Current version of Briggs Fuel Treatment

   / Current version of Briggs Fuel Treatment #11  
This is the reason I moved to Seafoam. Stabil I think is good to stabilize gas but since Seafoam does the same PLUS it cleans as in your case we just treat our stored fuel with Seafoam now. Over using Seafoam is something I need to read up on.
 
   / Current version of Briggs Fuel Treatment #12  
This is the reason I moved to Seafoam. Stabil I think is good to stabilize gas but since Seafoam does the same PLUS it cleans as in your case we just treat our stored fuel with Seafoam now. Over using Seafoam is something I need to read up on.

Gale,
It is claimed that overuse will eat seals and gaskets by folks that have learned the hard way in auto forums.
That's why I don't want a double bowl carb with it in there over winter even at the prescribed dose.
There may be no harm in it, but I'm old and have learned my share the hard way too.
 
   / Current version of Briggs Fuel Treatment
  • Thread Starter
#13  
I know Seafoam from the old motorcycle world. No chemical is going to fix mechanically broken carb parts, but Seafoam has a well earned rep there for saving gucked up carbs. I use it as an occasional maintenance dose, in addtion to red Stabil.

What E-contaminated gas has seemingly created is a market for an all-in-one high detergency fuel stabilizer. That seems to be the thinking behind Stabil Marine, and this new Briggs formula.

Well, at least Egas has done great things - for the fuel additive companies !

Rgds, D.
 
   / Current version of Briggs Fuel Treatment #14  
ok fair enough. question: it seems there are a few reasons for a treatment/additive to today's excuse for gas.....treating for extended storage and & treating for ethanol (removing h20?) i have to buy 2 stabil products to achieve this (red & ethanol treatment).....does seafoam do this in a single product dose? thx
 
   / Current version of Briggs Fuel Treatment #15  
Gale,
It is claimed that overuse will eat seals and gaskets by folks that have learned the hard way in auto forums.
That's why I don't want a double bowl carb with it in there over winter even at the prescribed dose.
There may be no harm in it, but I'm old and have learned my share the hard way too.

Very interesting info.

This summer we picked up a 2000-2002 Polaris 325 Magnum ATV. It had one dirty fuel tank so we put in 8 oz of Seafoam and about 3 gallons of Shell V-Power 93 octane on the way home with it.

Over the summer we replaced rubber fuel and oil cooler lines and new valve adjusting port covers and some other wear items. We got it to running again but needed to readjust the carb but when we got around to it the rubber tip on the float shut off needle had failed and it filled the cylinder and crankcase with gas that was treated with Sea Foam so we rebuilt the carb. The carb bowl over flow stem was stopped up but it was cleared during the carb rebuild.

When I was warming it up to set the carb it was running with good power at the higher RPM then it just lost power and died.

The compression tested out at about 35 PSI or 1/3 of min it should have had. When connected to the air compressor it will air up to about 25 PSI max and air is coming out of the breather tube and dip stick hole when the plug is removed. Both valves are closed with no air flow noise coming out the intake or exhaust.

I have never seen a motor that would start and run with power go to low compression in 10 minute time. Unless they broke I know the rings did not wear that much in a few minutes. A leaking head gasket crossed my mind. It was never ran with gas in the crankcase and we brought up the oil pressure several times with the spark plug out to insure new motor oil had pumped everywhere before starting it.

Over the summer we did circulate Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) through the crank case with the plug out using the starter just for the heck of it to remove carbon build up that may be in the engine. After falling flat on my back 15 Sep it was not able to do much myself.

Friday it is to be 60F (open garage) so we may pull the cylinder head to check the head gasket. We have already pulled the top cover to look at the cam shaft and automatic compression release but both were fine and the cam lobes are still at factor new specs.

I was planning to look at the rod bearing but it is a leaking head gasket I may skip that on this ATV but go ahead and replace the rings since we are only a few bolts away from getting to them when we check the head gasket. We have the bore cam so we can look down the timing chain hole and see if we can see if the head gasket is leaking at that point for the heck of it.

Late summer we picked up a 2002 twin ATV as a project with a known engine knock due to the guy blowing an oil cooler hose going down the road and pumping out the oil. I am using the ATV's to teach engine rebuilding to the kids so it it more a learning project than a riding project. :) We do want them both running well by spring. The non running ATV may or may not have crankshaft damage. We are hoping new set of rod inserts will fix the knock and we can do it without splitting the crankcase.

I can see between Seafoam, MMO soaks all summer then a gallon of gas flowing to the crank case after filling the cylinder it may have cut out carbon sealing the head gasket. On top of that after we drained the oil (only pure motor oil came out of the plug at first) because gas came running out when we went to check the oil it was hydro locked and the starter could not turn it over but the straight gas would have put a lot of pressure on the head gasket when it tried to turn the engine leading it to fail after 10 minutes.

On Ebay I did see a cylinder (jug) for sale and showed a build up of carbon from the cylinder to the timing chain space. A head gasket leak at that point would pressurize the crankcase because the head gasket would still be sealing the timing chain passage to the outside world.

After talking about all of this I am looking forward to getting the top end torn down. We have purchased from different sources off Ebay a complete top end of high quality (in spec) because we review what we are going to do before we open the engines. I have a new top end gasket set and a new set of rings so it is the head gasket leaking we have the parts to fix it on hand. If the cylinder or piston has failed we will got back with the tight used ones.

Thanks for your comments about Fuel Treatment and Seafoam over dosage concerns.

After posting I realized how long it was. I had written it in two or three stages over the last hour between other things. If the blown ATV engine is due to overuse of (fuel stabilizer) Seafoam/MMO/gasoline soaking of head gasket under pressure I may come back and move this into an engine rebuild tread. :)
 
   / Current version of Briggs Fuel Treatment #16  
ok fair enough. question: it seems there are a few reasons for a treatment/additive to today's excuse for gas.....treating for extended storage and & treating for ethanol (removing h20?) i have to buy 2 stabil products to achieve this (red & ethanol treatment).....does seafoam do this in a single product dose? thx

Everything has its season. Over the years there have been hundreds of additives and magic elixirs come and go for combustion engines.

A lot of their worth or satisfaction is in the eyes of the beholder. You will always find folks who think a product is great and others who think it is crap.

Most of the folks on TBN are hobby farmers, me included, and will likely never ruin their equipment or tell any difference if they never use additives or change the oils in their tractors. It just takes more to satisfy some than others that they are doing the right thing and they base what they do on
what and where they happen to read of the experiences of others.

I think there is talk now or legislation to relax or eliminate ethanol in fuel in many states as they really have found no benefits and we all know
the problems it causes or at least we like to blame on it.

IMO there is no answer to your question. If you try it for a few years and like it you found it.

If you are a synthetic oil believer and user here's a question for you.

What percent of a quart of synthetic oil is synthetic?
 
   / Current version of Briggs Fuel Treatment
  • Thread Starter
#17  
ok fair enough. question: it seems there are a few reasons for a treatment/additive to today's excuse for gas.....treating for extended storage and & treating for ethanol (removing h20?) i have to buy 2 stabil products to achieve this (red & ethanol treatment).....does seafoam do this in a single product dose? thx

These brand extensions get a little confusing. I think red Stabil on it's own should do it for you, assuming you want to store.

Put another way - I think they saw a market for Ethanol protection in regular use road vehicles. Many of those customers would rightly ask "Why should I pay for a fuel stabilizer in a high-use vehicle, when all I really want is ethanol protection ?" So... they created a specialized Ethanol version - the idea being that you could manage the ethanol/water issue all the time, and not just at storage.

From their site:

STA-BIL Ethanol Treatment
Q: What is the difference between new STA-BIL's Ethanol Treatment, STA-BIL's Fuel Stabilizer, and Marine Formula STA-BIL ?

A: STA-BIL's Fuel Stabilizer is designed for use during STORAGE of any gasoline equipment or vehicle stored for 30 days or more, or used infrequently. It will keep gas fresh for 12 months, and help prevent corrosion, and gum and varnish formation. It is effective in all gasolines, including Ethanol blends, including E-85.

Marine Formula STA-BIL Ethanol Treatment was designed for use at every fill up for marine engines (boats, jetskis) to protect against the damaging effects experienced when using Ethanol blended fuels -- including corrosion caused by water attraction, and fuel system plugging caused by deposit loosening.

New STA-BIL Ethanol Treatment is designed for use at every fill up for all gasoline automotive and small engines for protection against these same problems.


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   / Current version of Briggs Fuel Treatment #18  
If you are a synthetic oil believer and user here's a question for you.

What percent of a quart of synthetic oil is synthetic?

For what it is worth 4-5 years ago I read to meet the newest API standard dino oil was at that time 25% synthetic. This may have be 'web' info only but it was in an oil related thread.

Since I see synthetic oil sometimes just $0.50 to $1 more than some dino motor oil per quart it is my guess today's top brands for dino contains a sizable amount of synthetic motor oil.

In Big Lots the other day I saw Peak Dino for $3.50 and Quaker State synthetic for $4. I do understand Big Lots' buyers are looking hard for good deals but I expect QS did not dump it well below their cost. :)
 
   / Current version of Briggs Fuel Treatment #19  
Gale,
Truthfully I had never heard of Seafoam until some of the folks on the Texas thread talked about it this summer.
I'm from the old days of Gumout. Must be a 30 year old can of it around here somewhere.
We used to pull the throttle back a little and slowly pour some in the carb. Then dump the rest in to kill the engine.
Restart and rev it up a little. Really in those days the best tuneup was to take the car out on a quiet strip of straight road,
mash the throttle to open all 4 barrels and go for a mile or more to the next curve. It was fun and always convinced us the engine was running better
afterwords, if it didn't blow up.:laughing:

The thing that convinced me that Seafoam might have some value but be hard on soft materials in the fuel system was the packaging.
In today's world with the handy sight views with ounce markings, Seafoam is still in a metal can. They didn't do that to save money and be competitive.

There is a plastic thread at the top but I would not store the can on its side.
 
   / Current version of Briggs Fuel Treatment #20  
Very good point. The gallon cans are metal as well.

About 18 years ago I took out a head gasket in a 1987 Nissan 2400 engine with low mileage in the PU 200 miles from home due to Techron overdosing.

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