cut pipe for plow cutting edge
- Thread starter jimmysisson
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jimmysisson
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- 1993 NH 2120 (the best), 1974 MF 135 (sold, but solid), 1947 Farmall A (bought, sold, bought back, sold again), 1956 MH50 lbt (sold, in 1980, darn it)
I don't really want to buy new tools (shocking!) so may just try the torch guided with a straightedge. It's not like it needs a glove fit; snug should be fine. Thanks for all the input everyone.
Jim
Jim
Rated for 1 5/8" mild steel.... :shocked:
Man... death grip on those handles FOR SURE!! :laughing:
oldbones
Bronze Member
Know anyone with a plasma cutter? Tack a piece of angle iron on your pipe for a guide. Make first cut. Move and re-tack angle iron. Make second cut. Neat, clean, won't distort pipe, and about 15 minutes of time.
News flash: THERE IS NO NEED TO SLIT A STEEL PIPE FOR THIS PURPOSE. :confused3:
Weld some tabs on it, and bolt it on in front of the blade. If you do it right, you won't notice the difference, and neither will the plow.
Weld some tabs on it, and bolt it on in front of the blade. If you do it right, you won't notice the difference, and neither will the plow.
OP
jimmysisson
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- 1993 NH 2120 (the best), 1974 MF 135 (sold, but solid), 1947 Farmall A (bought, sold, bought back, sold again), 1956 MH50 lbt (sold, in 1980, darn it)
Got a pic of how it's attached? Tab size and thickness? I'd rather not slit the pipe, for sure.
Jim
Jim
There are lots of different ways you can do this, without the difficulty of slitting the pipe.
You can make a U shaped tab that fits over the blade, and weld the pipe to the front side of the tab. Like this: oU
Or, the last one I did, I used 3/16" flat, and attached the tab to the front of the blade, and then I welded the pipe to it. Like this: ol
Works just fine. And it only took a few minutes. I have 2 of these tabs, on a 6' pipe.
Aligning the tabs with the existing bolt holes on the plow, makes it an easy job.
I will post a photo, when I get some time in the next few days.
You can make a U shaped tab that fits over the blade, and weld the pipe to the front side of the tab. Like this: oU
Or, the last one I did, I used 3/16" flat, and attached the tab to the front of the blade, and then I welded the pipe to it. Like this: ol
Works just fine. And it only took a few minutes. I have 2 of these tabs, on a 6' pipe.
Aligning the tabs with the existing bolt holes on the plow, makes it an easy job.
I will post a photo, when I get some time in the next few days.
srs
Veteran Member
thank you.
Here is a photo:
Attachments
mangus580
Gold Member
Somehow I have missed the purpose.... I presume its to keep the cutting edge from actually cutting in?
Is this to be used in place of shoes? or with shoes on the blade? Does it end up leaving more snow behind?
Is this to be used in place of shoes? or with shoes on the blade? Does it end up leaving more snow behind?
Yes, the primary reason is to help keep the plow from digging in. This is of course, helpful when plowing gravel.
My plow has this pipe, and pneumatic casters in place of shoes.
The plow rides primarily on the casters. The cutting edge then can float along on top of the gravel, or since it is a loader frame plow, I can use the bucket tilt mechanism to adjust it so that it rides just above the gravel.
I usually try to pack down the first 3-4 inches of snow, then plowing my drive with this set up is pretty easy.
mangus580
Gold Member
Thanks ray.... I think I need to make one for my new plow I just assembled then. The plow I made for the tractor has the primary purpose of clearing parts of the lawn - so I am on grass. I need to eliminate the potential for digging in as much as possible.
mikehaugen
Elite Member
I would imagine this would also help to keep from spreading the gravel into the grass? That would sure be nice.
It won't hurt.
OP
jimmysisson
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Ray, thanks for the pic. That was kind of what I imagined. As long as the tabs are pretty stout it should hold up all right. Soon, soon...
Jim
Jim
When you go forward, the force is pushing the pipe up against the blade, so the tabs really don't have much pressure on them.
The tabs only need to resist a lot of pressure, when you back drag the blade. Which we mostly don't do. And, only the bottom edge of the pipe is receiving that pressure, so that really isn't a problem on the ones I have done.
You could also use U shaped tabs, if you do have a problem with it bending from back dragging.
GolfAddict
Veteran Member
Did you find these somewhere, or was it something you made? I'd like to be able to swap out my shoes and slide in casters, but haven't found any that would fit.
I ordered the casters online somewhere, (don't remember where), and made the mounts myself.
You can't just swap them, because the casters need a lot more room to swing around. There also needs to be sufficient clearance between the plow and the tractor when it's angled, to leave room for the caster to swing.
The last thing I did to it was change the for the plow from a rigid mount to a hinged one, just like it mounts on a plow truck. That allows the plow to float up and down some.
The loader arms stay fixed, and the plow rides on the casters.
The bucket tilt cylinders allow me to set the desired height for the blade. Because, in the mounting hinges I put a stop to control how far the plow hinges downward. That way, I can keep it above the gravel, or set it down on it. The lower limit stops work to set the height the same way the chain does, that lifts and lowers the plow on a truck.
GolfAddict
Veteran Member
OK, thanks. I guessed you likely must have made something up. I may have to figure out a way to do that myself....
