Determining how badly my barn has settled/heaved

[kenhar]

I think they used a water level on the pyramids. It will work on a barn.

 

[aircommuter]

Who knows how level they are today? Does the ground freeze over there? Lots of variables.

 

[aircommuter]

I think they used a water level on the pyramids. It will work on a barn.

That was then. They had lots of cheap help too. I suppose they had plastic tubing from a big box store too!

 

[charlessenf]

If you learn to use one, a Lok Level, is a handy tool, that takes up zero room, takes no tripod, just a steady hand and shovel, and a helper on the rod. Not as precise as a laser or real builders level, but the old farts did a lot of rough work with them. The biggest advantage of laser is the single person operation over a builders level.

Working Alone. Differences in elevation between two points can be measured by going through a series of steps. (1) The fieldworker needs to now the height of his or her eye above ground level. This can be done by standing against a wall, facing it, sighting horizontally, and then marking the wall at the cross hair. The distance from the mark to the floor is one's "eye height." (2) The fieldworker stands at a low point of known elevation (a benchmark or datum) and sights a level line through the hand level. (3) The point on the slope at eye height is then noted, usually in reference to a rock, twig, leaf, etc. The fieldworker walks to that point, stands on it and repeats the process. (4) This is done until the fieldworker's eye height is greater than the point whose elevation is being calculated. (5) At this point, the vertical distance between the point where the fieldworker is standing and the point whose elevation is desired is then estimated. (6) The sum of all the eye heights sighted and the last estimate are added together and then added to the elevation where the process began. Obviously, this procedure can only be used in determining elevations higher than a known point. Work must progress up-hill.[example]

Hand Leveling with a Stadia Rod. This procedure can progress up-hill or down-hill, but requires a second person. [example] It is also the same process professional surveyors use in determining elevational differences [example]. Several steps are involved and detailed notes are recorded in the field notebook. For purposes of illustration, we'll progress from a point of known elevation (a benchmark, BM, or datum) on top of a hill and progress to a lower elevation. One strategy [example, scroll down] involves: (1) One fieldworker, the Rodperson, holding the stadia rod vertically on the benchmark, while the person with the hand level stands at a point further downslope, but at a point where eye level is higher than the benchmark. A sighting is taken on the stadia rod and recorded in the notebook as the "+ sight." This figure is then added to the elevation of the benchmark and recorded in the Fieldbook as the "HI" for Height of the Instrument. If the workers are concerned with horizontal distances, a measurement is recorded from the BM to the instrument person. (2) The Rodperson then moves the stadia rod to some point further downslope. This is called a "turning point," or simply a "turn." The person with the hand level turns around 180 degrees, but continues to stand on the same spot, and sights on the rod. A reading is taken and recorded in the Fieldbook as the "- sight." This figure is then subtracted from HI and recorded in the Fieldbook under the column "Elev". The distance from the instrument person to the stadia rod is measured and recorded, if the job calls for it. (3) The process is repeated however many times as necessary until (4) the stadia rod is placed on the location for which the elevation is unknown, but desired.

A second strategy is similar, but involves the person with the instrument knowing hers or his eye height. This strategy involves (1) The person with the instrument standing on the benchmark at the top of the hill. [example, scroll down] He or she records the eye height in the Fieldbook as the first "+sight. This is then added to the known elevation and recorded in the field book as the "HI." The Rodperson then sets the rod at some point down the slope. A reading is taken on the rod and recorded in the Fieldbook as the "-sight." This figure is then subtracted from the HI and recorded in the Fieldbook under the column "Elev." If called for, the horizontal distance from the BM to the stadia rod is measured and recorded. (2) The process is then repeated, (3) as many times as necessary, until (4) the stadia rod is placed on the location for which the elevation is unknown, but desired.

Field Techniques

www.la.utexas.edu

Or

AND!

 

[BrianSum]

I've got a 30 x 25 dirt floor barn that sits on a concrete foundation on 3 sides. Framing is 2 x 6 construction. There are two sets of 8 x 8 posts rising from the front wall and midway back to carry the load across 3 door openings across the front. All 4 posts terminate in the dirt floor. I'm not sure how deep either the posts or the foundation walls go, yet. Looking at the front of the barn, it is obvious from door misalignment that the foundation has either settled or the posts have heaved. The center is higher than the two sides. Not sure about front to back yet. I will either need to jack up the barn walls along the foundation, or drop the center of the barn at the posts. To better understand the task ahead, I want to lay out elevations, at the 4 corners ground level, as well as above in the lofts and along the posts. Thus my question: how do you take accurate elevation readings? I don't own a ziplevel altimeter, or even a laser level. I'm happy to invest modestly in equipment (renting equipment nearby doesn't appear to be much of an option). Would love to hear how experienced "surveyors" would tackle this.

I have to install a driveway with a pipe and some fill. I got a used self-leveling level for $200, and I'll sell it when I'm done. You can get new for $250. Lazer levels start around $350, but you don't really need the small increase in accuracy. The best thing about a lazer level is one person can use it. That is the only way I would deal with a foundation. Set it up twice to double check your readings. You can use the rod (make sure to get one) to get the higher elevations by measuring from a known elevation below. I'm not a surveyor, but a Professional C. E..

 

[coast40]

LASGOO Laser Level Self Leveling, Green Cross Laser Line with Vertical and Horizontal for Picture Hanging and Construction, Magnetic Rotating Stand and Portable Case Included, Green https://a.co/d/9EhOTUt

The Lasgoo only shoots laser out one side. I got a cheap one off Amazon that has a beacon on top that beams all the way around horizontally and a vertical line on the ceiling, floor, and walls. Some use AA batts and some might have a built-in batt. Set and forget like this: https://www.amazon.com/OMMO-Laser-Level-Leveling-150ft-Line-Horizontal-Magnetic/dp/B09W93PJRT

 

[BoylermanCT]

Ditto on the water level. We used one to build our 30x40 pole barn to set the 2x8 floor girts. When the building was mostly done, we hired a contractor to pour the concrete floor. He set up a very expensive laser level and confirmed our floor girts were dead on.

 

[olenjohn]

Build an earth dam across the open side of the barn then flood the barn floor with about a foot of water. The water will be level. Measure up from the water to whatever point you want to check.
Since you’re in New Hampshire, I’m going with the post have heaved from the frozen ground each winter. It may only come up a fraction of an inch but over the years it will show.