Cutting a log lengthwise for a fireplace mantle

[Lloyd_E]

General rule for airing drying is 1" thickness per year. Could you a swap - take the log to a local mill to cut or swap materials for a live edge pieces that they may have. Does she want a live edge on it or just squared up?

 

[kco]

I have a Beam Machine that worked well for cutting timbers for an outdoor bench.

http://www.beammachine.com/

 

[EddieWalker]

I just finished a mantle for my parents fireplace that was a cedar tree from the land. It had been down for a couple of years and had a really nice shape to it. I wanted it to be 5 1/2 feet long with a flat top and back. The front and bottom where to remain natural in shape, but highly sanded.

To cut it, I used a chalk line to have something to follow. I put the log in a pair X shaped saw horses that I made from scrap 2x4's at an easy to cut height. First I cut it shallow with the chainsaw to get my line. Then I cut it all the way, taking my time to make sure I kept the blade straight down. Then I rotated the log 90 degrees, put down another chalk line, cut it shallow, then cut it all the way.

The log was about a foot longer then I wanted it, so after cutting the length, I cut it down to the exact length that I wanted it to be.

Then I sanded it with my big belt sander and used a six foot level as a straight edge to find my high and low spots. With 40 grit paper, it got it all leveled and smoothed out in a couple of hours.



Eddie

 

[woodlandfarms]

I used my Alaskan mill to do a mantle for my neighbor. No pix, had to build a custom mill head (not so custom but it works) to do the verticle cut. A ripping chain is very nice to have in the process. Downside is that a big piece of wood needs years to properly dry.

These are some pictures of maple and cedar I cut up.... Making property benches (benches along hiking trails)

 

[Egon]

I have a Beam Machine that worked well for cutting timbers for an outdoor bench.
E slower
http://www.beammachine.com/

The Beam Machine is the way to go. Just use your regular chain for a one time effort. It will just be a little slower.

Or: screw a 2x4 onto the log as you have stated. Then bolt a piece of wood/steel at 90 degrees to the bar and use that for alinement. You'll have to drill a hole in the bar but that is not a big deal.:thumbsup:

Cut the piece at least a foot and a half longer than required.
An electric hand planer would work well for finishing it off just prior to sanding.

 

[Fan of the 1911]

Eddy Walker that looks GREAT!!!

 

[s219]

I have a Granberg Alaskan Chainsaw Mill, as well as their Mini Mill (which is cheaper and the only thing you need for sawing beams or a piece like this mantle). However, I use a 77cc chainsaw, because that is what's required for milling (and many people go even bigger). I also use rip chains. You will most likely melt down your little Husky if you attempt to use that saw for such a long (time wise) set of cuts. It will not cool quickly enough, and it's not a pro saw that can handle repeated long cuts.

As far as drying, do not expect quick results if you want to do it right. A piece like that is going to need to air dry for a few years. The only way to accelerate it without wrecking the wood is to find someone with a kiln who knows how to use it.

Not trying to rain on your parade here, but you're heading in a direction that will trash your saw and leave you with a big warped piece of green wood.

 

[wawajake]

Thanks everyone............what Eddie Walker is describing is the look I am going for. So I think I will try to get the full log out of the bush (with my snowmachine maybe with a sled drag) and then use chalkline or 2 x 4 strapped to it like Eddie and others described.
The drying part will be the tricky part, I have finished other rustic furniture (like bar stools) before that was only cut green 3 months before and it still looks great. I am not worried so much about checking,(that just adds to the rustic flavour) I just want varnish finish to stay on it.
here is pic of bar stools that I need mantle to match

 

[Gunny]

You could make up a frame to cover the log, drape some plastic over it, then provide a little heat and ventilation to dry it out faster. A 100 watt light bulb and a small muffin fan would greatly speed the process up. Just remember to do like has been suggested and seal the ends. Even this method will take quite a bit of time to dry out to a workable moisture content, but a lot faster than just air drying.

 

[cartod]

Load it on a trailer and take it to a local saw mill. That's what I would do.