cutting angle in bandsaw?

[sandman2234]

sandman was absolutely right that one leg of the vice was too loose. I tightened it up and reduced the spring tension a bit.

I think I understand now. thanks much for all the help.

Your welcome.
Hopefully I haven't made an enemy of Shield Arc in the process of trying to help, as I wasn't saying he was wrong, but I did want to make sure everyone knew that a minimum number of teeth is required, or you just shred blade teeth.
Patience comes into play with the down pressure, so just set it up, and walk away, find something else to do until you hear the "Kerr-plunk" of the part hitting the floor, which brings up another suggestion...
Lay a piece of plywood on the floor in the area where your saw drops parts to protect the concrete from the chipping which over time could mean a lot of concrete damage.

David from jax

 

[Shield Arc]

Hopefully I haven't made an enemy of Shield Arc in the process of trying to help, as I wasn't saying he was wrong, but I did want to make sure everyone knew that a minimum number of teeth is required, or you just shred blade teeth.

Oh no, noway!:thumbsup:
I think you just made it clearer / more understandable. I have a bad habit of over simplifying things.
I use blades that are 6-teeth per inch. Even tho my saw will cut 14-inch plate flat, I cut most all flatbar straight up. My steel supplier has gone to the trouble of building an adjustable wedge that goes under all their flatbar in an attempt to get the proper amount of teeth in contact. But just think of the amount of steel they cut each day?

Here's a good article on band saw blades.
Band saw blade basics - Sawing Tech Cell - TheFabricator.com

 

[sandman2234]

Oh no, noway!:thumbsup:
I think you just made it clearer / more understandable. I have a bad habit of over simplifying things.
I use blades that are 6-teeth per inch. Even tho my saw will cut 14-inch plate flat, I cut most all flatbar straight up. My steel supplier has gone to the trouble of building an adjustable wedge that goes under all their flatbar in an attempt to get the proper amount of teeth in contact. But just think of the amount of steel they cut each day?

Here's a good article on band saw blades.
Band saw blade basics - Sawing Tech Cell - TheFabricator.com

Wow, six teeth blades are mean looking. We used 4 teeth per inch on a dedicated aluminum saw, and when the half mile long (seemed like it anyway) blade broke, I would take sections of it down the our saw guy and have him weld me up some for my portaband. Makes one mean portaband, let me tell you!! I never tried cutting steel with them though.
I have a book called "Fundamentals of Band Machining" that sits on my nightstand for the occasional reading when I can't sleep or the wife wants to watch the idiot box in the bedroom. There are some really neat tricks you can do with a bandsaw, no doubt.
Glad we aren't enemies, Shield Arc!
David from jax

 

[Shield Arc]

Glad we aren't enemies, Shield Arc!

No way! You can't take this Internet seriously! We're all here to learn and pass on what we know to help others.

 

[Soundguy]

i've had the L set in the vice like that and had the vice pressure tip the lower 'leg' up due to the slight round profile of the angle iron towards the vice.. that's why I have used a seperete block before..

ymmv with different saws I guess.

soundguy

 

[jmanatee2]

The blade wants to grab the angle at the top and then pull it upward and out of the grip of the vise.

Do I put the rectangle in the vice like this? (This photo was made from the backside of the saw with the motor being on the left. The other one was made from the front. )

You need to tighten the moving part of the vice. It is to loose on the deck, it should not tilts that much.

 

[sandman2234]

You need to tighten the moving part of the vice. It is to loose on the deck, it should not tilts that much.

I think you will find he already did that at my suggestion, and thanked everyone for their help. I think he has a handle on it now...
David from jax

 

[sandman2234]

i've had the L set in the vice like that and had the vice pressure tip the lower 'leg' up due to the slight round profile of the angle iron towards the vice.. that's why I have used a seperete block before..

ymmv with different saws I guess.

soundguy

If it works for you, then that is what you need. The bad part of trying to armchair quarterback somebodies problems is being able to actually see what is there and how that affects what is being done, which is hard to do sometimes thru their eyes. However, I have noticed over the years that you manage to pull this off on a surprising level of competance. I got lucky and was probably just the first to see the loose movable jaw and mentioned it to become the hero of the minute. Your track record of fixing people's problems has gone on for much longer.
David from jax

 

[Soundguy]

yep.. different equipment.. different problems.. deffinately hard to do over the keyboard..


soundguy

 

[BXpanded]

i've had the L set in the vice like that and had the vice pressure tip the lower 'leg' up due to the slight round profile of the angle iron towards the vice.. that's why I have used a seperete block before..

ymmv with different saws I guess.

soundguy

The block works fine.

Just passing along the procedure from the bandsaw builders. Works for us and we certainly cut a bit.

I can't even guess how that happened with yours. There's no round corner on standard angle iron. When clamped "L", it can't tip toward the motor because the blade is pulling the vertical leg against the stationary side of the vise. To tip a 2" angle in that direction, you have to back the vise off a good 1/2" and twist it over by hand. If you have a saw, go try it.
I have personally ruined a blade cutting angle open side down. The vise wasn't tight enough. Just as it broke through the "V", the workpiece rolled and took a chunk of teeth out of the blade. Had witnesses so pretty embarrassing. Of course, I've managed to ruin a blade just about every way you could imagine.