Some GDI engines do better than others. By the time I get into GDI, I think I'll add a borescope to my tool collection though....
Would I be correct in guessing that you are good at changing oil by the factory interval, if not sooner ?
Rgds, D.
Decarbonizing GDI Engines....
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Some GDI engines do better than others. By the time I get into GDI, I think I'll add a borescope to my tool collection though....
Would I be correct in guessing that you are good at changing oil by the factory interval, if not sooner ?
Rgds, D.
Thanks for the 411, and specific recommendations.
One of my gas MPFI engines has over 300k miles on it, and (knock wood) the head has never been off. I'd be seriously irritated with a GDI engine that couldn't make 1/6 of that, w/o major top-end service.
Rgds, D.
I've seen Permatex dielectric grease up here in a spray can - haven't tried that packaging, so can't say if it works better. I do use Permatex dielectric grease, but not in high volume, so I buy it in the small squeeze tube.
While I have plenty of other aerosol options for rust, I still use WD40 once in a while, for its originally intended function. That's one aerosol can that usually has the same Stops When Half Full problem. If the captive straw new head style I last bought is no better, I'll probably stop buying WD...
Rgds, D.
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Di-electric grease is SOP for any and all Molex connectors I open and reseal, the high intensity light bulbs in the pot fixtures in the ceiling of the house and my block heater cord on my pickup truck.
The Fred
Veteran Member
I'm no engineer but I've had a few classes on this. The reversion is designed into the engine management. The air modeling of these engines allows the reversal of intake charge because it helps to fill the next cylinder. More charge on each cylinder filling event means (yup you guessed it) more power.
The downside is the cruddy crap in the intake port and I have yet to see a "spray in" product that takes these deposits away without manual labor.
Today's engines are designed much different than engines we grew up with. Direct Injectors target a certain part of the combustion chamber to burn the charge in a certain way as to reduce emissions and maximize fuel economy. Once we understand this (and I DON'T very well) we can soon realize the gains to be had in economy and power. Unfortunately we are stuck with the piston engine design still.
GM took their 8.1 big block away from pickup trucks because it would not pass emissions, reason being the large displacement per cylinder would not allow for complete combustion of the whole charge. Now that D.I. is here one could expect a new version of the big block that would target a certain area of the piston and allow a complete combustion process.
Someday soon this technology will trickle down to hot rods and retrofits so imagine that old small block or 351 Cleveland that makes more power and gets 25 MPG in your Starsky and Hutch painted up Torino or whatever that contraption was.
I learned awhile ago not to try to overthink the OEMs and modify everything because 95% of the time you just ruin the value of your investment and never make any improvement. Most cars today have planned obsolescence built into them and are not designed to last 20 years like in the old days. The manufacturers, and the govt wants these cars off the road sooner so that newer safer designs and fewer emissions can be achieved.
It's just my take not the holy grail.
I gotta say 11.5 hrs. to clean that Mini intake seems about twice what it should have been.
Fuel injector cleaners do nothing to alleviate the crud in the intake port. They keep the internals of the injector working correctly and I highly recommend treating every 10K miles or so. I've seen a pile of replaced injectors because of this.
Fred
I'd say you're exactly right. He said they had to do it a second time to get it to pass, so they did a poor job the first time and had to do it all over again. Job done twice, double the hours, customer pays for incompetent work.
The Fred
Veteran Member
Those newer Mini engines are a pile for sure. The older ones were simply a Dodge Neon motor, the newer ones (N12, N14) are a total mess.
Class action lawsuit on the timing chains and guides so if you paid for it you will get reimbursed from Mini. Mini just lowered the complete timing chain kit price to $150 bux because they know there are problems.
Sorry to jack, Fred
Class action lawsuit on the timing chains and guides so if you paid for it you will get reimbursed from Mini. Mini just lowered the complete timing chain kit price to $150 bux because they know there are problems.
Sorry to jack, Fred
For those with Ecoboost engines, Ford has not approved ANY cleaning of the intake. No sprays, solvents, or walnut blasting. If you do any of these and it causes a problem (particles causing impeller damage, overheating turbo, washing bearings, etc) your warranty will not cover it. Ford still says there should not be excessive carbon issues due to there design, until 150+ miles. I haven't seen proof of any actual issues. Top tier gas and full synthetic oil is the best preventative until (IF) they come out with an approved cleaning method.
That's one of the reasons I started this thread..... wanted to see who was having problems with what. Some GDI designs are worse/better than others, and agreed, maintenance practices and use-profile will affect most engines.
Rgds, D.