Culvert

[Richard]

With regard to digging out... I could also take the box blade and scrape most of the gravel away while at the same time, slicing down in a more controlled fashion than the backhoe. (thinking out loud)

 

[Jim Timber]

When I had to dig mine out (20' flatbed drove off the edge of my road - crushing and bending a 24" steel culvert), I used the loader to scrape off most of the top cover before the mini-ex came in and dug out next to the pipe before then lifting it out.

If you repair the one you have, and are particular about not disturbing the bedding it's in, you can just get the top dressing off, replace the pipe in the bed, then fill it over again. That'll leave the existing structure intact (if you can do it).

Supporting the bottom of the pipe is critical to it's integrity under load, so the bedding is as important as the top cover's depth to distribute the weight. If you need to dig out the trench, use coarse aggregate for base and tamp it with your backhoe's bucket real good before filling in around the pipe. You also want to keep tamping in lifts as you fill the work area. Ground prep is probably more important to the longevity of the culvert than the pipe itself.

 

[DJ54]

You'll need to remove material from the top, plus dig down on the sides, past center, and get all dirt away from it. Even at that, with it being filled with wet heavy debris, if that's single wall pipe, I seriously doubt it will take the stress needed to lift it out, with all of that weight inside. It's not all that rigid, and will more than likely bend/break just beyond your lifting point.

We found years ago, any of the early single wall pipe that has been exposed to UV light for a couple of years, will get brittle, and break easy.

 

[Deere Dude]

I wouldn't fool around with trying to save the old pipe because new double wall pipes are so cheap. I think so much time would be taken to get the old one out methodically and more than likely would get punctured and break up anyway. Just rip into it and get a nice pad and refill.

 

[Richard]

First off...what kind of traffic is going over this culvert/road ? If it gets alot of use and heavy vehicles then i would opt to install the metal corrugated pipe.

Just noticed you were in Tellico Plains. I work in Madisonville one day a week (I work in Madisonville, Maryville, Greenback and Sweetwater)

You're about the closest person I've seen on this forum to me.

PS: How do I go edit the title? It bugs me that it says Culver

 

[buckeyefarmer]

Drew just posted some pics of his culvert install in the "Good Morning" thread.

 

[Richard]

Went out a while ago and started poking around with the hoe.

Looks like it is about 12" ID (eyeballing it) It is single wall and, it's full of sediment!

As I tried to lift the end out of the ground with the backhoe, it broke about three feet of pipe. I'm guessing it will do this to the rest of it as we dig it up. That's ok.... we'll need to get the dirt that's in there, out somehow. Sections will make it easier to handle. Could barely lift this piece (by hand) with the sediment packed in there.

Now, where on earth do you find dual walled corrugated pipe like this?

Box stores don't seem to have it. Been looking online and coming up with nothing nearby.

 

[LD1]

Now, where on earth do you find dual walled corrugated pipe like this?

Box stores don't seem to have it. Been looking online and coming up with nothing nearby.

Dont know what you have, but up here Menards, Lowes, Home depot, Carter Lumber/Holmes lumber all carry it.

 

[Richard]

As best I can tell, Lowes/HD here have it discontinued. They only carry something that is 6-8 inches.

Still hunting...

We decided to leave the pipe in the ground (so we can continue to drive slowly over it) until we get the replacement pipe in hand. Then we can hopefully dig it out and replace it at same time rather than leave an open ditch for a week.

 

[Streetcar]

Most building supply stores would carry the culvert. Shipping would kill you on Internet purchase