assume most Walmarts and auto part stores carry it, right? I keep StaBil on hand at all times. Should I use it with EVERY tank of gas? At the end of each season, I drain the tank nearly empty and let the engine run until all remaining gas is gone.

Note: When I replaced the solenoid, I removed the bowl on the carburetor and it was clean and free of any debris.

Thanks for clearing up which line is the "PULSE" line on the fuel pump.

Last but not least, I may have spoken too son about no gas leaks after running mower for 20 minutes on Wednesday. Yesterday, there was a very small puddle of gas underneath front of the tractor. Grass had to be cut and I have 2 bad knees. So off I went on tractor with fire extinguisher onboard. [Yes, I know what you're thinking.] Cleaned deck with water ports and sprayed debris from wheels and foot area. After it cooled off, I restarted and ran it for awhile before parking back in the garage. It does not appear at this time that any more gas has leaked. Perhaps some of the new gaskets have heated up and are making a better seal now??? Your thoughts?

Mike

 

[Texasmark]

Texasmark:

Thanks for the clarification. I'm getting a much better understanding as to how the inner workings of this lawn tractor. I've always been more of an IBM large mainframe service and tech support engineer. So the majority of my 42 year background has been in electronics. That's why this has been a little frustrating. But this forum has been very helpful.

Thanks,

Mike

Glad you got her fixed. Thanks for the reply. And in the process, I learned how the shut off works, thanks to Mr. Robyn's remarks without having to tear into it. Now if mine fails I too will have a better understanding.

Mark

 

[IAM4WVU]

Mower is still leaking a very small amount of gas after installing replacement fuel shutoff solenoid and new heat shield kit. Not exactly sure where it's coming from.

 

[Glassiches]

You said you removed the bowl, I'd check that area first. A puddle is a substantial amount of fuel and most other areas are limited to the amount of fuel they have access to while the engine is off. In other words, my search would be based on the size of the leak x time. Also, push a piece of paper towel under the carb and also the pump to isolate the culprit.

 

[JRobyn]

... Where can I get Seafoam? I assume most Walmarts and auto part stores carry it, right? I keep StaBil on hand at all times. Should I use it with EVERY tank of gas? At the end of each season, I drain the tank nearly empty and let the engine run until all remaining gas is gone.

That is right; I usually find Walmart the cheapest, plus their cheap house-brand carb cleaner works fine. Seafoam should only be needed if/when there is a suspected fuel gunk problem. But won't hurt a thing to run a little all the time. But expensive!

... Yesterday, there was a very small puddle of gas underneath front of the tractor.....

Really do need to identify exactly where that's coming from! I've had fits sometimes getting a good seal on the carb bowl o-ring because they are difficult to keep in place when reinstalling and are very easily pinched/damaged. A good smear of Vaseline (or equivalent) on the ring will help keep it in place while you reinstall. If yours is leaking a little there, it may be hard to spot since it will tend to wet the entire outside of the bowl and then drip off the lowest point.

- Jay