Decapitate my PT (ROPS)?
- Thread starter Spiffy
- Start date
- Views: 5114
BillCroasmun
Gold Member
NJBill, Thanks for the kind words but logical thinking isn't always a good thing... just ask my wife. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif Although I think she's got her own brand of logic. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Spiffy,
Not sure if your still looking for brainstorming ideas but if I'm picturing this correctly it shouldn't be too much work at all to deal with the support issues.
If that 4x6 above the door frame is load bearing could you just put two 7' vetical 4x6's on both sides of the garage doors going from the ground to the underside of this current support (to act as jack posts). Then directly above those put in two 12" vertical 4x6's then lay a horizontal support beam across the top of those. I'd probably add in some diagonal bracing too just because. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Build these permanent supports then start your cutting.
Raising the whole door after redoing the supports would probably be more expensive since you'll have to add a new door section and extend your door tracks (or just buy a new door) but should be quicker/easier.
Installing the hinged door extension above would probably be cheaper but more time consuming.
Either way shouldn't be too bad though...
Spiffy,
Not sure if your still looking for brainstorming ideas but if I'm picturing this correctly it shouldn't be too much work at all to deal with the support issues.
If that 4x6 above the door frame is load bearing could you just put two 7' vetical 4x6's on both sides of the garage doors going from the ground to the underside of this current support (to act as jack posts). Then directly above those put in two 12" vertical 4x6's then lay a horizontal support beam across the top of those. I'd probably add in some diagonal bracing too just because. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Build these permanent supports then start your cutting.
Raising the whole door after redoing the supports would probably be more expensive since you'll have to add a new door section and extend your door tracks (or just buy a new door) but should be quicker/easier.
Installing the hinged door extension above would probably be cheaper but more time consuming.
Either way shouldn't be too bad though...
OP
Spiffy
Veteran Member
Hi Bill!
I won't be doing anything to the garage until spring, but am sure planning to follow the thread as long as it's alive, then bookmark it for later.
Never know when an idea might help someone else too for that matter. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
When I get a few minutes, I should make a sketch of what it looked like before I added the walls; my descriptions are sometimes pretty vague - even spite of my verbosity. It looks like you have it pretty well imagined though.
I won't be doing anything to the garage until spring, but am sure planning to follow the thread as long as it's alive, then bookmark it for later.
Never know when an idea might help someone else too for that matter. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
When I get a few minutes, I should make a sketch of what it looked like before I added the walls; my descriptions are sometimes pretty vague - even spite of my verbosity. It looks like you have it pretty well imagined though.
OP
Spiffy
Veteran Member
Been garaged since November, but finally getting the pictures of it [was out pushing snow and thought I better grab the camera before I even finished brushing off the snow].
Even beyond clearing the garage, I'm very pleased with the way it feels without the canopy. It clears trees nicer and it feels much less top heavy [of course, just the optical illusion of being 2ft shorter]. At the risk of alerting the safty police, I may even leave it off. Although a great compromise would be a slightly shorter ROPs without a canopy [so I don't wack my head with it being lower]; then I have somewhere nice to mount lights again! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Even beyond clearing the garage, I'm very pleased with the way it feels without the canopy. It clears trees nicer and it feels much less top heavy [of course, just the optical illusion of being 2ft shorter]. At the risk of alerting the safty police, I may even leave it off. Although a great compromise would be a slightly shorter ROPs without a canopy [so I don't wack my head with it being lower]; then I have somewhere nice to mount lights again! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Attachments
BillCroasmun
Gold Member
Shorter ROPS is a great idea... Something I always wondered about the rear seated PTs like your 2445, how hot is it sitting over the engine compartment? In winter it sure can't hurt! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif There probably has been threads on this before but knowing I wouldn't go that route I probably skimmed by that question.
OP
Spiffy
Veteran Member
<font color="blue">Something I always wondered about the rear seated PTs like your 2445, how hot is it sitting over the engine compartment? </font>
Doesn't seem to have much discomfort in the summer or advantage in the winter. But could just be that I have really ignorant rump. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Doesn't seem to have much discomfort in the summer or advantage in the winter. But could just be that I have really ignorant rump. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
BillCroasmun
Gold Member
I guess that shouldn't be too surprising... I'm sure PT wouldn't sell many if they were designed with heat discomfort in the summer. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
DHS
Silver Member
Chad,
I removed my PT lights. I picked up a couple of square magnets with holes on the center from Mac's. I mounted the PT lights to the magnets. I wired flat 2 way trailer connectors, from Mac's to the light wires from the light switch and to each of the lights. With the lights mounted on magnets I can place the light/s below or above the ROPS or where they we originally mounted. I can use the flat 2 way trailer connector and light switch to connect and control an electric sprayer and other 12 volt equipment without wiring additional switches. This arrangement works good for me.
Dale
I removed my PT lights. I picked up a couple of square magnets with holes on the center from Mac's. I mounted the PT lights to the magnets. I wired flat 2 way trailer connectors, from Mac's to the light wires from the light switch and to each of the lights. With the lights mounted on magnets I can place the light/s below or above the ROPS or where they we originally mounted. I can use the flat 2 way trailer connector and light switch to connect and control an electric sprayer and other 12 volt equipment without wiring additional switches. This arrangement works good for me.
Dale
Gravy
Platinum Member
That sounds like a great idea! Adds another dimension of simple versatility. I'll have to add it to my list of improvements to make...
Gravy
Gravy
