Diagnose a bottom plow

[Farmwithjunk]

thanks for the manual Chilly.

Took the plow to the New Holland/Kubota dealer today and he said the bolt pattern wasn't anything he'd seen before and the old share didn't match up to anything he had in the back. He suggested trying Tractor Supply. They didn't have anything and didn't list any 12" plow parts at all in their printed catalog.

The JD dealer took my share into the back and came out with a 14" JD share that fit the 2 bolt pattern on the old share and said to just cut off the back 2". For $15 I thought I'd give it a try. Think it'll work? Thought I'd mark where the 3rd bolt would go and see if the machine shop could drill and countersink it for a full head plow bolt or a regular countersink bolt. I doubt any of my drills could cut hardened stuff and I know my countersinks would just round off.

Here's a pic of them bolted together to show the difference in the profile. --Ian

Don't forget to send the parts man a Christmas card. What he said is golden.

I'm a fanatic about my plows. It's became almost impossible to find correct 14" shares to fit a Massey plow. They either sell "clipped wing" shares (really a 12" share) or else 16" shares. I get the 16"'s and cut them down.

You can see the difference in worn v new, especially at the very point. That's what will draw your plow into the ground.

Do you have a JD part # for the share you found?

Also, you need what is known as a "clipped head plow bolt" as opposed to a conventional "plow bolt". Most shares will use these. Regular plow bolts have a much larger head.

Here's a link that shows a clipped head bolt. They're available at TSC, or that Deere dealer should know what you need. http://www.glaserbolt.com/detail.aspx?item=CLPLOW-17&id=651

 

[Haywire]

Do you have a JD part # for the share you found?

"14-3 RS". The tip is bent back at an angle. He said it is done that way to get the plow to suck down into the ground quicker.

Re the clipped head. That's what I got for the factory holes. If I have the machine shop drill and countersink for the 3rd one, it would be a round hole instead of flat sided so I'd need a non-clipped bolt for it.

Ian

 

[Farmwithjunk]

"14-3 RS". The tip is bent back at an angle. He said it is done that way to get the plow to suck down into the ground quicker.

Re the clipped head. That's what I got for the factory holes. If I have the machine shop drill and countersink for the 3rd one, it would be a round hole instead of flat sided so I'd need a non-clipped bolt for it.

Ian

OK...I'm following you now....

 

[bullbreaker]

Ian
That last pic gave me a better look at that plow.
Your plow,depending on who sold it:
Is an World Agritech(Ohio),International brand(not IH) now Hawkline,Worksaver etc.
Worksaver Discontinued Products
scroll down to mplp-112 and you will see it on Worksaver page with parts list breakdown and manual.
I have had for years their Inter. MP-114(full size single bottom 14"w/coulter wheel).As others have stated tons of parts still around for them.
Have not used mine much but when I have it has performed great.Paid $530 new for mine with a notched coulter wheel assembly.Mine is built real heavy duty.

Boone

 

[Sprucegum]

Thanks for the manual.
When I bought my tractor(Mahindra 3525) the dealer threw in a Fergusen plow to sweeten the deal. I had no clue how to set it but this time I will get it right :thumbsup:

 

[tcreeley]

In your first photo with your plow level and mounted above the ground you had your lift arms and top link slanted steeply upwards. My guess is that when you dropped the plow into the ground the front tip of the plow would be angled below the back of the plow by quite a bit. That would make the plow dive in . Someone said you want the plow so it rides level while it is plowing- not tilted. When it is lifted out of the ground- then it should have a tilt. Figure the depth you are plowing at and set the blade top link so that it runs flat at that plowing depth. The plow will pull itself into the ground if it is running level at its plowing depth. Pay attention to the sideways tilt. Remember one tire travels in the furrow just plowed so the tractor is not level. That tips the plow sideways. My 2 stage plow has a twist in the bar to compensate. You may want to lower one of your lift arms.

Is your top link too long?

 

[tractorfacter]

Here's the pics. Looks like the frog under the share is bent back and there is a good bit of wear on both. The previous owner guessed that it was an older Howse but really didn't know. What do you think? --Ian

I live in AZ most ground here is hard and dry. If that is the case in you loc.? Most plows in good cond. or not don't want to go in the ground. I normally wind up ripping first. Also a good rain or irrigation after ripping makes plowing easier and not so hard on yyour equipment either.

 

[Haywire]

Ian
That last pic gave me a better look at that plow.
Your plow,depending on who sold it:
Is an World Agritech(Ohio),International brand(not IH) now Hawkline,Worksaver etc.
Worksaver Discontinued Products
scroll down to mplp-112 and you will see it on Worksaver page with parts list breakdown and manual.
I have had for years their Inter. MP-114(full size single bottom 14"w/coulter wheel).As others have stated tons of parts still around for them.
Have not used mine much but when I have it has performed great.Paid $530 new for mine with a notched coulter wheel assembly.Mine is built real heavy duty.

Boone

Thanks... I called them up and they have 5 shares left. They don't intend to restock, so when the replacement parts they have on hand are gone, that's it. The moldboard has some wear on it, so I asked about that and it's already NLA.

Good to have a manual for it in any case. Since I have this JD part altered to fit, I don't think I'll order the correct part. They're asking $43 + shipping and I seriously doubt I'll ever wear this new one out.

I thought about breaking out the welder and tacking the nose of the frog to the share so it doesn't get bent back the way it was before. It's not going to get replaced ever again anyway.

Ian