Pilot
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2004
- Messages
- 1,219
- Location
- Oregon
- Tractor
- JD 770, Yanmar 180D, JD 420 (not running), had a Kubota B6200
Can't tell from the pic how big the trees are. They don't look very big.
I have cut quite a few leaners, but they were Douglas-firs, not hardwoods, so the limbs were smaller than with hardwoods. And no more than about 12" in diameter.
If they aren't over about 10" in diameter, I use a power pruner. That keeps me a good 5 ft. or more from the tree.
For those who say start near the butt, think about how you are going to be standing at that point--leaning pretty low, most likely. Hard to get up and go if you need to get out of there. I usually cut where I can stand.
I use as small a chainsaw as I can and stand off to the side. You can control a small saw easier and standing off to the side, it's less likely a sudden downward force will send it toward your leg of foot.
I have tried putting a notch in the top side, with the idea that it will control which way it will break. Works sometimes.
Usually I end up working my way up the tree. The first cut causes the leaner to swing closer to the supporting tree and the leaner becomes more vertical. Then it gets more difficult and you have a new situation with each cut. The limbs hanging up start to support more weight and may suddenly break.
You can also use a come along and some cable or chain and move the tree around a bit.
I have cut quite a few leaners, but they were Douglas-firs, not hardwoods, so the limbs were smaller than with hardwoods. And no more than about 12" in diameter.
If they aren't over about 10" in diameter, I use a power pruner. That keeps me a good 5 ft. or more from the tree.
For those who say start near the butt, think about how you are going to be standing at that point--leaning pretty low, most likely. Hard to get up and go if you need to get out of there. I usually cut where I can stand.
I use as small a chainsaw as I can and stand off to the side. You can control a small saw easier and standing off to the side, it's less likely a sudden downward force will send it toward your leg of foot.
I have tried putting a notch in the top side, with the idea that it will control which way it will break. Works sometimes.
Usually I end up working my way up the tree. The first cut causes the leaner to swing closer to the supporting tree and the leaner becomes more vertical. Then it gets more difficult and you have a new situation with each cut. The limbs hanging up start to support more weight and may suddenly break.
You can also use a come along and some cable or chain and move the tree around a bit.