Oil & Fuel Diesel Oil Change

[VA_Joe]

Just one qualification - more important than pressure is for oil to flow to where it needs to. A higher viscosity oil may not be able to get through the holes it needs to (i.e. bypass the smaller holes in favor of either the biger ones or the pressure relief valve).

I rebuilt a Saturn engine a few years ago that had this problem with the timing chain tensioner. It was a design defect that was resolved in later revs of the engine. they made the hole too small causing the tensioner to sieze up - the end result was eight bent valves. The new timing chain kit had a tensioner with a larger hole in it.

Joe

 

[cp1969]

</font><font color="blueclass=small">( I agree that using this oil will work. <snip> I would not use this oil in my power washer. )</font>

If you choose not to use an oil that you agree 'will work', that is your prerogative, but it doesn't seemed to be based on irrefutable logic or experience. It appears to me that your decision to not use this oil is based on ...'it isn't the very best thing available, and I want the very best' which is a common characteristic of engineers. They always have to have 'the best.' Bear in mind, I am an engineer, too, and have to fight this 'gotta have the best' mindset, too. I have seen engineers agonize for weeks, tabulating data in spreadsheets, trying to decide which barbeque grill is the 'best' to buy. There are times when it's necessary, but engine oil, I've concluded, isn't one of them provided that you follow the mfgs recommendation. Nor is a BBQ grill.

And keep in mind, I am not trying in any way to convince you to use dino oil. I know that is a lost cause. The only reason I chime in is for the benefit of other, possibly less experienced folks, who follow these conversations and need to hear hear what happens when you don't run 'the best' oil in your engine. I offer my experience and that of many others, that there are few, if any, adverse consequences of running just what the manufacturer recommends and change it on schedule.

Of course, I probably ought to realize that anybody who reads this particular forum (myself included) is probably somewhat **** already and is looking for confirmation for a decision he's already made, not information with which to make a decision. So there is probably no amount of evidence I could offer that would convince them that using high-dollar oil is, in most cases (not all), simply an unnecessary waste of money.

 

[VA_Joe]

cp1969,

What you said makes good sense. The problem is that we have somehow confused the choice of engine oil with religion. Whether it be cars or motorcycles (and I guess now tractors) - we somehow get into these debates on which oil is best that, in the grand scheme of things, don't matter much provided that the manufacturer specified oil both used and changed on a regular basis.

If one does not trust that advice then they should go synthetic. Although expensive - these oils will work through even the harshest of conditions (especially if one is not using a liquid cooled engine). I say this because sometimes piece of mind is worth the price.

Joe

 

[gsxr1100]

Cp-

First off let me say this, I never stated that Amsoil was the best; never have either. I always state, “for the price it is the best oil out there. If you can show me a better oil that performs that same, gives better protection, is cheaper, etc I will switch.” There, that was my stance on it! J

Also since working an engineer I do not take things for face value unless it is a military stuff. Even in my schooling I never took things for face value. Next, the engineers I work with, over 10,000, never say I want the best. Most times that are as cheap as the next guy since they “think” they can make it better”. Then would un-dent a coke can to make it usable. .

So far on this thread there was no “consequences” or effect of running this or that. I have done long drains for years (since the mid 1990’s) and never had a problem. Also ran dino for years with no problem; but utilizing very short drains. Then I started testing on my 5.0 mustang & things switched after that; that was the end-all for dino. And I think you where the one who said, “I have had my share of premature engine overhauls and catastrophic failures, but not one of them was related to oil quality.” I agree, I have never seen and oil failure due to long drains, dino or synthetic.

I personally think 90% of people have never tested oils since if they did they would clearly see what the delta here; in TBN, Ca, ZDDP, Boron, VI, Noack, etc etc. Not starting anything just stating I can post here till I am blue in the face (better there, done that) and unless you test the oil, all the engineers or people in the world are only guessing. People see the price (2X to 4X more) then dino and say yea right. AS I stated before it comes down to two reason why people do not use it; 1) price is an aissue or 2) they do not understand the oil and it “features”.

But you are right on your last pargraph. We can have these debates and I can post real oil data on what has this and that, but most really do not care. They are taking the oil can for face value or using it since they used it for years. The old 486 PC’s worked fine too along with the old VCR and corded phones; but here are old school. Then again if people are comaring this debate to religion, well that is an issue itself. Then again it people think this debate is hot, or “somewhat **** already” debate oil filters, or air filters or bypass filters, gear fluid….This is about round 1 out of 1,000. Even the old debate on Moly vs Boron can take pages and pages.

 

[gsxr1100]

I agree, but my gsxr bike states change the oil filters at 7,500 miles intervals. Figure that out.

Also they state a 5w-30 or 10w-40 would work and well, after using some oil for some durations, they shear out of grade pretty quick. So far there are only a select few bike oils that are shear stable.

And yup, I agree, for the $5 per qt for Amsoil new bike oils is a drop of the hat. What is $18 for oil every year and another $8 for a filter??? I could go longer based on used oil tests, but I would have to do another complete year and I think the OXD, NOX, TBN, TAN and fuel would be any issue.

 

[deminin]

I live on the fringe of some of the best farm country in Central Missouri. Some of these farmers have 100's of thousands invested in their big diesel equipment. All of the farm stores in the area stock Shell Rotella T 15w40 and Wix oil filters as their primary stock. They claim they sell more of this combination than all other brands combined. I figure if the farmers trust their massive investments to Shell and Wix, thats good enough for me. So far, my little B2910 purrs like a kitten.