Deal or no deal--farmpro

   / Deal or no deal--farmpro
  • Thread Starter
#21  
Biggest issue and quickest way to ruin the pump on a Jinma is the QC's. Get rid of them. I took mine out and put in two 1/2" swivel fittings in place of them.

They do not fit well and they just cause issues.

Chris


To make sure I understand, does that mean you leave the loader on all the time?
 
   / Deal or no deal--farmpro #22  
On my 204 as well as a lot of other Chinese machines if you do not have the QC's either coupled together or coupled to the valve the pump will deadhead. There is no pressure relief other than the loader valve.
To prevent mine acidentally coming apart I pump a hose clamp on the back side of the sleeve to prevent it being pulled back accidentally.....Mike
 
   / Deal or no deal--farmpro #23  
The Jinma hydraulics do not have a relief valve3 on the the pump - the loader control valve is the only relief valve, so if you remove the loader you MUST connect the two hoses together at the pump so it can circulate fluid and not deadhead. Unfortunately, as Chris said, the Chinese QC's aren't worth beans and do fail, ruining pumps. When the pump fails, it fails in one of two ways; it either splits the case, or it blows the front seal and dumps hydraulic fluid into the crankcase. The seal is replaceable, the case is not. Tommy at Affordable Tractor Sales has the parts and pumps.

If you anticipate taking the loader on and off a lot, I'd suggest replacing the Chinese QCs with better ones - Tommy carries them, as does Ronald at RanchHand Supply. Until you replace them, use tie wraps or hose clamps to lock the sliding sleeves in position.

The Jinma loader/hydraulic system is a very basic open-center system. Pump to loader, return to the lift box/sump. The Chinese loader control valve does not have PB capability - you have to go aftermarket for that feature. RanchHand Supply sells a complete kit to upgrade to a valve with float, regen and PB capability, including the necessary hoses to adapt it to the Chinese ORFS fittings. I have on eon my 304 Jinma and love it.

You can help the backhoe swing control by putting a flow control washer in the supply lines to the swing cylinders. I can't remember the orifice size for sure, but I think some guys have just used a 1/16" hole in a copper penny to handle the issue - makes the swing much better behaved, reportedly.

I took my loader off one time and that was enough to convince me just to leave it on all the time. Without a gantry crane to handle it, it makes me nervous on those feeble little props they provide.
 
   / Deal or no deal--farmpro #24  
I added an adjustable Prince relief valve right after the pump outlet. The relief port returns to sump.
 
   / Deal or no deal--farmpro #25  
I think only Howie Mandell can answer the question, deal or no deal
 
   / Deal or no deal--farmpro #26  
there must be a relief (though all systems should have a relief) and I have to make sure I find it and know it is not now stuck open or closed .
Congrats on the purchase. The steering pump has an internal relief valve. The main loop has no relief valve per se. But since the loader works off the main loop, the controller adds a relief valve to the circuit during those periods when the loader is installed. Not sure what you're askin' relative to power beyond though.

Pretty sure the QD comment relates to the 200 Series. There's a QD on a short pigtail that comes off the main pump. Can't remember if that applies to the 300 series or not

//greg//
 
   / Deal or no deal--farmpro #28  
EE_Bota, good for you, keep us updated as to what you find. :thumbsup:
 
   / Deal or no deal--farmpro
  • Thread Starter
#29  
On my 204 as well as a lot of other Chinese machines if you do not have the QC's either coupled together or coupled to the valve the pump will deadhead. There is no pressure relief other than the loader valve.
To prevent mine acidentally coming apart I pump a hose clamp on the back side of the sleeve to prevent it being pulled back accidentally.....Mike

I think that is exactly what happened to this one, but I am not completely sure. He had a helper...so he doesn't know for sure exactly what all went on.


The Jinma hydraulics do not have a relief valve3 on the the pump - the loader control valve is the only relief valve, so if you remove the loader you MUST connect the two hoses together at the pump so it can circulate fluid and not deadhead. Unfortunately, as Chris said, the Chinese QC's aren't worth beans and do fail, ruining pumps. When the pump fails, it fails in one of two ways; it either splits the case, or it blows the front seal and dumps hydraulic fluid into the crankcase. The seal is replaceable, the case is not. Tommy at Affordable Tractor Sales has the parts and pumps.

If you anticipate taking the loader on and off a lot, I'd suggest replacing the Chinese QCs with better ones - Tommy carries them, as does Ronald at RanchHand Supply. Until you replace them, use tie wraps or hose clamps to lock the sliding sleeves in position.

The Jinma loader/hydraulic system is a very basic open-center system. Pump to loader, return to the lift box/sump. The Chinese loader control valve does not have PB capability - you have to go aftermarket for that feature. RanchHand Supply sells a complete kit to upgrade to a valve with float, regen and PB capability, including the necessary hoses to adapt it to the Chinese ORFS fittings. I have on eon my 304 Jinma and love it.

You can help the backhoe swing control by putting a flow control washer in the supply lines to the swing cylinders. I can't remember the orifice size for sure, but I think some guys have just used a 1/16" hole in a copper penny to handle the issue - makes the swing much better behaved, reportedly.

I took my loader off one time and that was enough to convince me just to leave it on all the time. Without a gantry crane to handle it, it makes me nervous on those feeble little props they provide.

I read some threads here and elsewhere that suggest there is a relief in the lift housing, but I may actually be reading about a different tractor. Mine is the Farmpro 2430, so I read about various Jinma's, but can't tell for sure which is similar. I have guessed mine may be closest to your 304 overall, but I'm not sure. Anyone know?

I added an adjustable Prince relief valve right after the pump outlet. The relief port returns to sump.

I like this idea a lot. I'll search for threads, and see if I find a writeup. I started scouting places to mount a relief (location to mount ...smart piping runs, etc.) on day 2, since I felt the disconnect was a danger. I have a good deal to figure out..such as are the threads on hoses metric, what sort of disconnect is on them. I just got it unloaded last night before dark..so I put my best charger on it to see if the battery can be recovered (I doubt it). I can spend money on the tractor, I just want to ease into that part..starting with hydraulics first...then get some usage. I would like the have it right in every way by mid summer.

Congrats on the purchase. The steering pump has an internal relief valve. The main loop has no relief valve per se. But since the loader works off the main loop, the controller adds a relief valve to the circuit during those periods when the loader is installed. Not sure what you're askin' relative to power beyond though.

Pretty sure the QD comment relates to the 200 Series. There's a QD on a short pigtail that comes off the main pump. Can't remember if that applies to the 300 series or not

//greg//

I saw the relief on the steering pump and I thought...hmmm...that would be cool for the other pump..would have solved a few problems. :) If the pumps were identical, I would just see if I could just add that relief plate.


General thoughts after reading all of the above...
Looking at the loader mounting I think it is one that should mostly be left on the tractor. I may take it off sometime for better access to the engine. The backhoe, that there is a better target for removal, but I'd like to "fill" the tires before that is ever removed.

If anyone knows of a thread about adding a relief just past the pump itself, or what relief you chose, that would be great. I do think that is the best option.

It seems to me that a system with a relief only in the loader, but with only two lines to the loader, that would make it so it only relieves the loader, so the system can be dead headed at the lift. That may not be that likely, but I still like the relief AT the pump idea.

Does the improved loader valve kit from Ranch Hand supply:

a) have a true "tank" line so what would ordinarily be flow to "tank" actually goes to tank, and is not used for powering the lift?

b)power beyond port from loader powers the lift?

c)loader relief relieves to tank, such that it will protect the pump still, even if lift gets dead-headed?

I'm sure if I can give him a call, and he would tell me all of that..but I do want a better loader valve, (and digger valve too.) Otherwise, I will use the penny idea, or similar.

First things first...I'll get her all greased up, and do whatever it will take to get the loader moving.

Thanks guys!
The engine sounds great...my buddy only got to hear it run for the first time yesterday while helping me haul, and he grinned ear to ear.:D
 
   / Deal or no deal--farmpro #30  
I saw the relief on the steering pump and I thought...hmmm...that would be cool for the other pump..would have solved a few problems. :) If the pumps were identical, I would just see if I could just add that relief plate.:D
Pumps only share a common housing type. Internals are different. Steering pump should be a CBN-E306, the last two digits representing the capacity; 6ml/revolution. Main pump may be a 312 or 314. And quite truthfully, the bypass valve in the steering pump was a major PITA on one of mine. Hot fluid would effect the PRV to the point where the steering eventually locked up. When it reached that point I had to let it cool down for 1/2 hour or so before I could steer again. Fortunately this only happened during the ambient heat of July and August, so I just lived with it.

I should qualify my statement about there being no pressure relief on the main loop. Pretty sure there's a bypass valve in the 300 series sump that could be considered sort of a pressure relief. If I understand correctly, it doesn't really come into play unless/until the lift cylinder hits its mechanical stop.

//greg//
 

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