Loader Curl/Dump control very stiff

[npalen]

Have you tried a bit of grease inside the cap just in case the spring and/or washer is rubbing?

Edit: Reason I asked about the vented cap is on the slim chance that there could be a pressure buildup in the cap pushing against the spool. I know, sounds silly.

 

[CobyRupert]

...the weird part is not only does it work fine when cap is taken off, but works well for a few days before mystery ailment returns.
...so whatever the problem is, it doesn't immediately return when cap is reinstalled.

 

[CobyRupert]

So it's stiff until tractor has run 1/2 hour...but goes away when cap is removed.
...leads one to believe it's possibly something heat related (i.e. goes away once warm(er) oil starts circulating.)

Like others have mentioned is there too much grease...or some kind of "tar" / residue that's stiff when its cold, loosens up when warm?
....that or aliens!

 

[Gregster613]

The last time I took the cap off I tried putting it back together with hardly any grease; it didn't seem to make any difference. The next time I remove the cap I'm going to try putting a slight coating of Fluid Film inside vice the grease. I think that for some reason the small little opening at the farthest end of the cap is causing the small round washer to bind up until the oil warms everything up? I just can't figure out why this is happening - out of the blue? I thought at first that the spool itself was binding, but upon removing the cap completely, then the spool immediately functions as it's supposed to. So that should eliminate the spool and the cables? It's a puzzler for sure.

I'll eventually find some solution - I'm hoping - but I haven't had the time lately to pursue it due to the holidays approaching and numerous other items that take priority (SWMBO) states!
If and when I get it puzzled out I'll post what worked.

 

[Bkjohns]

Looks like the caps are the same, so maybe swap them and see what happens?

 

[CobyRupert]

“Small opening at end of cap” ???
Not just a cap?
Pics might help.
What if you dremel hole larger?

 

[Gregster613]

Colby, What I was referring to is the small "indentation" formed on the "inside" of the cap at the farthest end of the cap; formed into and part of the cap itself. The spot where the spring/plunger for the float slips into - I assume. I did "not" mean to imply that there are any holes in the cap itself. Sorry for the imprecise wording I used. Both of the caps are identical, however the lift/lower side uses the float feature while the curl/dump side has no need for float. I'm going to find some time today to fiddle with it some more and I'm going to try coating the insides with fluid film and see what that produces.
Greg

 

[Gregster613]

Well, I put fluid film inside vice grease and it is a bit better but still very stiff when first started up. After running the hydraulics some (a short while) and the oil warms to touch (hoses I mean) then it's all good again. I believe my loader valve itself (the spool inside) is what's initially sluggish; then as oil warms it frees itself up. Sticky to slide forwards/backwards. I don't know of any way to flush out the valve itself, and since it does (eventually) work fine I'm reluctant to be taking things apart anyhow. I just find it perplexing that out of the blue it would start to do this and only on the dump/curl side.

My hydraulic oil is clean, filter and strainer good [although I haven't opened them up since my 50 hour checkup and I'm at about 900 hrs now] and the hydraulic oil shouldn't effect just one side of a spool valve anyway I'd think. Guess I'll just have to live with it as it is. I'm a believer in "If it ain't broke - Don't fix it." It's just a bummer to have to fight to get it moving to hook up to anything on the loader at the start of a job. I've now gotten my diverter valve and thumb assembled, in place, and working but am slowed to use them until my hydraulic oil warms up. Oh well, just thought I'd inform about the fluid film. It seems to be working fine but was not the cure all for the problem.

 

[NEEDLES617]

A new loader valve is $550 if you're feelin froggy.

 

[Gregster613]

Needles617...Not froggy yet, $550 buys me a whole lot of patience!! But that's most likely the only sure cure for my dilemma. Is that a dealer item/price? If I knew how to successfully cross-reference valves could probably find one much cheaper online. Like a Prince valve, or somewhere else. I'd want it to be a bolt-on replacement though, everything fitting the same. No idea on how to chase that thought though.