cut pipe for plow cutting edge

[GolfAddict]

In case you haven't seen what they look like on my plow:

View attachment 348567

Thanks again. I would like to do something to have gauge wheels added on mine, so this gives me ideas. I've also searched and found some threads on here with various ways folks have done similar, including yours.

I don't have fabrication capabilities, but there is a local shop. I'll have to run some ideas past them, and I think pictures of other solutions will help...

 

[TractorNH]

Resurrecting an old thread to show the slotted pipe I added on my 8’ Fisher Speedcast Plow. I have loose crushed gravel on my driveway and hoping this will help keep from digging in before the driveway freezes. It is a 3" pipe with a clevis style point of attachment so it is easy to remove once everything is frozen and ice covered but also easy to put back on for the late spring storms when the ground has started to thaw.

 

[oosik]

I find it a whole lot easier to reverse the blade 180 degrees until the driveway freezes up good and hard.

 

[mangus580]

I am on my 3rd (maybe 4th? dont recall now!) season with a pipe on my 7.5' Fisher plow. I plow commercially, and have on average had 20+ contracts each year. My original pipe still, now has a flat spot of about 1.5" on the bottom! (its a 2.5" pipe I think)

It still works great! Yard repair is minimal to not at all now. So glad I did this, and I am shopping for pipe to do my V plow, my other straight blade, and all 3 of my partners blades as well.

I do like how TractorNH has attached his! I would love a removable setup, as sometimes I need to scrape pavement down....

 

[nyone]

I find it easier to not plow the first few small storms. Until its ether packed down or we get 5-6in i dont plow my gravel driveway. Its flat and we have front wheel drive cars, no ones got stuck.

For plow blades the backdrag blade on myy fisher EzV was a game changer. I can now scrape going in reverse just like going forward. The design is very simple.

 

[JohnnyMX]

I tried the pipe method and it worked great. The plow was 7' and I cut the pipe to 7' and welded two tabs on it to bolt it through where the cutting edge bolts up. I have everything from very fine chips to 1" and 2" crusher for a parking area and 1/2" long drive. We also have concrete curbing that holds the gravel in around the parking area. The pipe worked absolutely terrific. I was able to just drop the plow and go. The shoes were just digging in and tearing everything up. This just floated across the gravel, up over the curbing, and across the lawn with zero damage.

 

[metalbender]

Just reviving a not too old thread. Finally got round to it. Did the pipe on the blade cutting edge thing. 1 1/2 inch sched 40 pipe, sliced out a strip to slip over the edge and bolted on. Figured that was the best way to support the pipe over it's 87 inch length. Initial testing lets me float the loader without tripping the blade. The next snow event will tell.

 

[ChevyKeith]

I finally added a metal tube to cutting edge on my L5240. Thought I would share some pics. Have not had a chance to try it out.
Used an old Jepson hand dry cutter - looks like a circ saw but cuts metal to slice the pipe - if you get a chance to find one of these used they are great

I have pretty thick steel for tabs - just cause that's what was laying around and about the right size. Tube was also something I found not really sure what it is.
Got a quarter mile of dirt road and a quarter mile of regrind at the house and was tearing up the horse mats I was using as rubber blades too often so decided to try metal.

 

[JohnnyMX]

I just took my plow off for the season and checked the pipe for wear. It was schedule 40 pipe and was thinning based on just one season of use. I got after it with the hard-facing rod to build up the bottom and it will hopefully extend the life of the pipe through a few more seasons.

 

[MercRec]

This was a great improvement for float and keeping gravel on the drive.