deere 110 tlb overheating

[Fuddyduddy1952]

I assume (???) the new head gasket was correct, didn't block or restrict coolant passages.
Years ago I remember cutting a radiator hose in two, then putting a section of clear PVC pipe clamped in so I could see coolant flow.
Temporary of course. The radiator staying cool is a puzzle.
I assume (?) all of those parts weren't replaced at the same time?
Was it running fine...then noticed a small crack in head gasket...replaced head gasket then overheating started?????
That's key information.

Curious the order of events: was it running fine, temp. ok, replaced head gasket then started running hot?

 

[Hay Dude]

If HG was replaced, then it began overheating, you probably have an airlock.
If the radiator is cool after the engine is warmed up, another sign you probably have an airlock.
If the system is pressurizing and blowing out coolant, you probably have a blown HG.

 

[coqui]

Ran the tractor again. first I tested the cap and therm both ok. then I put the pressure tester on the overflow filler tank,pumped it up to 13lbs. and it held for over 20minutes at which point I started the engine and let it run. the gauge after a brief rise to 15lbs settled at 13 lbs. and stayed there steady.
temp gauge slowly rose to green and after 20m minutes was about 1/4 in the green when the pressure test cap started leaking fluid. I shut down and coolant is bubbling. I could feel the hoses firm up when the thermostat would open. The radiator inlet side would get warm . Next I took off the cap and filled the coolant so I could watch it and started the engine and ran it, worked the bleed screw and burped the hoses until I did not see and air bubbles. Kept running the engine till temp gauge reached past 1/4 and coolant started bubbling,ran a little longer till gauge went to the red. radiator inlet side got hot outlet hose hot. Next I topped off coolant put the cap on and ran till started pushing coolant out again and kept going for a while .Radiator right at inlet too hot to touch. Gauge went to red and could feel hoses go hard from soft and after a while gauge went down to green so I ran up and down hill soon was back in red and pushing coolant out As a last try I took the thermostat out ran again same result. With the IR temp gun not seeing any crazy temps. It will push all the coolant out . I'm running out of ideas. thanks richard

 

[Hay Dude]

What was the max pressure you saw? Head gasket may not have been installed right, or it’s defective, or your coolant passage is plugged.

 

[LittleBill21]

stuff like this is why I bought a thermal camera, you can find the issue in minutes, clogged radiator, collapsed hose will show up like nothing on a thermal camera,

check out my link below with pictures

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I use this camera daily. This is the cheapest price I have seen in a while for it. Figure i throw it out there. I use it as much as my volt meter anymore. resolution is very high, plugs into the phone, and allows you take pictures, highest temperature etc. Really helps quickly diagnose issue...

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[Mike1955]

Ran the tractor again. first I tested the cap and therm both ok. then I put the pressure tester on the overflow filler tank,pumped it up to 13lbs. and it held for over 20minutes at which point I started the engine and let it run. the gauge after a brief rise to 15lbs settled at 13 lbs. and stayed there steady.
temp gauge slowly rose to green and after 20m minutes was about 1/4 in the green when the pressure test cap started leaking fluid. I shut down and coolant is bubbling. I could feel the hoses firm up when the thermostat would open. The radiator inlet side would get warm . Next I took off the cap and filled the coolant so I could watch it and started the engine and ran it, worked the bleed screw and burped the hoses until I did not see and air bubbles. Kept running the engine till temp gauge reached past 1/4 and coolant started bubbling,ran a little longer till gauge went to the red. radiator inlet side got hot outlet hose hot. Next I topped off coolant put the cap on and ran till started pushing coolant out again and kept going for a while .Radiator right at inlet too hot to touch. Gauge went to red and could feel hoses go hard from soft and after a while gauge went down to green so I ran up and down hill soon was back in red and pushing coolant out As a last try I took the thermostat out ran again same result. With the IR temp gun not seeing any crazy temps. It will push all the coolant out . I'm running out of ideas. thanks richard

Richard that’s some excellent trouble shooting. I’ve never run into this type thing but I’ve read about other folks trouble. I’m not into asking questions you don’t know at this point but someone might elaborate. If the pressure was coming from the engine (head) when the thermostat opened would that not allow that pressure to tighten or firm up the radiator hoses? And that heat in the escaping gases probably be hot enough to heat everything up, by it not going out the exhaust. From your diagnostic report I’m leaning toward a head or gasket. This is an unprofessional opinion. I wish you the best and I promise if you don’t quit you will fix it

 

[Fuddyduddy1952]

Please answer this...
If I'm wrong, correct me.
1) tractor was running fine, didn't overheat, all was well.
2) "Head gasket had a small break" was noticed.
3) NOW! IMPORTANT!: Head gasket was replaced and a machine shop checked everything (head & block).
4) after head gasket replacement, that's when overheating issue started (yes/no).
5) at THIS point it gets the "shotgun" treatment...water pump, radiator, thermostat, cap, hoses...everything in the cooling system is replaced (yes/no).
6) at what specific point did it start overheating?????

 

[rScotty]

Ran the tractor again. first I tested the cap and therm both ok. then I put the pressure tester on the overflow filler tank,pumped it up to 13lbs. and it held for over 20minutes at which point I started the engine and let it run. the gauge after a brief rise to 15lbs settled at 13 lbs. and stayed there steady.
temp gauge slowly rose to green and after 20m minutes was about 1/4 in the green when the pressure test cap started leaking fluid. I shut down and coolant is bubbling. I could feel the hoses firm up when the thermostat would open. The radiator inlet side would get warm . Next I took off the cap and filled the coolant so I could watch it and started the engine and ran it, worked the bleed screw and burped the hoses until I did not see and air bubbles. Kept running the engine till temp gauge reached past 1/4 and coolant started bubbling,ran a little longer till gauge went to the red. radiator inlet side got hot outlet hose hot. Next I topped off coolant put the cap on and ran till started pushing coolant out again and kept going for a while .Radiator right at inlet too hot to touch. Gauge went to red and could feel hoses go hard from soft and after a while gauge went down to green so I ran up and down hill soon was back in red and pushing coolant out As a last try I took the thermostat out ran again same result. With the IR temp gun not seeing any crazy temps. It will push all the coolant out . I'm running out of ideas. thanks richard

Nice test & writeup. I'm glad you tried it with the cap off and also without the thermostat. At this point I would leave the thermostat out. It isn't helping with the problem.

Now I'm running out of ideas too. The problem is we don't really know for sure that coolant is circulating, and I have never figured out how to prove to myself that pump/block/radiator circulation is really happening....not with any kind of easy test done from the outside.

It sure seems like there is a hard obstruction somewhere. So maybe it is time to divide this into two parts. The first being the exterior part of the circulation system and I know of no better way than to start pulling hoses off so untl you can prove to yourself that the flow is circulating from the bottom of the radiator, up through the block into the top of the radiator, and out the bottom of the radiator again. I believe you should leave the thermostat out if you do this.
Hopefully you will find a blockage in that exterior system somewhere.

Because if the you know for certain that the external system is circulating without a blockage, that only leaves the block itself...which would be disappointing.
In the block, there are multiple passages and no way from outside to selectively block them. So it is possible for fluid to circulate through some of the block passages and not through others. From the outside that would be impossible to tell. Things that would cause that would be a wrong head gasket or some hard blockage like a rag left in some other passage - either one causing a hot spot which probably would also give you the results you see.

Hopefully the problem is external.

But first of all I think the easier path is that you need to prove absolutely that the basic exterior system is circulating.

rScotty

 

[coqui]

Agree with the asessments. Going to set up a flush using a tank and electric pump without the radiator.setup should also allow for a quick engine run to see the water pump performing. The tractor was overheating before the head repair. Mechaenic came out twice to double check head bolts and just for sport we had him install new injectors. Just light duty we are able to use the machine a bit and major projects being all done the 110 will be findind a new home. Thanks for the thinking.

 

[arrow]

A new water pump but is it working? Sometimes new means rebuilt also.

per.
Once put 3 on before a good one.
I guess it depends on the source.