Cutting Trees at an Angle

   / Cutting Trees at an Angle #1  

TJP89

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2014
Messages
1,042
Location
MI
Tractor
Kioti CK35 HST TL, Gravely ZTHD
Well it's the season for wood cutting, and I'm planning to try to take most of my firewood off my own property this year. The problem I have is that there are a bunch of nice down trees that are leaning against another tree, or hung up somehow so they slant off the ground. Some of them are low enough so I can just cut, let them fall and cut again, but most are too steep/high for that to work. I not going to take down live standing trees, there's plenty of down wood, so I'm looking for suggestions on how to handle the slanted ones. I only idea I've come up with is to pull the base out with the tractor and chain, even then there are some spots I just can't get to with the tractor. Climbing trees with a chainsaw is not something I do, not that it would help here anyway. Anyone have a method for dealing with such troublesome trees?
 
   / Cutting Trees at an Angle #2  
there are a bunch of nice down trees that are leaning against another tree, or hung up somehow so they slant off the ground.

BE VERY CAREFUL! I've spent a lot of time timbering, and these can be some of the most dangerous trees to deal with. Even experienced folks get killed or maimed every year doing this.

But that doesn't mean you can't - or shouldn't - do it. Just be careful and think it through before you start work.

You didn't say how big they are, but if they're anything bigger than a sapling, then my advice is to get them all the way onto the ground first before you pull out a saw or make any cuts. When I'm dealing with leaning blow-downs, I will hook up a series of blocks so that I'm pulling from a very safe difference. Using blocks also helps to move some of the ones you can't get close to with the tractor. There can be a LOT -- let me say that again... A LOT -- of unreleased pressure in a leaning tree, both stored in the down tree as well as in the tree it's leaning against. It's not uncommon to have them "jump" a good distance when that stored energy is released. I usually use steel cable (or my synthetic winch cable if it's long enough) and rig the blocks so that I'm pulling at a 90 degree angle with the tractor (hooked low at the drawbar.) Also make sure that you are clear enough so that if the tree rolls or slides, you don't get pulled into something or pulled sideways. I NEVER pull a direct line on the tree -- always use at least 1 block if not 2 to make sure the forces are directed properly.

I'm not OSHA -- just have seen how dangerous some of these "leaners" can be first hand, and learned my lessons on the broken arms and crushed legs of a few friends. The amount of stored-up energy in these trees is not something to play around with.

But that being said, I never give up on good firewood! You just gotta make sure you think through the potential of "what if this thing jumps" and have a plan.
 
   / Cutting Trees at an Angle #3  
From a Penn State report (Tractors in the Woods)

Pennsylvania farm fatality reports from recent years have identified numerous fatalities involving tractors that were being used for pulling down trees and limbs, pulling tree stumps, dragging logs, clearing saplings and brush from fence rows, or for collecting and hauling firewood. Over 50% of these incidents involved tractor upsets while dragging trees, logs, tree tops, or brush. Nearly forty percent of the incidents involved falling trees due to lodged trees or falling limbs (widow makers) from overhead. The remaining fatalities involved chain saw kick-back.
 
   / Cutting Trees at an Angle #4  
When I have trees hung up that I can't get at with the tractor I hang a few red flags around where I'll see them to remind me to stay clear until wind and nature take their coarse and they fall on their own. The ones I can get at I wrap a chain around so when I pull on them they will roll away from the the tree their hung up in then fall. Some times I can get at them to push sideways if you do this make sure your bucket is tipped so when the tree falls it won't hang up on the bucket and tip your machine. Do this with short butts don't push and load up the tree like a spring or it could come back and knock you silly or worse.
 
   / Cutting Trees at an Angle #5  
Agree with what's been said. I take down a lot of leaners and hung up trees after hurricanes, and every one takes a careful analysis to manage properly. Many should be handled with machinery rather than a saw, some use a little of both. Not possible to give a blanket answer.

If you can pull the top or base out, good, but also be aware of what might happen as the top dislodges from other trees. Throwback (catapulting of stuff at the top) can be as dangerous, if not more so. It can travel a long distance.

In the past, people have posted pics of a challenging tree here, and there is some good discussion and tricks shared.
 
   / Cutting Trees at an Angle #6  
Look into cable and snatch blocks. They may allow you to pull in places the chain and tractor can not reach.
In some cases maybe a come along will work.

It might all be dependent on the tree size and tractor size.
 
   / Cutting Trees at an Angle #7  
There are 2 kinds of hung-up trees

1. ones that are no longer connected to the stump. Either you cut and it hung up falling, or wind snapped it off and it hung up.
2. Ones that are still partially connected to the stump.

You didnt specify what type you have.

If they are no longer connected to the ground, chaining around the butt end and dragging until it falls clear is easy and not very dangerous to do.

If they are still connected, it gets a bit trickier. Simply chaining and trying to break it free of the stump isnt easy. And can sometimes stand the tree back up and make it fall on top of you (if you have the traction). The higher you chain from the "partial" break, the easier this can happen. In a case like this, without large equipment, some cutting to free it from the stump may be required. But every tree is different. Just depends on where the stresses are and how its leaning. Sometimes requires undercut, sometimes top cut, sometimes from the sides. Sometimes the butt end is loaded in a way that it just wants to fall off the stump nicely and land on the ground (then you can pull it down). Othertimes, it may want to spring up at you or barberchair.
 
   / Cutting Trees at an Angle
  • Thread Starter
#8  
There are 2 kinds of hung-up trees

1. ones that are no longer connected to the stump. Either you cut and it hung up falling, or wind snapped it off and it hung up.
2. Ones that are still partially connected to the stump.

You didnt specify what type you have.

If they are no longer connected to the ground, chaining around the butt end and dragging until it falls clear is easy and not very dangerous to do.

If they are still connected, it gets a bit trickier. Simply chaining and trying to break it free of the stump isnt easy. And can sometimes stand the tree back up and make it fall on top of you (if you have the traction). The higher you chain from the "partial" break, the easier this can happen. In a case like this, without large equipment, some cutting to free it from the stump may be required. But every tree is different. Just depends on where the stresses are and how its leaning. Sometimes requires undercut, sometimes top cut, sometimes from the sides. Sometimes the butt end is loaded in a way that it just wants to fall off the stump nicely and land on the ground (then you can pull it down). Othertimes, it may want to spring up at you or barberchair.

The thickest trees I'll be cutting are about 18" dia. Some are still attached at the stump, others are free. I'm always very careful with my chainsaw and always look at the situation. It seems I need to look at the tree from all angles and then decide how to get it down. Someone pointed out to have the entire tree down before I cut, that makes sense, but I think some cutting may be inevitable. I have experienced first hand what a tree can do when strain is released, which is why I'm being real careful. I'll be working on this over the weekend, but keep the advice coming:thumbsup:

And if you don't hear from me again you know what happen:laughing: (I know, no joking matter)
 
   / Cutting Trees at an Angle #9  
Good luck, Tony! Just use your head and don't start ramdomly sawing, and you'll be fine...

...but make sure to post in the Good Morning tread on Monday so we know you're still around. :thumbsup:
 
   / Cutting Trees at an Angle #10  
Cut live trees that are in the clear and save yourself and family the possible agony of a disaster. As mentioned, the trees you want to cut are probably the most dangerous around. That's why a lot of people call them "widowmakers". There is increased probability of bugs in dead trees as well. Cut the healthy trees near the edge, improve your stand of trees, have good firewood and it also opens up the edges for more critters to live. Animals live on the edges of the woods where the undergrowth affords them food and shelter.

The trees to cut are the crooked ones. Straight trees make good sawlogs.
 

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