cutting down a trailer

[ebeveridge]

Ok so i need/ want a 14 ft tandem axle trailer to mover some toys around as well as some construction materials. Basically for general use. I have a friend who has a 18ft trailer that he will give me it needs a new deck and new lights and a good paint job. It is to long for what i need and another friend who is a union welder said to get it and we would just cut 4ft off between the tongue and wheels. Dose this work or will it mess i up and not haul correctly? is there a ratios from in front of wheels to behind wheels to keep the load centered? we could cut some off back and some out of middle to keep the ratio.
thanks for the opinion.

 

[bcp]

I think I would prefer to cut from the back, then move the axles forward to avoid a splice in the frame.

But, someday, you will probably wish you had a longer trailer.

Bruce

 

[bbt82z]

I would splice the frame and then reinforce the area after welding it back together. I just did the same thing. except to 16'. My trailer had 4" C-Channel where I cut it. I boxed in the channel by putting a 1' piece of 4" x 1/2" flat bar in the middle and then welded a 3" x 6" x 1/2" plate on the back side of the weld. I have a 2000lb welder sitting on top of that area and have zero issues.
"

 

[Diamondpilot]

When and if you do cut it down, which I don't understand but that's on you, you want 60% of the bed before the center of the tandem axles and 40% behind.

To do it right you must cut from the front and rear.

Chris

 

[RoMad]

I would keep the spacing correct as per what Diamond Pilot said above. As for cutting it off the back and front or just the back and moving the axles, I would probably do whichever is easiest of the two. If you cut it off of the front and back you will need to put some doubler plate over the front splice, but that is easy. Some (probably most) axles are really easy to move. Turn the trailer over, cut the welds and just slide them forward, resquare them and reweld. Your friend the welder should know better than to just cut four feet from the front.
What type welder is he? Boilermaker, Pipefitter, Ironworker, ?

 

[ebeveridge]

I will think long and hard about this i hate cutting down something that someone else could use as is. as for my friend he was a iron-worker but now is a welder in a custom fab shop that makes fixtures for machine companies,dirt modified race car frames, and other small run fab work you need it built, they will build it.
thank you for the help i wanted to see if it was even possible just not sure if i want to commit.

 

[bcp]

When and if you do cut it down, which I don't understand but that's on you, you want 60% of the bed before the center of the tandem axles and 40% behind.

To do it right you must cut from the front and rear.

Chris

That would be 8.4 feet in front of the center hanger and 5.6 feet behind.

The 40-60 weight division assumes an evenly spread load, but is probably best as a standard. I always thought it would be nice to have sliding axles on a smaller trailer. Load it where the equipment fits best, then move the axle(s) for best weight distribution. It looks like lots of tandem boat trailers are that way, with axles mounted on a frame that is U-bolted to the trailer frame.

Cutting from front and rear, then remounting the tongue would avoid a splice.

I think a splice would make a stiff spot in a frame that flexes a bit with a load and road conditions. It may be OK in most cases, but I would rather not.

Bruce

 

[Diamondpilot]

I will think long and hard about this i hate cutting down something that someone else could use as is. as for my friend he was a iron-worker but now is a welder in a custom fab shop that makes fixtures for machine companies,dirt modified race car frames, and other small run fab work you need it built, they will build it. thank you for the help i wanted to see if it was even possible just not sure if i want to commit.

I think you will regret cutting down a 18' trailer. That's just a handy size. I could not live without my 18' trailer. 14' might work for your particular task but is otherwise about worthless. Can't haul a car, tractor with a FEL, ect. Think long and hard.

Chris

 

[bcp]

Here is a photo of a BX with backhoe in a 14.5 trailer. Not much room for an implement instead of a backhoe.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...8-kubota-bx-25-a-post3076020.html#post3076020

Bruce

 

[redprospector]

Take the 18' trailer your friend wants to give you, and take the old floor out, put a good paint job on it, replace or repair the lights and wiring that need it, and put a new floor in it.
Now you have the option of selling the 18' trailer to finance a 14' trailer. Or you could just keep the 18' trailer for yourself. You will have an intimate knowledge of what the 18'er is by this time. At that point, there is no wrong answer, just whatever you want to do.

 

[cockeyedMFer]

May I suggest fixing the free trailer, selling and putting the money towards getting the one you want?

On the other hand, I've never gone somewhere to get a load and thought "gee, I wish this trailer was smaller"

 

[msmith1wa]

If you were not on the other side of the country we might have been able to work out a trade for my 14' trailer.

 

[scaredychicken]

how far is Pennsylvania from British Columbia ? oh, okay that doesn't work.

I'm not a welder, nor do I have easy access to a person who can weld. I don't think that it is worthwhile cutting down, and I agree with bcp that you will likely want a longer trailer in the future. modifying a trailer in such a significant manner would likely mess with the registration details, the capacity / axle ratings, change the status to a u-bilt, and reduce the value of the trailer generally.

"I've never gone somewhere to get a load and thought "gee, I wish this trailer was smaller" " - hilariously accurate

 

[Sodo]

I've never gone somewhere to get a load and thought "gee, I wish this trailer was smaller"

That's what you think when you don't have enough room to turn around, get all bound up and have to unhook it.

 

[Xfaxman]

I will think long and hard about this i hate cutting down something that someone else could use as is. as for my friend he was a iron-worker but now is a welder in a custom fab shop that makes fixtures for machine companies,dirt modified race car frames, and other small run fab work you need it built, they will build it.
thank you for the help i wanted to see if it was even possible just not sure if i want to commit.

If you commit, you should be commited! :laughing:

I think it would be better to fix it up and try it for awhile. If you don't like it, trade it in on a 14 footer.

modifying a trailer in such a significant manner would likely mess with the registration details, the capacity / axle ratings, change the status to a u-bilt, and reduce the value of the trailer generally.----[/B]

I agree :thumbsup:

ebeveridge, have you checked to see how to register a cut down trailer?

I started with a 16' bumper pull many years ago, now I have a 22' gooseneck.

 

[dieselcrawler]

I have a 20' deck-over bumper pull that I pull just fine with my ext cab shortbed truck, turn around most anywhere I need to, and often wish it was longer. 24' gooseneck would be nice...

I agree... use it as an 18'er first... 4' of deck loss, keeping axles in the proper position, will only shorten the trailer wheel base by 40% of the 4', which isn't going to effect trailer 'turnability' very much at all... its the distance from hitch to wheels not deck lenth that makes turning/backing easier/harder. A longer trailer is easier to back up...

 

[mikegt4]

It is to (too) long for what i need .........

No it isn't, you just don't realize it yet.

Keep it at 18', use it or sell it.

 

[schmism]

Here is a photo of a BX with backhoe in a 14.5 trailer. Not much room for an implement instead of a backhoe.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...8-kubota-bx-25-a-post3076020.html#post3076020

Bruce

for anyone not familiur with the BX series. (and the tractor in the pic)

if you remove the loader and backhoe from that "tractor" above your left with something that is the same size as a large rideing lawnmower.

I would consider 16' to be a min lenght for a dual axle. most 14' around here are single axle or purpose built (aka 12K skidsteer mover )

Keep the 18', if you HAD to have a 14' sell the 18 and buy a 14 and dont spend the time and effort playing junkyard wars with it.

 

[deepNdirt]

I started out with buying a 18ft car hauler, worked out good for the while I was " Hauling cars " I give up restoring old cars and decided I didn't need such size trailer, I owned a compact tractor which looked more like a riding mower sitting on such a large trailer, I started horse trading around, got a 5x12 which was perfect for the tractor but not enough room to add any implements, I extend the trailer 2 ft. by adding a dove-tail which allowed to carry a brush cutter, I used it for a couple years, But yet still needed to carry an extra implement or 2 along at times, so I traded for a 6.5 x16 ft. that I have now. Perfect size for my tractor or if ever I need to carry a car on it, ( I have done )
so I guess what I'm suggesting is maybe you could shorten it down to a 16ft. without having do anything but cutting 2 ft. from the rear, it might be a bit heavier on the tongue but at least not having to cut the tongue and or relocate axles, etc,etc, In fact a friend of mine purchased a trailer that already had been cut off from the rear, not sure but might have been an 18 ft. or 16ft. the person never finish putting it back together, so my friend scored a deal and brought it to me to weld ramp bar and ramps onto it, taillights , new oak deck boards etc,etc, the trailer finished out at just under 15ft, but still would carry a full car and or his tractor, and seem to be well balanced with the heavy ramps added to the rear,

 

[LD1]

Can you elaborate on how it is "too long". Only being 4' longer don't do much for the way it tows, maneuvers, or what it weighs. So why is 18' too long?