Determining how badly my barn has settled/heaved

[nyone]

Laser levels seem reasonably priced but the altimeters are quite spendy.

Unless your getting a 360* laser with a reciever there nearly useless for exterior work.

Since it's a barn I suggest you just start with a string line and string line level. Easy to set up and about $12 in tools.

 

[NoTrespassing]

I wonder how they kept level when building the pyramids

Aliens

 

[jaxs]

If you don't want to invest in a laser level, make one with a garden hose and a couple lengths of clear tubing, a water level. Cheap and doesn't need batteries
View attachment 799552

I've used water levels like this with good results but invested less than $50 in a Zircon WL125 and it has been worth every penny.

 

[jaxs]

You have to let it set for a day or so to make sure the air is completely gone. The air will stick to the side of the hose in small bubbles initially until it dissipates.
My dad used to say the oldtimers would leave the water in it for years and would get extremely upset if someone dumped the water out.

The $50 Zircon WL125 isn't effected by a few bubbles and spilling some water doesn't change settings or accuracy.

 

[newbury]

I've used water levels like MossRoad mentioned since about 1964. Usually aquarium tubing, 3/8" ID, a jug (at first a glass jug, then about the early 1980's I upgraded to a used plastic milk jug) and a dark food coloring dye.
Doesn't work below freezing temps.
For long runs might need a larger ID.
Works around corners and going under door frames.

 

[MossRoad]

I've used water levels like MossRoad mentioned since about 1964. Usually aquarium tubing, 3/8" ID, a jug (at first a glass jug, then about the early 1980's I upgraded to a used plastic milk jug) and a dark food coloring dye.
Doesn't work below freezing temps.
For long runs might need a larger ID.
Works around corners and going under door frames.

My father showed me this stuff when I was a kid. Thanks Dad!

I bury a 8' stick in the ground a couple feet and marked where I wanted the top of the floor to be and call that my reference board. That doesn't move throughout construction, or you're screwed. For a building addition, I just use the side of the building.

Fill the tube with colored water and leave a couple feet of empty tube on each end.

Tape one end of the tube to the buried board about 4-5' off the ground.

Tape the other end of the tube to a 5' stick. (5' is no special number, it's just easy to carry around a 5' stick)

Hold the 5' stick next to the buried stick so that the bottom of the 5' stick is level with the floor mark you want on the buried board.

Let the water settle in both ends of the tube until the levels are, well, level.

Mark the level of the water on both boards next to the tubing on both ends with a sharpie. Now they are always level.

Now you can walk around with the 5' stick and move it up or down until the water in it is level with the mark on the stick. You can pound a stake in the ground and set the 5' board end on the top of the stake, then keep tapping it in to achieve perfection.

If you want a 1" or 2" slope to the floor for drainage, you can put 1" or 2" (or any measurement) on the side of the stick near the level mark and use it like a ruler.

Works great. As mentioned, around corners, too.

Only problems:

If you drop the end of the tube too low, or lean it against something and it falls over and loses water, you'll have to refill the tube and recalibrate it per above.

Same thing can happen with temperature changes because with tubing can stretch/shrink/expand/contract, so check it in the morning and several times a day. Super easy to do. You can use a small spray bottle to fine tune it if you have to, or just overfill it and blow into the tube to remove access water.

If you're careful, and fill it with the siphon method, it should eliminate any air bubbles naturally. Just check the tubing for air bubbles before you use it.

Give it a try sometime. It's kinda fun.

 

[MossRoad]

I suppose we could use anti-freeze and it would work in winter, but the vinyl tubing might get stiff. I don't like to do construction in winter! But I may have to some days.

 

[NoTrespassing]

I suppose we could use anti-freeze and it would work in winter, but the vinyl tubing might get stiff. I don't like to do construction in winter! But I may have to some days.

I use a water level when setting up above ground pools. Neighbors were pretty impressed how even the water was around the top of the pool.

 

[MossRoad]

I use a water level when setting up above ground pools. Neighbors were pretty impressed how even the water was around the top of the pool.

Yep. That would work great. Especially if your liner has a geometrical pattern print, like a tile-look. Then it's really important to get it to look level. If it's solid or pebble print you can cheat, as no one can tell unless the measure from the edge down to water surface.

Hey, it must be the deep end!

 

[Skyfair]

Thanks for all the great comments thus far. Keep them coming. Some of you asked for pictures. Note how doors no longer meet evenly. Barn sits on foundation wall on 3 sides; front and middle of barn supported by 8x8s sitting in/on

dirt floor. Note also separation of post/beam at top of 2nd level. Once I determine whether to raise sides or lower center of structure, I'll cut bottoms of posts and set footings into a poured concrete floor. Barn is only 20 years old. As we purchased property 2 years ago, not sure of how foundation was poured, what's under them, etc.