Cub Cadet RZT 50 - Ongoing Reviews

Rfisher7381 · Mar 28, 2014

mikholmes said:
Just thought I would jump in. I have one a RZT 50 with 3,500 hours on it now. Only issues are normal flat tires. A couple of belts and that was due to leaves backed into the deck ,2 batteries and one blade spindle. I change the blades each season. I am not very maintenance oriented either. I change the oil once a year and that's it. I did change the fuel filter once. Bought it in 2005 and just power washed it for the first time yesterday. Looked like a new mower now.

That's around 425 hours per year for a residential grade mower. wow! I average around 55. Pressure washing is dangerous. You can get water into the hydro gear drive vents where it will cause drive problems.

deiceman49 · May 21, 2014

just got a 7 year old rzt 50. mow my 4 acres with it on Sunday. has 138 hours, am so happy nice cut took 3 hours as compared with more than 8 hours with my old craftsman tractor with 44 in deck.

mike hal · Jun 1, 2014

Can I get some input?
I am looking to buy a 2008 50 in. zero turn with 550 hrs.
Original owner is selling it, no major repairs to it, she says.
I drove it, it pulls a little to the right, but the Kawasaki engine started right up. Engine seemed to run well.
I'm just concerned about repairs, she's only asking $450 for it. It seems like if it were to have major problems it happens around 200 hrs. based on reading this thread.
Is this a really good deal and I'm being too cautious?
Thanks

Mike

GBHRPS · Jun 2, 2014

Mike,
What are you waiting for? Buy it!

You've read the reviews, too many of them for sure, but at this price it would be a good deal. Adjusting the linkage for the one arm should bring the straight ahead steering back and is easily accomplished. As for buying a lemon that lets you down, ...if that happens, sell it for parts on this forum and recoup more than you spent buying it. Then again, as some reviewers have said in this thread ... "it has 3500 hours with just new blades, two flat tires and belts to fix". You may have found a gem.

Gene

KBEAT · Jun 4, 2014

Has anyone taken one of these transmissions off and rebuilt it ? I have and RTZ 50 and the LH is starting to lose power after a few minutes. Looks like I can get all the parts (Pumps, motor, swash plate) to rebuild it just wondering if anyone had taken one apart and what they found wrong. I am going to try the 47" belt and fluid change first, just looking at options other than buying a new unit. It just seems if the unit works for a few minutes the guts can't be too bad and should be repairable.

Rfisher7381 · Jun 4, 2014

KBEAT said:
Has anyone taken one of these transmissions off and rebuilt it ? I have and RTZ 50 and the LH is starting to lose power after a few minutes. Looks like I can get all the parts (Pumps, motor, swash plate) to rebuild it just wondering if anyone had taken one apart and what they found wrong. I am going to try the 47" belt and fluid change first, just looking at options other than buying a new unit. It just seems if the unit works for a few minutes the guts can't be too bad and should be repairable.

Do you have the Hydrogear manual? If not I can email it to you. Did you try the air purge procedure? I had power lose after 10-15 minutes as well. I did the fluid change and I feel mine has returned to near normal operation so definitely give that a try.

KBEAT · Jun 4, 2014

Yes I have the Cub Cadet and Hydro Gear manuals. I am going to try the fluid and belt change to see how that does and I will have to purge after the fluid change so we'll see how it goes. Did you use synthetic fluid or dino ?

Rfisher7381 · Jun 4, 2014

KBEAT said:
Yes I have the Cub Cadet and Hydro Gear manuals. I am going to try the fluid and belt change to see how that does and I will have to purge after the fluid change so we'll see how it goes. Did you use synthetic fluid or dino ?

I used full synthetic 20W50.

BukitCase · Jun 4, 2014

Before you dig into the Hydro, you may wanna make sure the drive belt is in good shape - weak left side is one of the symptoms of a belt that's starting to slip - due to the geometry, the left will slip first. Just sayin', a belt is cheaper/easier than the tranny... Steve

KBEAT · Jun 5, 2014

No question there, I went out yesterday and bought a couple quarts of synthetic 20W50 and a new 47" belt. I'm goint to try that on Saturday before I even think about tearing it apart. I just have not seen a single instance of someone taking one of these apart and changing out the motor/pump/thrust bearing inside and having it work. It looks like I could replace most of the hydraulic "guts" for around $200 or so instead of $500 for a new unit. I really don't see what else would be failing in it with it losing power after a few minutes, all the gears, seals and shafts are good. I would change out the filters and such if I went inside, just looking for a success story somewhere to make me feel better about trying. The unit doesn't look that complicated to dissasemble.

Rfisher7381 · Jun 5, 2014

KBEAT said:
No question there, I went out yesterday and bought a couple quarts of synthetic 20W50 and a new 47" belt. I'm goint to try that on Saturday before I even think about tearing it apart. I just have not seen a single instance of someone taking one of these apart and changing out the motor/pump/thrust bearing inside and having it work. It looks like I could replace most of the hydraulic "guts" for around $200 or so instead of $500 for a new unit. I really don't see what else would be failing in it with it losing power after a few minutes, all the gears, seals and shafts are good. I would change out the filters and such if I went inside, just looking for a success story somewhere to make me feel better about trying. The unit doesn't look that complicated to dissasemble.

"The unit doesn't look that complicated to dissasemble."

my problem has always been the reassembly

BukitCase · Jun 5, 2014

If you haven't suffered thru the drive belt change yet, here's my experience -

First of all, that "Mythical" 1/2" square hole they tell you to put a 1/2" breaker bar into, doesn't exist on mine. Looked all over, they also claim one's on the tensioner for the deck - don't remember which was which, but one doesn't exist at all and the other one is there, half covered up by a pulley. PHHHHT!!!?!

Here's what I did, and the tool is now in a special drawer with all the other "special" tools for the next time I need it (which may be soon - my RZT's starting to pull left and has a hard time going uphill)

HTH... Steve

KBEAT · Jun 6, 2014

Yeah, I know what you mean with the idlers. I was going to do it this weekend but could'nt wait so I tore into it last night. The deck belt i'm used to, not a big deal. The drive belt is another story, theres not enough room there to fit any wrench in or my hands. Getting the transmission out is pretty easy, the fluid drained quick and I filled it back up with synthetic 20W50, no problem going through the fill hole like some others had commented. Oil was kinda dark but nothing else obvious (Not sure how it looked when it went in, the synthetic I used was purple). Went to put the new "Shorter" drive belt on and found that the post in here that lists the belt as 47.7" long is wrong, it's 57.7" long, so my new belt has to go back today. I'll find out later how she works with the new juice and belt. Heres hoping

, be nice if that takes care of it.

BukitCase · Jun 12, 2014

KBEAT, any update?

My RZT50 is tryin' to tell me it's time for another belt, but it's a bit different this time, I'm hoping it's NOT the Hydro. I had one go out early on, but fortunately it was still under warranty. Next time it'$ gonna HURT

Any "war stories", hints, etc, might be helpful, thanks... Steve

robbiefritz · Jun 2, 2015

Great thread folks! I am going to look at a Cub Cadet RZT 50VT with a 24hp B&S engine. They note that it has approximately 300 hrs on it. Asking price is $1800 which from what I seem to gather from other sites is high for the hours.

Any thoughts on cost as well as what to look for is appreciated.

BukitCase · Jun 2, 2015

That does seem high, especially with the B&S engine - one of the main reasons I bought mine (new) was the Kawasaki engine - I have an older JD with a 14 horse Kawasaki and it's been bullet-proof, so far same with the 22 horse Kawi twin... Steve

robbiefritz · Jun 2, 2015

BukitCase said:
That does seem high, especially with the B&S engine - one of the main reasons I bought mine (new) was the Kawasaki engine - I have an older JD with a 14 horse Kawasiki and it's been bullet-proof, so far same with the 22 horse Kawi twin... Steve

Thanks. That confirms what I have been reading elsewhere. Well I will go look at it and see. I have seen them going for half as much with the BS.