Cub Cadet RZT 50 will not ever try to crank, just clicks

[Spanner]

Thanks ...
... It was the starter. The nut that holds the spring, gear, etc inside the starter had become so loose that it fell out of the case when the starter was disassembled. We cleaned all the parts, replaced everything in the starter case after making sure that the nut was tightened securely, hooked it back up and the mower started immediately. ...

Good to read of your success. I guess none of us, diagnosing from afar, would venture to say "your starter motor has failed - It's likely dismantled itself internally"...
We were close by pointing you to the Starter, in general. So, well done to get it fixed up and back on the grass.:thumbsup:

No matter how many 'volts' you have you're not going to reassemble a box of parts by turning the key!
Stick around anyway.
Regards,

 

[Morven39]

Well, I cut some more grass today and a PTO problem started again. If I cut grass long enough to turn the PTO switch off to dump the grass from my bagger 3 or more times, when I pull the PTO switch to turn the PTO on, it will not turn on. If I park it and go back much later after everything cools down or the next day and crank the mower to start mowing again, when I pull the PTO switch the PTO starts going like it should. Without just replacing the PTO, how do I check the wiring asap after it quits working to find out if it is getting power or it is one of the hateful safety switches not letting power get to the PTO? I hate to replace the expensive PTO if it is just a safety switch problem or wiring gone bad. Any help appreciated.

 

[BukitCase]

Those symptoms sound similar to a problem that's bitten me in the butt once, then tried to do it in a couple OTHER instances (but I was ready for it :laughing: ) - (of course, it could also just be the overly "cheesy" PTO switch taking a break due to heat)

Solenoid switches (and ignition coils) are wound with REALLY fine magnet wire (bare, single strand wire, insulated by only a varnish coating) - one of the downsides of single strand wire is that there's only one strand to break -

I've had solenoids AND ignition coils do this - either thru vibration, repeated operations or possibly minor stress cracks, the coil winding wire manages to break - but since it's wound tightly inside a coil form, there's no place for the two (now separate) ends to go, so they just SIT there; and as often as not, they are STILL TOUCHING EACH OTHER...

When you first start USING whatever device it is, it's COOL and it's making connection. As things warm up, they EXPAND - now those two halves of the tiny wire can "get away from" each other, and no more current flows. When things cool off, it works again

The (hopefully) GOOD news - there may be a way to troubleshoot this in YOUR time frame with no rushing needed - if you can get at BOTH connections to the PTO, and at least ONE of them has a spade lug connection you can DISCONNECT, you can then connect a DMM across the PTO coil - If you DON'T have at least one of the connections unhooked, the DMM may read OTHER things in the circuit which will confuse the results.

With the mower at rest and the DMM hooked across the PTO coil, you should read a few ohms resistance - with the rear wheels up on ramps (or similar) you should be able to see the PTO - if you then heat up the area around the solenoid with either a high power hair dryer or a heat gun, if there's an intermittent connection as I've described your DMM will (eventually) go to infinity (open, OL, etc)

By testing this way, there's no rush to "find it before it goes away" -

Be careful getting the heat gun too close to the deck belt; they can take some heat, but I wouldn't push it.

I've not had this problem with MY RZT50 (yet) but I HAVE come up with solutions for a couple of OTHER PITA's on this machine involving deck and drive belt replacements so if anyone HATES doing those things I'll be glad to elaborate... Steve

 

[Richard001]

Have you adjusted the air gap in the PTO clutch?

If not, that could well be the problem.

Richard

 

[Morven39]

Thanks. I will get with my grandson who is a certified mechanic and get him to check how you mentioned. I am near 80 years old and unable to crawl around under the mower. Hopefully it isn't the PTO.

Morven39

 

[Morven39]

Thanks Richard. I will get my grandson to check the air gap in the PTO also. Hopefully he will be able to help me with this problem. He is a certified Ford mechanic but should understand what you and BukitCase mentioned that should be checked.

Morven39

 

[tomplum]

You could also check the leads that head toward the clutch for power /ground when it is acting up.

 

[Morven39]

Thanks. I will make sure to tell my grandson to check the clutch power/ground lead when he is can come over to check.