rjmack
Platinum Member
that is 1/4x2x2 angle welded to 1/2x3x3 angle welded to 3x3x.188 hss.
welded fairly hot.
how about some pictures of the welds you are having trouble cleaning?
DC amps vs AC amps
- Thread starter JB4310
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that is 1/4x2x2 angle welded to 1/2x3x3 angle welded to 3x3x.188 hss.
welded fairly hot.
how about some pictures of the welds you are having trouble cleaning?
OP
JB4310
Super Member
Well today it was totally different, turned the amps down a little, and the slag was almost coming off by itself. I was custom making square tubing to the size I wanted. Ripped some 4x4 length wise and spliced 2 pcs together to get 4x5.5" for storage boxes on my QH.
Took some pictures, not very flattering I know, but I knew I had to grind it flush, the finished product came out ok. when I was welding the box to the QH, both members corners are rounded, so the weld is down in a little bit of a hole. With those welds, the slag would not release again. didn't get any close up pics though, but you can see what I'm talking about in the finished product pic.
JB.
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Brad_Blazer
Veteran Member
My pic was 5/32 7018AC. It's all they had at National Welders. I don't remember the amps but it was on the high side using a DC inverter.
Your project turned out nice. It looks like you are over-manipulating the rod. Try just dragging the flux against the workpiece very slowly in a straight line, almost letting it lay there and welding at the rate it is consumed. With 7018 the puddle will spread by itself. If you leave cavities or porosity the slag might stick hard. With 7018 I get cavities if I go too fast, too cold, too much weaving. Porosity if I stick it and the flux flakes off. Too hot, too slow it might look like this.
Your project turned out nice. It looks like you are over-manipulating the rod. Try just dragging the flux against the workpiece very slowly in a straight line, almost letting it lay there and welding at the rate it is consumed. With 7018 the puddle will spread by itself. If you leave cavities or porosity the slag might stick hard. With 7018 I get cavities if I go too fast, too cold, too much weaving. Porosity if I stick it and the flux flakes off. Too hot, too slow it might look like this.
rjmack
Platinum Member
that's a common occurrence in that sort of joint, especially if you have undercut along one or both sides. i wouldn't worry about it falling off though.
every welder has their own ideas. some overlap, some don't. we generally seem to get the job done though.
one observation i have made over the years is that people will let the puddle chase them around (literally). experienced welders understand that it is vitally important to take immediate control of the puddle. inconsistent beads are often a sign that the puddle is chasing the welder... the welder doesn't understand how to control the puddle, so he/she runs away from it.
there is at least one demon that every welder has to face.
OP
JB4310
Super Member
Thanks,
I have to remember that, I know I heard 7018 was a drag rod but yeah I guess i'm not practicing that.
that's a common occurrence in that sort of joint, especially if you have undercut along one or both sides. i wouldn't worry about it falling off though.
every welder has their own ideas. some overlap, some don't. we generally seem to get the job done though.
one observation i have made over the years is that people will let the puddle chase them around (literally). experienced welders understand that it is vitally important to take immediate control of the puddle. inconsistent beads are often a sign that the puddle is chasing the welder... the welder doesn't understand how to control the puddle, so he/she runs away from it.
there is at least one demon that every welder has to face.
That one problem I have, I can't always see the puddle that well. I hear everyone talking about watching the puddle. Maybe the way I'm holding the rod, which is all over the place, or maybe my shield is to dark. I have an auto dark helmet now, I think it's set to mid settings.
Another problem I have is so basic, I have trouble holding steady, especially on longer welds, some times I catch myself holding my breath, not holding the rod close enough etc etc.
Then sometimes a demon takes over me and I get a weld that surprises me :laughing:
Pics of some decent looking beads on 1" and 1/2" thick snowplow parts and 3/4" 3pt lift arms. Don't remember what rod was used, but often if I could use 7024 I would. lately 7018 has been the rod of choice, if I can get better with it, it would probably be all I would ever need.
JB.
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Shield Arc
Super Member
flusher
Super Member
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I weld two-handed--that really helps controlling the rod.
I use a Hobart Stickmate AC/DC welder. DC+ for 1/8" 7018 rod. Set the amps according to material thickness. Tap the rod on the side of my weld table to remove the flux on the tip of a new rod. Then start the bead. Drag the rod SLOWLY and watch the edges of the puddle to be sure you're getting good tie-in. The flux pops off with light taps from the hammer.
rjmack
Platinum Member
i don't know what your vision is like, but maybe try a set of reading glasses, or a cheater lense in your hood. if you can't see, you can't weld.
OP
JB4310
Super Member
I use to weld one handed, but after seeing pictures of welders in the catalogs, all using both hands, I realised if they use 2 hands I should too, definitely helps.
i don't know what your vision is like, but maybe try a set of reading glasses, or a cheater lense in your hood. if you can't see, you can't weld.
I do wear glasses, but I can see good enough, it's more like I can't see through the arc, probably has to do with the way I hold the stick.
Just now thinking about it, Probably also has to do with my AC upbringing and the shower of sparks/spatter, kinda like spray and pray. Never really trained myself to focus on the weld puddle.
JB
