d 1850fd charging

[oliver28472]

Hey, that looks fairly permanent to me. Good job and thanks for sharing.

 

[mit]

just got back the alt i sent out for rebuilding at New and Rebuilt Tractor Water Pumps - A&T Part Rebuilders. it looks like new.cost 125 plus shipping.i dont if i will put it on in a hurry.thanks to all u guys.

 

[BTDT]

the adjustment on the alternator is maxed out.

Now all you need is a smaller belt, that will give you some of your adjustment back. Good job.

 

[mit]

ever since i did this the tractor did not see a charger. i was able to start it every time. the battery feels very strong. toyed around with it bit today no complains.

 

[mit]

did you guys knew that the amps on the original d1850 alternator is just 12 amps. that is just enough to run the lights and charge the battery.i always thought that tractors have powerful alternators.you may have to change this alternator if you want to put on a electric winch or flood lights.the ford courier alt i think was 35 amps.i wonder why was it necessary to put on such lo amp alt on these tractors.

 

[Ally]

hi MIT, if you're still using this forum would you be kind enough to post a piccy of your D1850FD (and anyone else for that matter)? The sticker on my tractor says D1850FD but there's a lot of dodgy going on's with the lack of plates and numbers on the tractor and with the ?!*@ who sold it to me.

 

[mit]

will try .see if these help

 

[Ally]

thanks for those photos yes the dash looks the same and from what i can tell looking thru the FEL the front looks somewhat the same. yours has a lovely flash plate covering the hyd pump and pipes. did you change your pump when you added the FEL? mine has a factory FEL but i find that when i lift and try to tip at the same time, the FEL will fall as it concentrates on tipping. Once the bucket is tipped, the arms will lift again.
i've enjoyed reading your posts as they've helped me understand my tractor a bit more (as i have not got a manual though not through the lack of trying!). i noticed you've had a bit of trouble with your 3pt linkage and control valve too. mine stopped pretty much the same way yours did. i've now got mine lifting with more ease than before but unlike before, now they won't hold pressure. any thoughts?
now for a really dumb question...what's a relief valve and what's it for? (like you, this is my first tractor too).
sorry to bombard you with all this but it's such a relief to find someone with the same tractor and who's worked on it so knows a bit about it.

 

[mit]

a relief valve is a device that prevents the pressure to exceed a safe value preventing seals and other critical parts to fail. one such valve should be near your gear shift it looks like a somewhat triangular part with 3 bolts holding it down.my fel works fine with the original hydralic pump that the tractor came with. however you cant use two controls at the same time.i always use one lever at a time.if you go to Valley Power and click on parts you will find the hydralic circuit that may help you with the 3 point.

 

[Ally]

hi mit. thanks for your help. i managed to fudge my way through though. after replacing the hydraulic case cover, i then replaced the o-rings in the flow control valve and fine tuned the settings til i was able to get the rears to lift under weight and lock into place when i closed the valve. things aren't perfect but at least i was able to connect up the rotary hoe (tilller?) and get my firebreaks done before the due date tomorrow