Darn wall isn't "flat", rip out? other ideas?

[Richard]

Re: Darn wall isn\'t \"flat\", rip out? other ideas?

In general, the left side of each brace is nailed and the right side is screwed in. The wall doesn't move too much right now because it's built like a tank. It might be easier to do by removing the cross braces.

What I'm thinking right now is a mixture of the above (at least I think it's a mixture)

1. Remove all the screws from braces. If need be, go ahead & yank the braces OUT but wait for that decision

2. See if I can push the board back some & perhaps try to anchor it back

3. As I fundamentally think the stress from anchoring it back will add other stress in other places, my expectation is, the kerf slice (verses cutting a wedge) might be a good idea to help relieve some of that pressure.

4. If the kerf cut & anchoring helps draw it back, then I'll scab a support board onto the side to strenghten it

5. If it's still quirky after that, I'll investigate yanking the whole board out and (sigh) redoing that section.

If I'm ever given a choice of doing something "right" (or overkill as my wife might accuse) or "just enough" (or "cheap" as I might respond back to my wife), I'll near always take the harder road and do it right. (as I define it to be)

 

[EddieWalker]

Re: Darn wall isn\'t \"flat\", rip out? other ideas?

OK Richard,

For me, time is also a big factor in what I do. If you really want to do it right, spend the five dollars and buy a new 2x4 and replace the one that's bothering you. It will take you all of ten minuted to take out the old one and 15 to put in a new one.

Eddie

 

[MarkV]

Re: Darn wall isn\'t \"flat\", rip out? other ideas?

Richard, no disrespect intended here but I believe you are over thinking this little problem. The problem is caused by the pressure treated wood; it is notorious for moving because it is so wet and goes every which way as it dries. If your schedule will allow give the frame a little time to settle before the tile people come in.

For the bowed stud just cut that thing and scab on to one side of it after you pull it back to where you want. Your shelf unit is going to be covered with some type of backer board and that backer board will not care if there is a gap on the cut stud. You will have a 16” gap between each vertical stud and the backer board works fine with that type of span. It will not care about an inch gap at all.

Believe me you have plenty of beef in your frame to handle the tile job! The blocking for grab bars was a good idea. Did you put a little slop on your shelve bottom so that water will run out rather than collect in it. That is standard practice when we build something similar.

Good luck,
MarkV

 

[KubotaSteve]

Re: Darn wall isn\'t \"flat\", rip out? other ideas?

That was the very reason I only used treated on the floor and stepped my walls out an inch or so from the block wall.
It seems as if it is bothering you, so go ahead and switch out the 2X4 or else you'll keep saying "I should have switched that one out.
Good luck.

 

[bota7800]

Re: Darn wall isn\'t \"flat\", rip out? other ideas?

I was thinking about my previous post and I remembered (it has been 30 years /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif) that on really bad studs we would do 2 cuts, one about 1/3 up the other about 2/3 up. You will get a lot better movement that way.

I like the concrete anchor idea. If you do a combination of the cuts I described and the anchor you should have good control.

Oh, and please report back, I am sure a lot of us want to know what you did and how it worked.

 

[Richard]

Re: Darn wall isn\'t \"flat\", rip out? other ideas?

Here's what I did, first I uninstalled all the braces & shelf. I then cut the offending stud above where the shelf line is (I preferred cutting it in the middle of the stud but SWMBO has to have a shelf)

 

[Richard]

Re: Darn wall isn\'t \"flat\", rip out? other ideas?

Lined up some 3/4" plywood braces

 

[Richard]

Re: Darn wall isn\'t \"flat\", rip out? other ideas?

slapped some glue on them...

Interesting note: I didn't think I'd need a LOT of glue so went to by a squeezable tube for about $2.50. Checked the regular isle for the caulk tubes and bought a caulk tube of liquid nails with about TWICE the volume for about $1.80! Probably first time in my life I've been a "shopper". My wife would be proud!
/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Richard]

Re: Darn wall isn\'t \"flat\", rip out? other ideas?

Wife asked if I used enough bolts (1/2")

 

[Richard]

Re: Darn wall isn\'t \"flat\", rip out? other ideas?

Of course, I said NO /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif