Cut tree hung in crotch of another tree

[Ortimber]

I normally keep cutting 4' chunks off the bottom. Many times when near vertical, they fall. Be careful.

Yep, that's my solution as well.

 

[RalphVa]

Let it stay. It will eventually fall. We get them falling that way all the time. They eventually come to the ground where you can deal with them.

Patience.

Ralph

 

[lman]

Newbury's solution edited:

I rely heavily on being able to hear the trees creak giving me time to move my butt.
I've never had the luxury of big backhoes. Donations welcome
Good luck
Stay safe
Keep cool and spaced out.

I've resolved many hangups in the same way, except I don't have an electric saw. I've had a few close calls, but never got hurt.

 

[Garandman]

I know that is what I would do, no way would I cut on that "thing". Pull that sucker out and it will fall with you and your machinery far far away.

A good big come along or chain falls could work too, solves the traction problem.

In pesky situations like this we use an arborist rope and a big snatch block.

If he lifted the loose end up, cut it off, and lowered it again, would it pull itself out?

 

[skipperbrown]

A tree service will probably charge $500 to $1000 to cut this tree out for you. One trip to the ER will start at $2500 and go up from there and will possibly expose you to a virus. Just saying ....

 

[oosik]

It's been 25+ years since I've fell a pine for firewood. However - every now and then a big pine will die - Pinebark beetle. I just let them rot off and fall. Last pine I fell from Pinebark beetle was almost a disaster. As it began falling - the top 20' or so broke free and fell independently. Amazing how fast this old man can move when necessary.

 

[Richard]

The rest of the story (admission I've not read ALL comments so I might miss something)

I've been hesitant on using my outriggers because as it happens, BOTH of them have finally sprung a leak and lose pressure.

I DID "drive up" onto the tree using the front bucket as a weight to push tree down thinking it would pull it out of the crotch. Didn't happen (to the degree I drove up on tree)

I started to cut the tree using my pole saw but as it happens, it's an oak tree and just smoked the little blade on the saw.


We did the tractor/backhoe thing.

I don't have pictures. I don't know the size of his JD but it's "about" 40 HP and we attached 25' chain to his drawbar. I was roughly middle of tree and pinched it with backhoe bucket so I could help pull sideways....lift up, push down....

Had to reposition to get a better angle and decided oil be damned, I put my outriggers down which lifted me much higher so now I can reach higher and "poof" Tree loosened in crotch and with the sideways pull from the JD, it came right out and slid down the tree (actually down two trees)

So my wife's cousin now has a nice piece of oak to replace some of his used firewood.


Side comment.... I wanted the ENTIRE tree down. Even as it is, there are a couple branches that sheared off and are crammed in the crotch but, the tree itself is down. I was going to chunk it down but didn't want it hanging there and me unable to get it down AND now too short to easily reach.... so I was holding that card back.

In truth, it wasn't really a LOT that was holding it in but it was darn tight in there.

Now I get to go have some breakfast!!

 

[ericm979]

I would use Newbury's solution. Cut vertically down, don't try to cross cut the tree. It'll pinch the bar. A felling wedge (plastic) helps once you get more than 1/2 through. When the tree is cut, the butt will fall straight down. Remember to hold the saw up. First time I did this, I let the tree drag the saw to the ground, pinching the bar in the dirt. If the tree doesn't fall, make another cut. As the tree approaches vertical, it will fall out of the crotch. Be aware to the tree movement, have your escape path planned.

A cross cut works. Cut in 1/4 or so from the top. You don't need to cut out a wedge like in felling but it doesn't hurt and can guide how the tree moves when the final cut is complete. Then cut the rest up from the bottom. You want your last cut to be on the tension side not the compression side so the bar is not pinched. Also since the bar ends up in the middle of the trunk when the tree finally breaks, it doesn't go into the dirt. No need for felling wedges with this technique unless you misjudge the forces on the tree.

Here's a video from a wildland fire saw instructor showing the technique: Hang-up Tree Removal, Step-Cut Technique - YouTube

 

[Richard]

I can see that this thread isn't going to have the staying power of a rounded drain plug.

:drink:

 

[k0ua]

See, guys told you it would all be over before noon. Good job.